Timothy Miller Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 I have a problem with oily exhaust from my Say-Mak. When I first got my hammer about 2 years ago I had it vented inside the shop. This proved to be a bad because it vented oil mist into the shop and made me feel sick. I ran a rubber exhaust hose the kind used on boats outside the shop this has worked well. The hammer is in daily use and there is now a oil stain on the side of the building and oil contaminated soil under the exhaust. Is there a way to avoid this. I have been using oil as prescribed by Tom Clark with the oilier valve set as he told me to do it. If I turn down the oilier the hammer runs hot so using less oil is not an option. I don't like the fact I am polluting and I fear one day the town might come down on me for it. Where I live people get ticketed for dumping oil even small quantities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilentBob Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Go to Walmart and get a washable, the reuseable type air filter build a frame to hold it and a drain tube to a reservoir. The filter should stop any oil from escaping. I’ve never tried this, but it should work. Test it first, you may have to double it up if the exhaust is too strong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 There are a few options for an air/oil separator. What kind of CFM and pressures are involved here? One possibility is having a bucket or barrel with a lid, the in will be a tube going to the bottom, then filter material, and the out at the top. Filter material can be a simple as window screen loosely crumpled into the space. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Good suggestion PK. I used to use a 55gal drum with the pipe going to the bottom with a bunch of holes in the pipe. Then I filled the barrel with drill turning (they don't pack down like small chips) and packed them in good. The oil condensed on the chips and collected in the bottom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWHII Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Good suggestion PK. I used to use a 55gal drum with the pipe going to the bottom with a bunch of holes in the pipe. Then I filled the barrel with drill turning (they don't pack down like small chips) and packed them in good. The oil condensed on the chips and collected in the bottom Thats a great idea. I have a Sayha that has the same problem. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 I worked with Tom for a while, and he suggested runnining a pipe straight up from the exhaust high enough so it would not escape and would run back down in the machine so there was not as much oil loss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 I have used my hammer for 8 years. I worked with Tom from the begining of his assocation with this hammer. You are opening the oil valve way too much. My valve is open about 1/8 turn. As long as you have an oily film on the ram you have enough oil. If you use the hammer for extended periods it will warm up. Of corse it should not smoke or smell hot but friction and compressed air will create heat. Inside the cover on top of the rear cylinder there are 2 check valves if one or both of these has come off you will get excess oil in the exhaust. You can check this by removing the mufflers turn on the hammer hold yuor hand over each pipe one should blow the other suck If not you have a problem with the check valves.One way to test for enough oil is to hold a clean piece of paper over the exhaust with the hammer in use if you have a LIGHT mist you have enough oil. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Peacock, need to fill in the last variable: how long do you hold the paper there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 I have the oil valve set to 1/8" of a turn. But sometimes I do give it a touch more because my hammer runs a bit hot from time to time and bogs down mostly in hot weather. In fact my piston once seized at this oil setting. I called Tom and he told me this had happened on one other new hammer but did not elaborate. All in all I am happy with this machine. I like the 55 gal drum idea. Where to get 55 gallons of swarf though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 I have the oil valve set to 1/8" of a turn. But sometimes I do give it a touch more because my hammer runs a bit hot from time to time and bogs down mostly in hot weather. In fact my piston once seized at this oil setting. I called Tom and he told me this had happened on one other new hammer but did not elaborate. All in all I am happy with this machine. I like the 55 gal drum idea. Where to get 55 gallons of swarf though? got a lathe? Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 I do 14.5 Southbend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Turn up something for the chip. Select your feed/speed/depth to create a heavy curly curl that tends to stay attached to itself instead of breaking off. (alright this may be silly) Or call up a machine shop and ask as you probably need close to 200# to fill the whole barrel. I think a layer or two a few inches thick supported on screen or wire mesh with air spaces in between would do the trick and weigh a whole lot less though. out to exhaust layer of chip screen air air air layer of chip screen air air air in from hammer. sump drain (optional, you can disconnect the "in" and put a vacuum pump down as needed.) The idea is to slow the air down for a while and provide surfaces to stop the oil, so filling the barrel entirely should not be necessary. Heck, an empty barrel will stop some of your oil, so you can fill over time as you make appropriate chip doing work. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 Turn up something for the chip. Select your feed/speed/depth to create a heavy curly curl that tends to stay attached to itself instead of breaking off. (alright this may be silly) Or call up a machine shop and ask as you probably need close to 200# to fill the whole barrel. I think a layer or two a few inches thick supported on screen or wire mesh with air spaces in between would do the trick and weigh a whole lot less though. out to exhaust layer of chip screen air air air layer of chip screen air air air in from hammer. sump drain (optional, you can disconnect the "in" and put a vacuum pump down as needed.) The idea is to slow the air down for a while and provide surfaces to stop the oil, so filling the barrel entirely should not be necessary. Heck, an empty barrel will stop some of your oil, so you can fill over time as you make appropriate chip doing work. Phil I understand the concept. No way am I going to spend a couple days making chips. I have to eat is there anything I could just buy off the shelf? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Machine shop - turnings - free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 Machine shop - turnings - free. Sadly here on long island where I live there are not many machine shops left. The ones that are here are turning some exotic stuff mostly for aerospace. They tend to sell their scrap. I don't know who would have that much steel swarf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonjic Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 You could just set the 55gal drum up, and put a bath towel over the top of it to catch the oil mist. Then slowly fill with swarf (as per plan 'A'!) as and when its available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Larson Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 I use the shavings in a bucket idea to coalesce the oil in the exhaust (there isn't much with my machines) and to muffle the sound. A steel-pack muffler. Quieting down the exhaust is attractive, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilentBob Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Perhaps a combination of nakedanvil’s & brianbrazealblacksmith’s ideas would be the easiest and most productive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 I work in a swiss machine shop - we use these on our lathes: http://www.mistbuster.com/ (check out some of their .PDF manuals for better descriptions). Might be able to use a similar concept on a hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Sorry Grant if the hammer is making nearly full strokes 20 or 30 seconds is long enough. As fr as turnings I get some from big plumbing shops. pipe threading makes really nice curly chips. If you take a container for them to dump there pan in they are happy to help you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Say Tim, Why bother with the drill chips? The idea is to catch the oil! The only reason I can see for filling the barrel whith anything is perhaps to quite down any noise. If the pipe just dumps into a sealed container that should be enought to solve your problem. Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 How could it dump into a "sealed container"? How would it "exhaust"? Put your mouth over the end of a bottle and blow. How much air can you blow into a sealed container? We're dealing with a mist, the chips give a labyrinth with a large surface area for the oil to condense on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 (edited) Sorry Grant if the hammer is making nearly full strokes 20 or 30 seconds is long enough. Huh? Long enough for what?????????Oh, the paper, gotcha, thanks. Edited February 19, 2010 by nakedanvil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 I originally suggested some crumpled window screen. Leave most of the barrel empty so you can fill with chip later when the chip is free. Even an empty barrel will catch some of the oil mist. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youngdylan Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 not sure how much it costs in bulk but how about wire wool instead swarf? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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