Hammer Question...

[andgott]

I'm getting to where I am back working in the forge a couple days a week- And starting to feel it in my arm.

I already have some minor wrist issues- As an artist, I spend hours with a pencil or paintbrush in hand, and while I do what I can to keep CTS at bay, I often find myself in pain after a few marathon days at the drawing board. I guess it's a hazard of the profession.

So- I got to thinking about how forging is going to affect me long term, and the ergonomic issues that I am dealing with. It seems to me that swinging a hammer is probably impacing me far more than my pencil work is- And I want to make sure I am going about it RIGHT.

I have read a lot about the Hofi Hammers, and the technique, on this site- And I am really considering making the 'investment'. How much good am I going to be able to get without actually having the technique demonstrated? Is it easy enough to learn on my own?

Also- For those who have the hammers- A size suggestion would be helpful. I tend to work with about a 2-3 lb hammer usually, So I would guess that I'd be looking at either the 2.75 or 3.3 Hofi. I am just wondering if the people out there that are using them have found that they wanted a larger or smaller hammer than what they were 'used' to in a more traditional version?

Thanks!

[firebug]

I would get the 2.75. If you already have issues with your wrist I wouldn't push it with the hammer weight. Besides, it is not the weight of the hammer that does the work, it is the speed of the hammer. If you can swing a lighter hammer faster than a heavier hammer you will get more work done. I am not talking about swings per minute but the velocity of the hammer head. That is based on scientific fact.

I have only been taught hand hammer technique by Hofi and feel fortunate to have had that oportunity. In fact, I am heading to Israel in two weeks for a two week class with him. I can tell you from personal experience that his methods are very effective and I have never had wrist pain or elbow pain in my hammer hand. I have friends that are blacksmiths and they have to wear wrist braces, elbow braces etc. There have been those that have had wrist and elbow problems and after switching to Hofi's method they go away. What ever you do do not place your thumb on top of the hammer. This does many things to damage the body and slows down work progress.

If you work at the anvil for 8 hours a day you can very easily strike 15 to 25000 times, yes that is twenty five thousand times. Now you know why it is important to use good form.

Where do you live?

Edited April 3, 2009 by firebug
mis-spelled word

[Steve Sells]

I admit that I use a heavier hammer than most. Science does prove that energy is a function of mass x velocity. Having one at the expense of the other is less than ideal.

Use a hammer that you can control, and still swing with good speed for the best efficiency. If you are used to a 3# than stay with that weight range, care for your body you only get one in this life time.

Edited April 3, 2009 by steve sells

[rthibeau]

I almost fear to partake in this thread, but here goes anyhow. Mr Hofi's hammer and techique on use of it is not the only ergonomic method around. Others, including Jr Strasil (irnsgn), have posted good discussions on hammer use. One has to learn how to properly use a hammer regardless of whose method you wish to follow. Ian from London described his way as: "My swing I've tried to develope using the principles of bio mechanics as a guide. Depending on the power I need my swing could involve up to five of the bodies major joints as well as many of the minor joints (the fingers on my hand for example). Most of the time it's four; my back, shoulder,elbow and wrist, the fifth being my hips. I did a lot of watching and then a lot of experimentation with one inch pine boarding. More back, less shoulder, more snap to the wrist etc etc etc. For a given sequence of movements and amount of exertion the depth of the dent gave me a bench mark to work from. From that I found something that works very well for me, I can hammer without overstressing any one link in the chain that forms my swing and get the most out from the least in. Added to that through other teaching I learned about getting my hammer back by using the rebound, a further save on energy so I can forge for longer.
The quality of the hammer is a moot point if you cant swing it for toffee, find a good technique first, then you can actually guage what makes a decent hammer to begin with and buy the right one."
IMHO, start with a hammer light enough that you can actually controll what it is doing from the beginning. As you develop technique and muscle strength, you can go up to a heavier hammer later when you are ready for it. Start too heavy and you hurt yourself and get bad techniques as a result. By all means, take lessons from experienced smiths, but remember, there is no ONE correct way to cover every situation.

[Frosty]

There a number of good techniques that either eliminate or mitigate damage.

My technique is to use what I call a fencer's grip. The hammer is held loosely between my thumb and forefinger and allowed to pivot if I need the extra power.

I make my swings "round", something I learned studying the martial arts to increase power and minimize impact on the joints. Using a round swing allows me to crack the whip on the hammer.

Depending on how much power I need I engage more joints, starting with the fingers for light precise blows and progressing through wrist, elbow, shoulder, back and hips. Back and hips tend to go together seeing as at that point I'm usually giving it nearly all I have. For the full monte so to speak I'll go to my toes and reach for the sky but I don't go there often.

