kerisman Posted April 25, 2010 Posted April 25, 2010 I just picked up an old post vise, the last of the basic three tools I need to get started smithing at home. This vise was caked with dirt and had a wasp nest in the end of the screw box! I wish I knew when it was made, where it came from, etc. Perhaps you could tell me something about it from these photos -- anything at all, I've got nothing on it. Based on photos I found online I think it is of American manufacture, not English. It has 5.5" jaws and is around 42" tall. I guess it weighs around 70 pounds. I don't know why there's a bolt on the leg, but it won't be there for long. The bracket wraps around the top of the post and around the spring bar. If not held in the vertical position, it will slide down to the pivot joint, which prevents the jaws from opening and closing when the handle is turned. Is this normal? When I mount the vise, I need to make sure the bracket stays at the top of the post. I'm planning to mount it into the ground outside the garage. From what I've heard, it should be okay to leave it under the stars if I spray it with WD-40 from time to time, same as the anvil. Right? Any info is appreciated! Karl Quote
Dragons lair Posted April 26, 2010 Posted April 26, 2010 The bracket has 2 wedges to tighten it on the leg(drive one one way the other the other way) The ears on the bracket sit on the bench or post. Mount in the ground? If your not using a post or bench(welded to a rim/tub of concrete) replace the bracket with a U bolt to hold the spring. Have one just like it No clue to age or mfg. Ken Quote
ThomasPowers Posted April 26, 2010 Posted April 26, 2010 Most likely made from wrought iron, possible the jaws were steeled. When mounted the bracket will be at the correct height for use---that's how you mount it! The leg should go into something solid as it is supposed to transfer the force of hammering into the floor rather than into the bench it's mounted on. If mounted on a steel post you could weld a stout piece of steel on it with a hole drilled in it to accept the tenon on the bottom of the leg. with the bulb resting on it to transfer the force. When mounted to a bench you would drill a hole in the floor for the tenon---or make a plate for it to engage in. Outside: the screw and the screwbox and the pivot are the things you should worry about. Use a thicker oil than WD40, a non detergent 30 weight for example. If the screwbox has a hole in the end you may want to plug it to prevent water/wasps from entering. Quote
Bentiron1946 Posted April 27, 2010 Posted April 27, 2010 Looks pretty good, only a little wear on the center threads so that ain't so bad. They are handy to have. :P Quote
dablacksmith Posted April 27, 2010 Posted April 27, 2010 only advice ide add is grease for the threads a good coating if its to be outside .. other than that it looks like a nice post vice maybee put a shed roof over it to protect it a little? Quote
kerisman Posted April 27, 2010 Author Posted April 27, 2010 Okay, thanks to all for the tips. To mount it, I think I'll try to find a steel post (not sure what to use; I'd like something that has an "old blacksmith shop" look as opposed to something modern-looking) and bury it in the ground under the gravel on the "shop side" of the driveway (half of garage area). At the top of the post will be a thick steel plate to serve as a table. I guess I'll look for another piece of steel to use as the load distribution pad, drilling a hole that the tenon will rest on. Someday I'll move it to a real shop Sound reasonable? ThomasPowers, as for the lubricant, do you mean motor oil, SAE 30 or greater? Why non-detergent? Is this also recommended for my anvil and fabricated steel stand (and anything else too heavy to move inside when I'm not forging)? dablacksmith, a roof would be nice, but the area I'm planning to use is right outside the garage door. An anvil and vise I can deal with, but I'm trying to keep things fairly tidy. I've been pondering one alternative spot, but that's an issue for another post... Quote
kerisman Posted April 29, 2010 Author Posted April 29, 2010 I'm adding couple of good tips (along with the good tips mentioned already) that I learned from a friend. If I remember to post another photo after the vise is cleaned up, I will... 1. Kerosene can be used as a solvent/finish for the vise 2. Lithium grease is a good choice for the screw Quote
pkrankow Posted April 29, 2010 Posted April 29, 2010 I'm adding couple of good tips (along with the good tips mentioned already) that I learned from a friend. If I remember to post another photo after the vise is cleaned up, I will... 1. Kerosene can be used as a solvent/finish for the vise 2. Lithium grease is a good choice for the screw Clean all the grease out before adding more, kerosene is good for this. Suspended particulate is highly abrasive. Lithium, axle, bearing . . . quality machine grease, good. Phil Quote
ThomasPowers Posted April 29, 2010 Posted April 29, 2010 Detergent oils are designed to hold crud in them---like water and wear particles. Now your car has a special filter to remove stuff from the oil. Your vise does not. Non-detergent oil is better for this usage. I really like the guy who plugged and put a zerk on the end of the screwbox to keep crud out and allow for lubrication *and* have the "flow" be toward the open end... Quote
kerisman Posted April 29, 2010 Author Posted April 29, 2010 So it's a good idea to plug the end of the screwbox... I should have left that wasp nest where it was! :) Quote
Frank Turley Posted June 4, 2010 Posted June 4, 2010 Just a guess that the vise might be an old Iron City brand made in Pittsburgh. Look on the movable leg opposite what is shown in the picture and look for a stamp, a six pointed star with IRON CITY inside. http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of Blacksmith Schools Quote
Naz Posted June 5, 2010 Posted June 5, 2010 I think this is the iron city punch you guys are talking about. Hard to say on the vise since it's only half-punched but it's clearer on the hammer. Naz. Quote
firefarm39 Posted June 6, 2010 Posted June 6, 2010 I think Frank is correct, it looks like an Iron City to me too. They are good vices. I would consider putting it on a moveable stand to get it out of the weather when you are not using it. Quote
kerisman Posted June 6, 2010 Author Posted June 6, 2010 Thanks! I can't see the mark right now; it may be buried under the dirt. I'm planning on cleaning it up with some kerosene, then I'll look again. firefarm39, I've been thinking the same about mounting it -- For now, a movable stand is most appropriate for me. Can anyone recommend a simple and portable mounting system? Portable Post/Leg Vise looks pretty nice (perhaps with bigger wheels). Quote
kerisman Posted June 26, 2010 Author Posted June 26, 2010 I finally got the vise cleaned up. Kerosene and lots of scraping took care of layers of dirt (I suppose an angle grinder with a flap disc would have made it easier). I sprayed White lithium grease onto the screw and in the screw box. Now it's time to come up with a portable mount. Those who guessed it to be an Iron City vise were absolutely right. A nice logo was hidden under the grime. Quote
Yance Posted July 9, 2010 Posted July 9, 2010 I finally got the vise cleaned up. Kerosene and lots of scraping took care of layers of dirt (I suppose an angle grinder with a flap disc would have made it easier). I sprayed White lithium grease onto the screw and in the screw box. Now it's time to come up with a portable mount. Those who guessed it to be an Iron City vise were absolutely right. A nice logo was hidden under the grime. Nice vise. When you clean up your next one try one of those knotted wire wheels for your angle grinder, not a flap disc. The brush cleans really good and leaves a nice smooth patina finish, kinda "gun metal" gray. The "shed" my vise is under is one of those rectangular plastic buckets that bulk clothes washing detergent or cat litter comes in. I use nickel anti seize on the screw. Quote
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