One Heat Tong Blank

[brianbrazealblacksmith]

Brian- thanks for the claymation video it really shows the steps better for us slow guys

Hey, Clinton, you're welcome. It sure was alot faster to do than drawing it on paper.

[clinton]

Hey, Clinton, you're welcome. It sure was alot faster to do than drawing it on paper.

ya i see what you are saying the only bummer is you can not save the video file or at least i cant figure out how to save it. computer in the shop or clay in the house-- hmmm

[Timothy Miller]

So do you cut off the blank and forge weld on a handle? Or draw out?

[brianbrazealblacksmith]

So do you cut off the blank and forge weld on a handle? Or draw out?

I draw out the reins. With 2 or 3 inches of the original stock I will draw out a 12 to 18 inch long rein. I prefer a light and springy rein over a dead piece of milled stock welded on to the tongs. If I were going to weld on a rein, I would still forge it out so it was springy and lively, so welding on reins is usually a poor choice to make.

[Fe-Wood]

Thanks Brian!
Now I have 2 reasons to get some clay. I have been told that is an excellent way to practice hammer control and work out volume as well as the process required. Watching your video just proves how effective it really is.

One point I wanted to be sure newer smith note- look how sharp the edges of the anvil are. Gotta be carefull of cold shuts on that one :D

[brianbrazealblacksmith]

Thanks Brian!
Now I have 2 reasons to get some clay. I have been told that is an excellent way to practice hammer control and work out volume as well as the process required. Watching your video just proves how effective it really is.

One point I wanted to be sure newer smith note- look how sharp the edges of the anvil are. Gotta be carefull of cold shuts on that one

Yeh, clay is a great time saver. We used it all the time to communicate with when I worked with Alfred Habermann.

Yes, I do have some sharp edges on my anvil, but I worked those tongs over the rounded edges of my anvil. You should always use the rounded edges when making tongs.

[Timothy Miller]

I have many older pairs of tongs with forge welded handles that serve me well. I was suggesting this because if you don't feel like beating your brains out and don't have a power hammer this could save you a lot of pounding. A lot of people dont have the stamina to draw out 5" or 6" of 3/4" round to 3/8" I work full time as a smith mind you. When I make tongs I usually forge them from solid with a power hammer. I use a stepped block like Clifton Ralph and refine on the anvil. a whole set takes about 10 or so heats that includes punching the eye shaping the jaws and riveting. I have gotten to the point where I don't need many tongs anymore.

[brianbrazealblacksmith]

I have many older pairs of tongs with forge welded handles that serve me well. I was suggesting this because if you don't feel like beating your brains out and don't have a power hammer this could save you a lot of pounding. A lot of people dont have the stamina to draw out 5" or 6" of 3/4" round to 3/8" I work full time as a smith mind you. When I make tongs I usually forge them from solid with a power hammer. I use a stepped block like Clifton Ralph and refine on the anvil. a whole set takes about 10 or so heats that includes punching the eye shaping the jaws and riveting. I have gotten to the point where I don't need many tongs anymore.

I only use 2 to 3 inches of material, not 5 or 6 inches, and 3/8" is a bit too heavey and lifeless to my liking unless I need a tong for very heavey work like you may need for power hammer work. I usually draw my reins down to 1/4", and I don't beat my brains out doing it. It's a matter of choosing the proper dies to draw the material out with, just like Clifton Ralph would "feed the baby" under flat dies. I'll do something similar on the anvil.

[JNewman]

Nice work Brian makes me wonder why I need my power hammer. OH yeah, you hit harder than I do and that looks like hard work.

I go in first with the half face blows over the near edge to make the bit and then over the far edge to form the bearing surface and the start of the reins. Making the angle at the change of section at the bottom of the bit is important to prevent a weak point.
I make 13/16'' dia 8% smaller than 3/4'' sq... I only said it was 'a bit' small! The next step up is 1'' dia and that's a bit big.

I use 3/4 round 1045 for most tongs that I make and find it big enough for most tongs that are sized for hand work. I do regularly make some that start as 1" dia and I did just finish some tongs that I had to start with 1.25"x 4"x 30" but they are hard enough just to pick up by hand.

The method I use most to make tongs now days is to offset the 3/4" round then flatten the eye and draw out the reins, but the offsetting is easier under a power hammer.

