Muttt Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 (edited) Well, that welded cable I showed in the "Cable Won't Weld" thread came out really nice. I finally got a chance to grind that tanto blank down to the roughed out knife. I have it down as far as I want to go with the rough sanding. It's time to heat treat, but I have read that if you edge quench when you heat treat cable damascus it will ruin the way the the damascus looks when you acid etch. So, any suggestions on how to treat this particular piece of metal???? I was thinking taking the whole thing to non magnetic then do a full dunk in oil for the quench. Then, after cooling, take the whole thing back to "straw" and call it a day and start the final finish. Here is what I did so far with the grinder. Not sure how long to make it though ................. Gonna wait to heat treat till I school myself. I'd hate to ruin this piece of metal after all the work I put in it so far. Mutt Edited September 14, 2009 by mod07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christopher P. Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Differential heat treat will affect the crystaline structure (the hard edge vs. the soft back) and is the essence of hamon in Japanese blades... that frosty transition zone between the two. It will not affect the physical structure per se, but when etched, the hard steel will react differently than the soft, giving you different etching rates, or inconsistency. Personally I don't see this as "ruining" a piece, but if you value the consistent look of the cable over the frosty hamon visible after a high polish, then by all means full-quench. Good luck! - Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucegodlesky Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 With that style and profile, I would do a full quench. Also, Get sandpaper and a paintstick and smooth out the grinding patterns. The etch will show much beter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 I'd look into draw filing that blank before going to abrasives! Lots of work to be don *before* heat treat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unkle spike Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 I agree with the draw filing, it works wonders for taking dips and gouges out. Hold file in both hands perpendicular to the blade, and run it back and forth up and down the blade. Good Thread on it:http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f52/wow-draw-filing-6388/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muttt Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 Thanks .... i don't know why, but for some reason I had the idea that you did the filing and sanding after you heat treat. Because the blade blackens up again and needs cleaning after heat treating ....... or am I wrong. Can someone explain a little?? Mutt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamj Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 from what i have done you want your blade as close to finished product before heat treat because after heat treat it is much harder and takes way more time to sand or file also you have to watch how hot you get it after you heat treat as not to take to much hardness out if you were sanding. after heat treat you will just have to lightly sand to get rid of any scale and oxcides plus from my past knifes a nice smooth piece doesnt sclae as bad and it is easier to remove. hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christopher P. Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 In addition to what adamj said, an even surface, properly prepared, will have less stress, present fewer opportunities to warp, and be -much- easier to clean post-hardening. Hardening, done right, won't scale up much at all, and most of what you get may well pop right off in the quench. Use a reducing fire (bushy flames coming out the front of the forge) and keep the temps low, so you don't overheat. Ac1 is a lot cooler than most people think, barely incandescent in normal light... not glowing orange. There's quick and dirty, and then there's thoughful and deliberate craftsmanship. Most of us who've been doing this awhile have found that putting in the time to do each step properly saves a ton of time down the road in fewer correction, fewer failures, and far better work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muttt Posted September 11, 2009 Author Share Posted September 11, 2009 (edited) Well ..... I did some draw filing. I wasn' happy with the results though. My files seem kinda rough for draw filing. When I was done, I had tons of parallel lines to deal with. Although, the draw filing did take out some of the woopdeewoo's in the blade and did get it alot flatter. But, I then needed to take out the 4 inch angle grinder again. I have 60, 80 and 120 wheels. I use the 60 and 80 for roughing and shaping. I use the 120 when I am smoothing things out. I went ahead and put the thing in until it was all non-magnetic and then did a full quench in peanut oil (you were right, no scaling ..... just a bluing of the metal). The quench went really well and it didn't warp or twist at all. I was afraid it would since it started as cable and may have memory left in it. But, I stayed really straight. Anyway, I lightly used the angle grinder/sander to take off the blackening enough so I could temper it. I slowly took it up to a straw ...... but, it was really really hard to get straw for some reason and I ended up with a kind of light blue. But, I am thinking that may not be so bad since it is so long and thin. It seems to have a little flew in it (I put some pressure against it to see of it would bend or spring back and it flexed without bending). When I was done with the 120 sanding with the angle grinder, I took some 220 and hand sanded for a while. It is starting to get a nice shine going. But, I still need a little more with the 120 on the grinder because there is still some stock that needs to come off in the bevel. I kept it thick so it wouldn't twist. Once I get it a little more bevelled and closer to and edge I will stop. I ordered some polishing disks for the 4 inch grinder from harbor frieght. They are 60, 80, 120, 220, 400 and 600 grit. I think the 400 and 600 will help me polish. I will then take 600, and 800 and hand sand. Here is how it turned out so far. I did file out a bevel near that tang (not sure what it's called .... where the blade edge stops) and filed down the tang considerably. I also filed the tang so it is thinner than the blade so when I slide on a brass fitting it will come flush. Anyway, it's closer to finished. Just needs some fine shaping and sanding. Comments welcome. Actually the more the better. This is my second knife .... so, the more knowledge I can compile the better. Mutt Edited September 14, 2009 by mod07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christopher P. Posted September 11, 2009 Share Posted September 11, 2009 Well done! For knife #2, you're learning fast. That transition where the edge stops, is often called a "plunge cut". The area just behind it is the "ricasso", before you get to the tang. For a little draw filing and an angle grinder, I really am impressed. It's hard to maintain control with such tools, so I give you full credit for determination and fine motor skills. As you continue grinding, try to bring the rest of the edge up to meet the bevel you've established at the plunge, and you'll have one nice-looking knife there. Congratulations, and good luck with the rest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBrann Posted September 11, 2009 Share Posted September 11, 2009 I use a hand held belt sander in a vice to do some of my grinding. I alkso hand sand with 400 and 600 paper, I buy the wet/dry sanding kind. A little dip in water and a paint stirrer, go to to town, takes out the fine scratches, and helps the paper cut longer. Remember to change the angle of sanding or grinding for each step in grit, so the coarser scratches are not hidden by finer ones. Cliff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamj Posted September 11, 2009 Share Posted September 11, 2009 thats looking great cant wait to see it finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humphry Posted December 24, 2010 Share Posted December 24, 2010 This was a great thread. I'd considered posting a question on hardening and temper of cable damascus. this served me well enough to start. Do mostly blacksmithin myself, but enjoy playing with knife making. Thanks guys Humphry :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.