I have some rods that are 7018 48018 3/32. They came in a plastic wraped box I just opened, I tried them on the welder. I had just used some other 7018's and wanted to finish up the job. When i tried them all I got was a few yellow sparks. Half the time not even that. The welder is an old Canadian Tire machine made for them by unknown sources, it was given to me well used and has worked off and on if I keep trying. I'll get a buzz then an arc, 6013 work ok but i keep getting that buzz and no arc. The new 7018's just won't work at all. Help!

Since you just got done using some other 7018, I would say it is the welder that is the problem. 7018 runs best in DC/reverse polarity. Check ALL of your connections, for corrosion, looseness, check the ground connections, check for bad leads, etc.... Sounds like you have an intermittent connection going on somewhere.

Thats what I was afraid of. This welder has a ground line and a stick line, the power is an ajustable lever with another lever to lock the amp lever. The amp lever moves on its own sometimes,but how would it reverse polarity? Using what I have till a deal comes along. Its a Mastercraft Welder.

Edited September 10, 200916 yr by sfDuck
add a pic

Do you know if that machine is AC only or DC only? If it is AC it is hard to weld 7018. You would need about 30% more amps than the same diameter 6013. If it is DC, they are usualy set up for reverse polarity, but you should be able to change the polarity either with a switch or by swapping the cables.

My guess is that it is an AC machine. If so, next time buy 7018 AC.

Do you know if that machine is AC only or DC only? If it is AC it is hard to weld 7018. You would need about 30% more amps than the same diameter 6013. If it is DC, they are usualy set up for reverse polarity, but you should be able to change the polarity either with a switch or by swapping the cables.

My guess is that it is an AC machine. If so, next time buy 7018 AC.

Whatever the machine is designed for if you have it set at an appropriate current for the rod you should get more than just a few weak sparks out of it. Check to see your current setting isn't drifting off, and that the indicator is actually registering changes in current settings. If those are good chances are you have loose or corroded internal connections. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Bill

I just took a closer look at the photo. On the upper right face it says ac only so polarity is a not issue. Also, along with checking the internal connections you might want to consider replacing the cables.

Bill

Thanks Bill, I checked the internal connections a couple of months back, but ya never know and its a cheap fix thanks. And yes your right it is AC only.!

May want to check and brighten ALL the connections. I lost power to the electrode one time when the negative wire attachment to the negative clamp became corroded. Check the negative clamp to the table connection and remove the dirt, oil, etc. You can get better connections by making an extension clamp going from the negative clamp attached to the table, to the work itself. This way both the table AND the work are negative. Placing the clamp as close to the welding as possible will help.

And check your primary curcit (power cable) maybe the plug and or leed is damaged.

Also, is the power supply working ok?

HA HAHHHHHH I got the problem solved !!!!! With the purchase of a Lincoln AC 225 Tombstone , 3 yrs old .........for $160. I was saving up for one and found a bargain. Also the rods had a lot of moisture in them even fresh a new box, but they're sitting in the shop oven (toaster oven) at 200 degrees. Things work real nice now.

A lot of these cheap, transformer type machines have a thermal overload switch also. Your duty cycle is probably about 10-20% at the settings your using. It may have gone off. Also an electrode with an ionized salt in the coating (6011,6013,7024,7018 AC) is needed to stabilize the arc.. just my .02.......Kerry

Edited September 15, 200916 yr by KNeilson