[Timothy Miller]

I only use 2 to 3 inches of material, not 5 or 6 inches, and 3/8" is a bit too heavey and lifeless to my liking unless I need a tong for very heavey work like you may need for power hammer work. I usually draw my reins down to 1/4", and I don't beat my brains out doing it. It's a matter of choosing the proper dies to draw the material out with, just like Clifton Ralph would "feed the baby" under flat dies. I'll do something similar on the anvil.

Im not talking about you I am talking about most people who blacksmith. So you are talking about a fairly light pair of tongs here.

[Timothy Miller]

I use the same tongs for hand work or under the power hammer. I don't have any sort of dividing line in my mind between hand or power forging.

[jimbob]

HELP. I cannot get the video to work ...

[JNewman]

I use the same tongs for hand work or under the power hammer. I don't have any sort of dividing line in my mind between hand or power forging.

I have yet to use my 3" and 4" tongs for hand work, but have used them quite a bit for power hammer work. I have 3/4 and 1" tongs that are fine for hand work and light power hammer work but if I were working a long heavy piece I would have to be careful with them under the hammer, I have sprung bits that are 3/4"x1/2" while straightening out forgings under the hammer.

[billd]

I second the "help" I cant get the video to work.

[Grafvitnir]

Brian, this was one of those things I was waiting for you to make a tutorial or something Thank you very much.

I know this must be a dumb question (Remember, there are no stupid questions, just stupid people. Mr. Garrison, South Park ) but how do you draw the reins? I tried different ways using clay but always got coldshuts where the shoulders were created and joined the tong blank to the rest of the stock. I know I need a lot of practice, but maybe there is a way to do it easier.

Thank you again.

Rubén

PS I don't know if I may use the "S" word I used while quoting South Park. Please remove it if I'm breaking any posting rules. Sorry

[brianbrazealblacksmith]

Thanks, JNewman, I believe you cleared that one up.

Grafvitnir, you need to be on rounded edges to avoid the cold shuts. If you don't have rounded enough edges, go to your horn. The biggest problem with the horn though is that it does not have the best backing compared with the body of the anvil.

[Tim McCoy]

ya i see what you are saying the only bummer is you can not save the video file or at least i cant figure out how to save it. computer in the shop or clay in the house-- hmmm

You should be able to put the link for the videos into your "Favorites" section of your browser as a link. That's what I had to do ... great videos and it'll be wonderful to review them.

[Kenny O]

Thanks very much for sharing your knowledge, Do you plan on teaching in the North West at any time in the future?
While watching the video I noticed that the anvil doesn't move a hair, how is it attached to the earth?

[NickWheeler]

Brian-


That is just plain awesome!!!

Things like that remind me how much I have to learn. Thank you very much for sharing!



-Nick-

[brianbrazealblacksmith]

Thanks very much for sharing your knowledge, Do you plan on teaching in the North West at any time in the future?
While watching the video I noticed that the anvil doesn't move a hair, how is it attached to the earth?

2Dogs, I don't go anywhere unless I can work, and I will go anywhere there is work to do. I welcome any opportunity to share what I can, but I don't just venture off unless I'm invited.
That is an 88 pound Henry Wright anvil mounted to a tripod stand that is anchored to the concrete slab in my shop. The concrete slab will move a bit when I'm doing heavy hammering.

NickWheeler, I hope these posts help reduce the learning curve. I wish I would have been exposed to more information earlier in my career.

You all are very welcome, and I hope you can take this farther.

[Travis Covington]

For those that want to download videos Real Player has a free upgrade that will download any video online. You can also burn them to dvd or cd for use on the tv.
Travis

[billd]

To jimbob I solved my problem playing the videos by installing an updated flash player. Brian thanks for a great video.

[jimbob]

To jimbob I solved my problem playing the videos by installing an updated flash player. Brian thanks for a great video.

Thanks Billd that solved my problem also ...

[Hofi]

another way to one heat tong blank is to use flat steel in this case 5/16x3/4''
Hofi

[Rob Browne]

Brian,

Thanks for that video. I have been "working" on tongs for a while and this arvo I knocked out the best set I've ever made in about 30 minutes thanks to your video that made it absolutely clear.

Thankyou