eric sprado Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 6013 has it's place in my shop just because of its lack of penetration. I have an old axe head that was split right through the eye. Old friend who taught me welding tricks 40 years ago sewed it up with 6013 and you can't see where!!!! It,of course,is NOT to be used where penetration is required. Just a different rod for a different use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted July 23, 2010 Share Posted July 23, 2010 Junk rod? Seems like a pretty strong choice of words. It has it's place in fabrication, does what it was designed to do; nothing more, nothing less. How does that make it junk? Is a 16 ounce hammer "junk" because it can't draw out 4" stock like a little giant power hammer? 1 lb hammers have their place in the shop too. When I weld something I want it to stay welded therefore I chose an electrode that will perform in such a manner. If you do the weld test as described with the different electrodes you will most likely feel the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmeineke Posted July 23, 2010 Share Posted July 23, 2010 When I weld something I want it to stay welded therefore I chose an electrode that will perform in such a manner. If you do the weld test as described with the different electrodes you will most likely feel the same I wasn't trying to be hurtful with my comments, just pointing out that 6013 has it's place and that it's not junk. The things that 6013 rod were designed to weld will stay welded just fine when done properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted July 23, 2010 Share Posted July 23, 2010 I have used 7018 and mig on my fire pots with no problems the first one is made is now 10 years old. Lets look an welding rods and what the lettering stands for. E stands for electrode the first 2 numbers 60 or 70 is the psi tensile strength the weld can withstand that is 60,000 or 70,000 most metal is rated at 50,000 to 60,000 psi so your weld is stronger than the metal the third number indicates welding position 1all positions flat, horizontal,vertical, and overhead 2. horizontial, and flat 3. old term flat only 4. flat, horizontial,overhead and vertical down and the fourth number is the current used exxxo-Dcrp only exxx1 ac and dcrp exxx2 ac and dcsp exxx3 ac and dc exxx4 ac and dc exxx5 dcrp only exxx6 ac and dcrp exxx 8 ac and dcrp (dcrp) Direct Current reverce polarity (dcsp) direct current stright polarity So I hope this hepls and the type of welder you have will determine the rod you use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted July 26, 2010 Share Posted July 26, 2010 Nope, 7018 is stronger, and easier to get an X-ray quality weld with. It is used at higher amps, and is a 'slow freeze' rod. It just **will not** bridge a gap, and can't be used for open root or poor fit-up full penetration welds. For that, you need 6010 or equivalent 'fast freeze' rod. 6010 followed by 7018 has been a tried and true pressure vessel and pipe industry standard for decades. O.K., so now a firepot is a pressure vessel? If you have a HAZ and think using 6010 instead of grinding off the heat affected zone is O.K., it calls everything else you say into question. We are not talking about code issues here, we are taking about welding a fire pot. Can't anybody admit that this advice is B.S., 6010, 6011, 7014, 7018, 7024, and a host of other rods would be more than adequate, even if poorly applied, wet, welded uner water, with the wrong polarity. By the way, with a little more practice, you may find that you can weld poor fitup with 7018, if you are good enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 ya it all bs I have welded with mig wire and stick they both hold up this is not structial or critical its just a fire pot whats the worst thing that can the whole thing melts and ends up as a blob of xxxx at your feet. And if you are wareing the proper protive clothing you will walk away just fine rember that Blacksmithing is a dangerious indever. If you can not weld good than you should just bolt on some pipe and pour a hearth. What ever works for you. this should stir the pot LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 Nothin` but net on that shot Francis! As the famous shoe folks say"Just do it".No welder,then bolt it.No tools or bolts then borrow the neighbor`s shovel and dig a hole in the ground. If it fails then let us know and we will avoid goin` down that road too.If it works then post it(with pics) and we can all add it to the "College of Smithing Knowledge" that holds class right here. Top drawer advise right there.Thanks for being the voice of reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phatdaddy Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 I have made several firepots using 1/2" A-36 mild steel. I used 7018 rods to weld them up. I've never had a problem with my pot and the folks that got the other one's love them. I used 7018 because they are much smoother and can get x-ray quality welds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragons lair Posted August 19, 2010 Share Posted August 19, 2010 I have made several firepots using 1/2" A-36 mild steel. I used 7018 rods to weld them up. I've never had a problem with my pot and the folks that got the other one's love them. I used 7018 because they are much smoother and can get x-ray quality welds. So now we need X-ray quality smooth welds inna fire pot? I sure am going to hate tell one oldtimer his 20 yr old pot with the outside corners that could be used as files(blobs/holes)Said he used AC and got his rods from a scrap yard. Seen a lot of pretty welds fail and a lot of goober welds still holding strong. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted August 19, 2010 Share Posted August 19, 2010 You know what hasn't been mentioned yet? Drill the edges and bolt them together, possibly using angle iron or bent flat straps to take up the edges. Avoid the whole welding argument entirely. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 You know what hasn't been mentioned yet? Drill the edges and bolt them together, possibly using angle iron or bent flat straps to take up the edges. Avoid the whole welding argument entirely. Phil Just buy a cast iron firepot from Centaur and get forging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
double_edge2 Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 its a fire pot? go down to supercheap and get the cheapest mild rods sized to suit the house power/welder, (i use 2.4, 2.6) v the joins with a grinder and give to it. root pass and grind out any stuff ups, and 3 runs + till its full....and a bit. i use 6mm, 10mm and 1/2", along with anything else i find scrap, never had one come back. works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragons lair Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 You know what hasn't been mentioned yet? Drill the edges and bolt them together, possibly using angle iron or bent flat straps to take up the edges. Avoid the whole welding argument entirely. Phil Phil, Have ya ever noticed bolts subjected to heat tend to be impossible to remove or they snap. Welds don't have to be pretty in a fire pot (mine do)Best thing is a drop in pot with welded corners No fuss to repair. Ken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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