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(DIY) Swage: Spoon hollow ?

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Hi all,

I am trying to make some cutlery, and almost immediately ran into a spoon problem

  • Author

I did look at the step-by-steps at anvilfire...
My concern about the hollow used in Project 49 is that it will probably straighten out when I have used it a couple of times..
I was hoping to make one with a bit more supported mass without endless grinding ;-)

The wooden ones would be nice to try once though..
I have not read that one ;-)

Smithy

Someone once posted a really good method for making a spoon swage that I have on my "to do" list.

They had cut the outside portion from a large black-iron pipe elbow and welded a shank or base to it.

I've thought about forging up a swage block from thick enough iron so it could lay flush on my anvil, but just haven't taken the time. Especially when a shallow hollow in the end grain of a block of Oak works so well. Yes, it does slowly char deeper in use, but a replacement is quick/easy to make. So the time to make an iron one just hasn't been a priority.

Mikey

  • Author

Mold....
That's a nice one... There is a little language barrier for you. :rolleyes:

The Partial iron pipe elbows are brilliant.

Thanks Don

Don, thanks for the link. I did not "get it" untill CurlyGeorge's second picture. -grant

I lucked out a few years ago and found a riser block laying in the bushes next to a building. the block measures 6-inches square by 4 inches thick, and weighs in at 25 lbs. using a drill press and lots of grinding with my 4.5 incher I managed to gouge out a ladle pocket, a spoon pocket and a round depression, for starters.

17104.attach

17105.attach

I've seen them but how well does ductile iron castings hold up to a beating?:confused:


As far as I know, all my swage blocks are cast iron, and one is old enough that most of the indentations seem to be for forging iron tires and tire bands. None, even the oldest blocks are missing any pieces that I can see.

Keep in mind that you are forging hot iron which is pretty soft. I would be surprised if you would have problems with a cast iron bottom swage unless your stock is not hot enough or you are using a sledge hammer for forming spoons. :D

I would suggest taking a small piece of flat stock between 1/4" and 1/2" thick and hot forging it to the shape of a spoon swage using a wood block as your form. Then mount the resulting form on a hardy stud, or piece of angle iron and use that for your spoon swage. In the past, when away from my swages I have just used a handy piece of wood to form leaves and spoons. For something more permanent then either a forged bottom swage or a purchased block is nice to have. Those little souvenir 3" by 3" swage blocks sometimes have grooves and indentations that are useful. I have even considered grinding a spoon shape into one of those souvenir blocks, as it should only take a few minutes to modify one of the indentations using a high speed grinding wheel (http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f35/non-name-brand-grinding-discs-etc-7195/index2.html#post82562 ). :D
  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah, I don't think he is using concrete for anthing other than holding a good size round steel anvil.

  • 2 weeks later...

Here is an easy way to make spoon swages. I made one from a 1 1/2 inch black pipe elbow for an eating spoon. Then use a 3 inch black pipe elbow and made one for a serving spoon. Just mark out and cut them out of the heel of the elbow. I use mine a lot, and they work GREAT!!! :D
Eating Spoon Swage - Blacksmith Photo Gallery
Serving Spoon Swage - Blacksmith Photo Gallery
Completed Serving Spoon Swage - Blacksmith Photo Gallery
I also made one from an old safety cap for an oxygen bottle.
Ladle Swage - Blacksmith Photo Gallery
These work GREAT and are a bunch cheaper than a big swage block. Good luck.

i always use wood and wet it with lots of water once when i forged some all around round balls i burned a dent to fit it in a wet wood block and when with the ball bashed a piece of thing mild plate into it wood hole to get the same size for the rest of the balls

DC

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