Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 Oh, you're THAT Patrick! Hey Pat, Grant Sarver here. Glad to see you on the forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrick Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 Hey Grant. I knew it was you all along since you've used the nakedanvil moniker for such long time. I am still looking forward to you coming out here for a visit. Patrick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 Every time I come out there you leave! Consulting jobs have dried up for a while, I guess. Yeah, I'd like to get together. How's 'ol Clifton doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrick Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Grant, I haven't seen Clifton since last September at Quad State, but at the time he was doing pretty well. He's as talkative as ever, but he's not forging too much any more. I still like talking with him though because you can learn so much. He called me one time to talk about a couple of articles I'd written. He talked and I took notes and I was happy to do it too. Patrick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will. K. Posted October 29, 2009 Author Share Posted October 29, 2009 Its getting time to move the hammer and I had a few more questions I'm hoping someone with more experience with these hammers can answer. I may have to remove the flywheel & clutch assembly so the hammer will fit thru the door in my storage building. Is there was any trick to taking them off? Do the spring tension adjustment screws have enough travel to take most of the tension off the spring arms when I unscrew them or should I watch out for them shooting off as they are removed? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinetar Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 At first looks, I would build a crate to be able to lay it over with a towmotor, prevent rolling and place it on a flat bed. Hopefully the TM could lift and set it in your shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 (edited) Do you need to take the springs loose? You should be able to take apart the pitman from the crank. There should be a wedge and it will drop right out. If you need to take the springs out you'll need to make a square plug wrench to loosen the screws. Probably should work forth and back from one side to the other. They will come completely loose and you can disassemble. Sorry, don't remember how the flywheel comes off - crs. Actually my CRS (can't remember "stuff") has progressed to CRAFT (can't remember a friggin' thing)! Edited October 29, 2009 by nakedanvil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGropp Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 Any disassembly of a hammer of that size should be done very carefully and ideally with a helper and/or an overhead hoist. The parts are really heavy and you can mash your fingers or worse just moving them around. The spring arms need to be loosened and removed to take out the rollers if you have to replace them. You can fabricate a wrench from a chunk of square stock and a heavy flat bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will. K. Posted November 9, 2009 Author Share Posted November 9, 2009 Do you guys give your hammers/big equipment names? The paper mill and a few other places I've worked at had names for most of their large machines. If I have to remove the flywheel/clutch to fit it in storage I figured I might try to get it off when the crane/forklift were around for loading the trailer. Is 4140 adequate for dies this large or would I be better off with something like S7 or H13? The hammer has combo dies but I'd like to get a set of flat dies made. I figure I'll be 2 years before I have a proper shop set up so I'll use that time to get the hammer repainted and rebuild/repair anything that needs attention. Thanks for all the info. I'll post better pictures of it when I get it home in a few weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 Flat dies won't benefit from the special qualities of steels like H-13. Hot work steels are only a benefit if there are sharp details that will get very hot in use. I've never gotten the dies in this size of hammer much over 400F. 4140 doesn't harden well in sections much over 2" or so. I really like 4340 heat treated to 50 Rc for flat dies. In very large hammer work the heat of the billet and the long working time can overheat dies and may require H-13 or FX. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krush Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 W360 from Bohler Uddeholm would be overkill and very expensive but you can keep it in mind for any specialty tooling you may require in future, it is expensive but far outperforms H13 or any other steel I have used in hot forging applications for wear and toughness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Thomas Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 I made my Beaudry #7 flat dies from S-7. Fairly easy to heat-treat and is a shock steel. They have held up nicely, though I've only had them a few years so far. I got the S-7 chunk pretty cheap because someone noticed it on ebay and posted about it on a forum. Sometimes you get lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will. K. Posted November 23, 2009 Author Share Posted November 23, 2009 I moved the hammer today, it went better than I had expected! I'll try to snap some pics in the next few days and post them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will. K. Posted November 28, 2009 Author Share Posted November 28, 2009 Not to exciting but here is a pic I snapped yesterday of it all tarped up for winter. I covered it up good once I got it in my driveway. If the weather cooperates I'll take off the tarp and get some better pics before it gets stored for winter. On the drive home the brake slipped and the ram settled a little more and while I was tarping it up I noticed some dammage in the area that was previously covered by the guide. In the past it looks like someone had a chain wrapped around the ram and one of the weld seams on a chain link took a small gouge out of the ram way when the chain moved/rotated around the ram. The worst area is on the left side of the ram and looks like its mostly in the area that sits outside of the guide. I'll have measure to be sure but the worst part looked to be 0.5mm deep