x45 Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 I have come across a poor abused anvil, it was all that I could afford. I purchased it for $30 dollars, it wieghs 100 pounds. It was very weathered and worn from being left out in the open. I ground the top surface hopping to obtain a workable top plate. I only noticed that the top steel plate was very thin, badly pittied and in need of serious help. As it is ,it is unuseable. I have aquired hard facing rod to build up the surface(stoody 1105). Also 7018 rod to do the outside perimeter (to hide the hard facing weld). I am looking for some tubing to weld over the hardy holes, Square& round, so as to not weld into these areas making it hard to use once hardfaced. How would you go about this repair? What would you do? In the info I have about repairing an anvil they recommend burring it in vermiculite. Do you know of any supplier of this material? If you have done this before any or all descriptions or tips would be greatly appreciated. Thank You Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Browne Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 I would do a search on the forum of "anvil repair". It pops up quite a few threads which should give you some help. Also, have a look at BluePrint 097 on an anvil repair. Vermiculite can be purchased form a gardening supply. It is an ingredient of potting mix. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 I forget what the stoody rod is like but you will need pounds to build up the face. Remember to preheat the anvil to some where around 400 deg F. Vermiculite is available at garden centers for adding to soil and from builder supplys as cement block insulation. It is also available as packing material for shipping hazardous liquids. Don't worry about hiding the hardfacing. Have a refactory blanket to cover during breaks. When finished welding do bury the whole thing in vermiculite. Remember that some hardfacing rods are supposed check as they cool so don't sweat it if it does. For the hardy hole/pritchle hole and perimiter use copper tube to fill the holes and squashed copper tubing to weld against. Save the 7018 for the horn. I repaired a 19th century Mouse Hole anvil that was in very tough shape. Make your hardfacing at least twice as thick as you think you need. It doesn't build up the way you think it does. You will be at this job for at least a day welding. You will need a 7" side grinder or access to a milling machine to finsh the surface. Grinding will be a couple of days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 X45: Why don't you post some pictures before you take the chance of messing up that anvil. Unless there are big whoppin' chunks gone, it's usually best to just dress it up a little and start using it. Lotta perfectly good anvils been ruined by folks trying to "fix 'em up". If you go to welding on it, listen to Charlotte! Set it out in the yard and build a fire around it before you go to welding on it. Not too big, just till you see a nice gold color even peacock, the commence to welding on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 I have a friend who when much younger had a machine shop mill the face of his anvil nice and clean---and too thin to use! It only took about 6 hours using professional large scale welding equipment to build up the face by a professional weldor who is also a smith. Most hardfacing rods are too hard and that spider web cracking is fine for a wear surface on a dozer but not wanted for an anvil face. From your description you have not done any of this *BEFORE* asking for advice---*most* refreshing! If so read up on how Rob Gunter repairs anvils and keep the stoody for jobs that will profit from it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt87 Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Just how worn is your anvil? This one was in daily use as of last summer, probably still is and probably will be for quite some time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x45 Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 That anvil is far past mine, mine is only sway backed and heavily pitted. I just wonder what they call high qaulity work? I am interested in using mine for knife/ small forginging and shaping. I would prefer a smooth flat surface to work with. I have the welding skills to preform the task, I just want to do a good job repairing it. Its a shame that such an old piece was so abused. It probably was used to cold form pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x45 Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 Here are some pictures. I painted it to protect the surface, hopefully you can see the pitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x45 Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Browne Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 Not too sure I would leap in on that one and start welding it up. Use it for a while and give it a good try before making any decision. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x45 Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 The top plate portion nearest to the horn is paper thin. When I recieved it it looked as if it had been weathered outside for at least 50 years. It was a solid brown patina with no rust on it. I thought that I might be able to grind the surface inperfections out , hopping to obtain a workable surface. Upon ginding the imperfections got worse, which is what I am left with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 If you have not forged any blades yet do not repair that anvil! You need to build forgeing skill before knives. If that is the case look into the getting started section of this site and the bps for things to forge and sell as you gain skills. Make and sell enough things to buy a better anvil and keep this one for other work. If you are a skilled bladesmith you need to buy an anvil that is better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 You may have to do some searching to find rods to do the job. I got mine through a friendship deal for nothing. I had a three phase machine available to me so I could burn anything. Most of the commonly available rods will check on cooling by design. You want IIRC a rod that is semi-austentic and will throw down a deposit that is .9 C, around 13% Mn, with some (3%?) Nickle and the rest mostly iron. Like at least two passes and four are prefered. I've heard people talk about 420 stainless alloy rods that made decent covers for anvils Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 Just saw your anvil pics. I agree with the others. Those pit are not real bad and the sway back not pronounced. I'd just move my work area back a ways and concentrate on learning the basic techniques. You can work a long time with an anvil in that shape. Repairing an anvil that old is not something to do lightly. I suspect that it may be a wrought Iron body anvil. If it is then you have a piece of history that some one may want to trade you for. You got a super deal on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloscheider Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 I have to agree with everyone else - that's a pretty nice anvil and at $30.... leave it alone and start pounding :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewOC Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 Yus, I have an anvil almost exactly the same. My plan is to polish up the high spots of the sway-back and forge on them. have fun Andrew O'C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt87 Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 That anvil is far past mine, mine is only sway backed and heavily pitted. I just wonder what they call high qaulity work? I am interested in using mine for knife/ small forginging and shaping. That's exactly what this anvil was used for. The description of 'high quality work' was mine, I saw some of that smith's work. Grinders hide a multitude of sins, especially of the beginner -- decarburisation from working slower than a more experienced smith, pitting from not cleaning away scale, poor hammer control... oh and an imperfect anvil face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 Looks like a Mousehole Anvil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 Looks like a Mousehole Anvil That was my thought but I didn't want to be the first to say it. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x45 Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 Whats a mousehole anvil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 Mousehole Anvil's were manufactured in Britian around 135 years ago and sold throughout the North American continent. Their method of construction consisted of at least four pieces. Horn, Heel, and Body were forge welded together of wrought Iorn. When that was completed a high carbon plate was forge welded to the top for the face. They are highly regarded anvils by many Smiths. I particuliarly liked mine because it did not ring as cast steel anvils do. I found that I liked the feel of working on that anvil much more than my swedish cast steel anvil. There is much more to be said for Mousehole anvils but I leave that for others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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