Would this work?

[Haasum]

I can get a piece of I beam, and possibly a fork lift tine from the local scrap yard. I was just wondering, if I were to get some would it be better to get some I beam (a foot or so) and some fork lift tine (a foot or so) and weld them together to form a pseudo-anvil? Would it be better to just get some of the fork lift and use it on its own? What about two 1 foot sections of fork lift tine welded together?

Just curious to know what you all think would be the best option to go with. I can't afford a "proper" anvil, but the scrap yard has metal for $0.15/lb so I can get a fair amount for very cheep. (130 lb's for $20 give or take some lb's for tax)

[Mark Emig]

If you can't afford a proper anvil-you can use almost anything. The main thing is you want to have as large a mass as possible. Basically an anvil is just an inertia block-you want as much of the hammers blow to go into the metal you are forging and not transmit through the piece. If you do use an I-beam weld a plate between the outer edges the inhibit any flex. If you use a fork lift tine as the horn weld something down the length of the underside for the same reason. I have seen photos of smiths using almost anything for an anvil-large industrial chunks of metal,rocks etc.
Good luck
Mark Emig

[Mark Emig]

One other quick note-if you can get ahold of "The Modern Blacksmith" by Alexander Weygers (check the library), there is some good ideas for "make-do" anvils and such in it-instructions on how to make a railroad track anvil. Check it out before you purchase anything. Check into the California Blacksmiths Association-you might find someone who will help out a new smith with some cheap tools.
Mark

Edited October 24, 2009 by smithingman
stupid mistake

[creek]

I believe at one time on this site there was some pictures of an anvil made from a forklift tine. It might have been a blueprint, not sure.

[Haasum]

I'll have to take a look into the book, I have read some other books on blacksmithing at Barns 'N Noble but I don't recall that one.

[clinton]

I made an anvil out of heavy plate brian and ed brazeal have been doing this for years. I found a piece at the scrap yard that is 2 1/2 inches thick 10 inches high and 22 long prob weighs 125 lbs or so. you stand the plate on its edge. what you do is take a torch with about a # 3 cutting tip and shape the edge to make your bottom die smooth it out with a grinder and make a stand tripod works good they sit flat better than four legs i will try to attach a pic. the attachment is not working i can email to you if you want

Edited October 24, 2009 by clinton

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

You may look into standing the I beam on end, and welding the tine across the top. The surface only has to be as big as your hammer face. With the I beam on end you get more mass under the hammer. Various horns, etc could be welded onto the sides. Check the scrap yard for a large diameter shaft to do this with, as it will be more mass than an I beam. Pipe could work too as you could fill it with concrete, packed sand,etc.


It doesn't have to be fancy, just as long as it works.

[evfreek]

Hi Haasum. Hello from the Bay Area! The next CBA Spring Conference is in Ferndale, which is really a long ride. Also, you may find that the anvils selling at the tailgates are kind of pricey, especially those in the 100-150 lb. range. The conference after that I think will be in Vista. A little closer, but the other way.

You can get a long way with some pieces of heavy steel. Make sure you have a lot of mass directly under the hammer. Horizontal RR tracks flex a lot when you hit over the edge. They work a lot better set vertical. Do you know how to weld an I-beam to a RR track or forklift tine. A little challenging, but I definitely think that welding is the way to go for homemade anvils.

Clinton, I noticed that your location is Salinas. How much per pound did you pay for that piece of plate. The place around here sells for 65 cents per pound, and there are not many anvil sized pieces. Another place has RR track, but they charge $1.00 per pound for that "cuz people use it for anvils".

[Haasum]

I personally, do not know how to weld, I am planning on taking some classes though. Judging by the answers I got, I was planning on, if I got a few pieces to weld, taking them to the community college where I attend, and asking if one of the welding instructors would weld it for me, using it as a demonstration piece if possible to again try to lower the cost of the service.


Welding the tine across the top with the I beam on end sounds like a good idea, but I have to wonder wouldn't that be pretty top heavy? Also, what about give on the ends of the tine, or would you suggest the amount of tine to barely extend past the I beam, if at all?


My biggest problem, really, is the fact that I am an unemployed college student. Which is why I am trying to get as much as I can for as little as I can. Trying to find a job but that's not going so well.


Vista is much closer to where I am, about 500 miles, and 8 hours closer, although hopefully I'll be transferring schools up to Humboldt state next fall. Which puts me at the wrong end of the state again. xxxx this state for being 900 miles long.

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Done on end it would need some sort of a base attached to keep it upright. An old truck rim would work.

You only need enough tine to cover the I beam, since that would be bigger than your hammer face. You could overhang some of it, and put a hardy hole into it. Overhang is also nice if you are scrolling some pieces to be able to wrap it under the heel. A stable base would make that possible. Remember that the anvil's top will only be about as tall as your fist when held at your side. If you get to choose the part of the tine you get, I would go for the upright section that attaches to the forklift. It is thicker, and not tapered. The college should help you out. When I was attending my local JC I had stuff welded, then when I was taking the welding/blacksmithing courses I welded stuff for other folks. If they have a machine shop class you may be able to get a horn turned for the anvil. `

Edited October 25, 2009 by BIGGUNDOCTOR

[Brandon Graham]

you could also try welding two or three pieces of forklift tine togethe then one on top for a face that should give penty of mass then attach a base on that

[Haasum]

I was also thinking of something like that Brandon.

I am not sure if we have a machine shop class or not I will have to look into it. Getting the section closest to the lift sounds like solid advice, I didn't think about it being thicker right there.

I can easily get a nice big wood round to use as a base, would it be better to use the I beam on end method, or welding a few tine pieces together and setting it on the wood round?

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

By using the on end method you will get a lot more useful mass under the hammer. With the tine section on the round I think that you will lose a lot. Of course this all depends on what you want to make. Knives do not need a heavy anvil whereas someone making plowshares might. Small hammer small anvil, big hammers/sledges big anvil.

The only part that needs to be hard/tough is the face where you hit. Everything below that can just be plain steel to add mass.

Get the forklift tine, and use the section that you want. Cut the rest up and trade/sell it to further your endeavors.

Edited October 25, 2009 by BIGGUNDOCTOR

[Haasum]

Well for the time being at least, it would just be a hobby, something to do whenever I had free time, so as to what I would be making specifically, I don't really know. I would just practice the basics a lot, make sure it is something I actually enjoy doing, and try to perfect the basics before I take on something bigger.