or shallower, The right side of the ram just looks to have a lighter surface scratch were the chain moved. I'm not sure how this is going to affect the hammers operation. There doesn't appear to be a raised edge on the scratches or gouges. Except for the missing treadle link and the gouge everything else looks to be in order and to have been well cared for when it was last in operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will. K. Posted February 6, 2010 Author Share Posted February 6, 2010 Some pics the seller took of the hammer with my dad and me before we left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will. K. Posted May 27, 2010 Author Share Posted May 27, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 Good looking hammer. A lot more paint blown off the right spring arm than the left, it'd be interesting to know why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will. K. Posted May 28, 2010 Author Share Posted May 28, 2010 The paint is really coming off the whole hammer! I'm not sure what makes that old paint curl up and peel off so bad. I have an old drill press thats paint peeled off the same way. My biggest concern is the gouge in the ram slide. It appears like its an old injury. I'm hoping it won't affect the hammer in use to much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Fraser Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 I have a #8 and a # 300 Beaudry hammers. The #8 has a 3 hp. 3 phase motor (I had to build a rotary converter out of a 7.5 3 phase motor) that runs the hammer at 200 bpm. , the motor is huge it turns at 970 rpm, slip belt, no jack shaft. The 300 has a clutch, jack shaft, 1725 rpm 7.5 hp. single phase motor running the hammer at 180 bpm. I like the slip belt on the #8 so much better than the than the clutch on the 300 that I am thinking of converting it to a slip belt. I don't know the proper tension to have on the spring arms. Right now both hammers are bolted to a 1'' plate of steel that sits on 3/4'' rubber mat that sits on 3/4'' of wafer board on top of 5'' cement slab. Some day I would like to mount them on a proper foundation. I would like to know the proper foundation to mount them on? And how much it would improve the performance. Chuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will. K. Posted May 28, 2010 Author Share Posted May 28, 2010 Do you have any videos of your hammers in action? I've only seen a short clip of a Beaudry running. I'd be curious of the ram ellipse and spring sises of the different size hammers. I find the design of these hammers really fascinating This is the only Beaudry I've ever seen in person. Mine has an old three phase motor but the tag is really hard to read. I think it is a slow speed motor because its set up to drive the hammer pulley directly off the motor. What in particular don't you like about the beaudry clutch? I don't think it would be to hard to convert one with a clutch to slack belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Fraser Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 Do you have any videos of your hammers in action? I've only seen a short clip of a Beaudry running. I'd be curious of the ram ellipse and spring sises of the different size hammers. I find the design of these hammers really fascinating This is the only Beaudry I've ever seen in person. Mine has an old three phase motor but the tag is really hard to read. I think it is a slow speed motor because its set up to drive the hammer pulley directly off the motor. What in particular don't you like about the beaudry clutch? I don't think it would be to hard to convert one with a clutch to slack belt. I don't have any video. The thing that I dont like about the clutch is when I am trying to smooth something out the clutch will some times grab slightly and hit 2 or 3 blows a lot harder than you want it to. Your motor must be a lower speed, it sounds like its set up about like mine. I would really like to try a V.F.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Fraser Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 I forgot to add this, my hammer has a grove in the hammer slide like yours, I carefully smoothed the burs off . Just the burrs not the groove, it works fine. Chuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 I've had a #4 Beaudry for almost 20 years. When I got it, the rollers were flat-spotted and the ram would not work properly so the hitting power was pretty sad. I had a machinist buddy turn two new rollers out of H13 tool steel (he had a great deal of that steel lying around his shop) and harden them to 48-50 Rc plus he also turned a new bronze bushing for the crank box. I put the whole thing back together and what a huge difference in forging ability. Make sure the ways and rollers are oiled every time you use it. When working all day, I usually oil it in the morning and after lunch. The inside of the ram should be wet - I use Mobil Vactra way oil, which is the same type used on machine tools. Chain saw lube also works as it is "sticky" and doesn't run off quickly. The main crankshaft and box also will either have oilers or grease fittings. With regard to spring tension, I turn in the arms until the ram stops actuating and then back off a very small amount - an 1/8 turn at a time - until the ram begins to reach full stroke at full power. You can also move the location of the crank pin in and out to tune the hammer for the particular work you are doing. Moving closer to the driveshaft axis makes for a shorter but quicker stroke while moving further out to the rim of the driven pulley lifts the ram much higher. The close setting works well for die work and the latter is good for general forging - but the Beaudry is pretty flexible at any setting and probably one of the better mechanical designs to come along. I built a jackshaft for mine and have attached a pic for reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K A Willey Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 Great lookin hammer, I don't think I would be real concerned about that gouge in the ram it may be and oil gouge put in purposly if other hammers out there the same size also have the same gouge, on your hammer does the main crank bearing have a drain pipe near the drive pully end? Willey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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