June 29, 201015 yr Author I have all the tar removed under the anvil and up about 2 inches on the sides from the bottom. The real place it stilll is is between the top of the anvil flange and the ring. No real way to get that out. I do have most all removed from around the anvil up top so it should just be able to drop. The anvil is directly against one side on the lower edge so any movement will instantly show.
October 22, 201015 yr Author Wouldnt ya know... So the hammer is on its new foundation, I made new wedges for the sow and lower die, wired it up (with a switch!) and got it running..... About 2 mins into it(just as the metal came up to temp) the brushes in the motor finally gave up the ghost. They are spring loaded and very easy to get to/replace IF I can find something like them. BAH!
October 22, 201015 yr Wouldnt ya know... So the hammer is on its new foundation, I made new wedges for the sow and lower die, wired it up (with a switch!) and got it running..... About 2 mins into it(just as the metal came up to temp) the brushes in the motor finally gave up the ghost. They are spring loaded and very easy to get to/replace IF I can find something like them. BAH! That's what I refer to as an "added enjoyment feature" ;)
October 22, 201015 yr I recon you've got great toys there, I'm just green with envy. good pics too, Thanks.Pity about the 'extra'chalenges though. Ian
October 22, 201015 yr Brushes are usually easily modifiable; so if you can't find spot on ones get them a bit larger and grind them down---messy though!
October 25, 201015 yr Author I was only able to do a little drawing on one billet and the anvil has not moved. I assumed it would take more then that. Looks like the brushs can be found/made without to much issue. Nice as I wanted to save that old motor if possible, looks great on the machine. Its a 5 hp 1725 so if I have to change it, it would be no problem. It certainly came to life as the oils got into all the require places. It was quite noticable as it happened.
October 30, 201015 yr Author Now I do feel stupid! I was searching around for brushes for this motor when I ran across this video. This is exactly how this motor was working when I got it. I had completely forgotten. So for the last several times we have run it the brushes were stuck locked on and ground themselves away. Completely my fault for not checking the lockout. I'll bet they would have last me years. At least its a fixable mistake.
October 30, 201015 yr I have a #8 and a 300 Beaudry, I like the both very much, but I like the slip belt on the #8 better than the clutch on the 300. Can anyone tell me what proper foundation is for these hammers. Right now they are on 3/4'' plate on 5/8'' rubber mat on 3/4'' wafer board on 5'' concrete, the #8 is starting to wiggle a little (after 9 years) I think the scale is building up under the anvil. Also the key that holds the sow block to the anvil base is stuck, it has been hammered on both ends till you can not tell witch end is the small end. Does any one have any ideas on how to remove it? I have made a few old motors work by putting a sheet of 80 grit paper on my drill press table and carefully rubbing a brush that is too large on it till it was down to size. Your old brushes might still work if you get them cleaned up so they slide freely in the brush holders. Chuck
October 30, 201015 yr Author This is a slip belt. We are sitting on 2 ft+ of concrete which is sitting on a foot of 5/7 crusher. I would assume it quite a bit undersized but certainly better then the 6" beams it was spiked to in the dirt.
October 30, 201015 yr Chuck- there is a little factory literature on Beaudrey foundations here http://newenglandblacksmiths.org/power_hammer_info.htm Scroll down about 1/4 of the way.
October 30, 201015 yr Author Exactly. But when first it arrive and we ran it a bit staked into the ground everything was fine, I simply forgot thats how it ran. Now its all pretty sitting up on a raised foundation (the floor is getting infill).
October 31, 201015 yr be sure and post some pics when its up and running, also can you tell me the dimensional measurement of your ram?
November 5, 201015 yr Author Rick from the Streetcar Museum in Baltimore located a NOS set sitting on a shelf at an old motor repair shop in the area. He dropped them off yesterday but it will be next week before I can remove the motor end and oil it up so it disengages correctly. $40 seems a reasonable amount to pay for fixing this problem.
November 5, 201015 yr $40 is a steal for anything that helps get you up and running! Cant wait to see this one finished, kind of the big brother to mine.
April 7, 201214 yr Author So with the motor mechanics rebuilt and cleaned this beast is finally alive. We ran it 2 days during the hammer In with no complications. The anvil is still stuck in position with shims on the dies to get then close to flat. After the event we tweeked it more and I am actually considering shortening the stroke as it is now hitting very hard. Keeping the break tuned in is a bit fiddly only because there was a fair amount of surface rust on the break surface. As it wears in I have had to adjust a fair amount. I am looking to getting some time in on it this weekend.
April 19, 201412 yr Author Update on this hammer. Old Motor fell to dead short last year and was replaced with a modern 7.5 hp in the same location. During our hammer-in this year we were forging out a large billet of pattern welded material and the anvil worked loose and laid into proper position! The hammer honesty gets very little use but it is nice to now have it setup correctly.
September 27, 201411 yr Author This hammer has found a new home with another forum member. Hopefully he will keep this thread alive as he rebuilds the hammer and gets it back to work!
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