Anvil height is also really important, hyper extending joints is BAD. A too low anvil is begging for joint damage where a too high anvil only robs you of a little power but you'll be able to hit it more often because you won't be injured.

Frosty

[andgott]

I do realize that NO hammer is magic- And that technique has a lot to do with it. I am at the point where I feel that I have good hammer control. I also learned a few years back when I started doing a LOT of smithing while I was attending Berea College that you should let the weight of the hammer work for you. This was the first time that I had spent hours each day, every day, hammering- and it took it's toll.

But, I want to take whatever steps I can to prevent any further damage. If that means spending a little bit of money on a nice tool, then I have NO problem doing so.

Another thing is I like the shape of the hammer- and can see how it might be quite advantageous, especially compared to what I have been using to date.

Where do you live?

Just north of Chattanooga, in Hixson

[HWooldridge]

Being in shape is also very helpful. I regularly lift weights to help my overall strength and fitness plus I jog for the aerobic benefit. Upright rowing helps the deltoids - and of course, pushups or bench press and tricep extension combined with curls helps the arms. In addition, working on your grip with a tennis ball or grip spring is good.

[azIRonSmith]

Although having a good hammer head helps with hammering, having a proper hammer handle is just as important. Hammer weight is not the only determinate of how well you can or can't control the hammer or how much pain you might get.

A proper handle that fits your hand is just as important as weight. Most hammer handles by default are large and mostly oval/round. They are also usually overly long. If you look at the Hofi hammer it is shaped more "ergonomically" than a plain Home Depot hammer handle. The Hofi style handle is shorter and flatter that a plain handle. All of my handles have been shaped better to fit MY hands. They are similar to the Hofi style handle and I can hit all day with no issues. Just like in golf, if you need more power, switch to another club or hammer in this case. Don't try to hold on the the very end of an overly long handle and over power it. Just get a heavier hammer.

It sounds like you have a decent hammer swing, it may be your hammer handle that is causing you to overly grip it and causing issues.

Take a look at the only part of the hammer you actually are in contact with and make sure it fits YOUR hand. There's a reason we have ergonomic shaped items that fit other tools/devices. Why not have your hammer handle fit your hand ergonomically also?

[Francis Trez Cole]

speeking of home depot they carrya a stanly Hammer 2.5 lb with a fiber glass handle that can help with shock around 20 bucks

[Ramsberg]

When in high school and experimenting with weight lifting I came up with a three point saftey system.

That is:

1: The bones act as ancors and the frame to suport the body. The bones are the most important and grow the slowest in response to enviroment(activity).

2: The tendons act as a suspension and conection between the bones and muscle. The tendon grows the second slowest and is almost impossible to fully repair(becuase of constant tension/stress) after an injury.

3: The muscles provide the motive force and regenerate the most rapidly.

This provides a VERY dangerous scenario.

If one does a LOT of heavy lifting, especially in absence of warming up, cooling off and stretching, the muscles will grow very rapidly and the tendons and bones(connective points between bones and tendons) will not be capable of keeping up.

This is what causes a rupture of the connective tissue(or at least one factor) between the muscle and bone.

The safest thing to de when working the same muscle group in the same motion is to STOP and stretch slowly and carefully when one loses strength and control in those muscle groups.

Especially the minor muscle groups!

Every blacksmith should spend at least 20 minutes before and after forging sessions stretching and warming up, slow stretchs NOT jerky ones, they generally cause more damage then they are worth.

If you have been in the military please attempt to forget that training systems and stretching systems that you were taught, these are often very bad(although not always), I know too many guys who had their back ruined(as young men) by the bad stretching and excercising systems they were taught there. Especially the standard sit up, just about the worst thing you can do for your back.

Frosty hit it on the head with having smooth and flowing motions! That is critical.

One of the biggest dangers that blacksmiths face is starting out too heavy or working through fatigue and a loss of control!

Especailly when young, the damage incured to the tendons is often ireversible and does not show it self until 10 to 15 years later.

So, if your arm becomes fatigued and you begin to loose control, STOP, stretch, rest, let it recover, drink plenty of fluids, then when full strength is back, start again, preferably with a lighter hammer.

When I first got into blacksmithing I had 16" arms and could easily swing a 10 lb sledge with one hand, BUT I started with a 2 lb hammer and stayed at that weight for a long time, eventually going to a 3 lb hammer. I knew that although my arm and back muscles were capable of swinging that 10 lb hammer for a long time, my TENDONS were NOT!!! capable of sustaining that stress for an extended period of time!

Caleb Ramsby

Edited April 4, 2009 by Ramsberg