hheneg

Agree probably a Norris. Dont be put off by it being a less expensive Peter Wright. Good solid anvil. Use care if you decide to build up edges with hard rod, preheat with a torch because you will be laying metal in on hardened steel and wrought (ish) iron.

steel ruler

tried to post these Friday

today

New project

Maybe so, I guess I got lucky, virtually every one of the guys I flew bombers with in the Air Force with had advanced degrees and seemed pretty smart in general. Of course you have to temper that assessment with the fact that I am a University of Arkansas Alum. Pig Soouuuee :-) My dad was Army WWII and Korea, he did tell me that if I joined the Army during Viet Nam he would shoot me himself - sometimes you couldn't tell when my dad was joking.

Beautiful stand

Should have ground off the mushrooming. Thanks for the critique.

AKA grandson cutting sheet metal tophat for snow man. Learning to cut curves with a chisel.

cuts perfect miters on any 3/16 shape up to 1 1/2 inch. You see a 1 inch angle test piece.

doing some layout for building library shelves for a rustic cabin. lot of iron work there already. i got tired of flipping the cutoff saw back and forth on a prototype shelf so i stopped and built a jig that clamps and cuts both sides. if there is any interest I'll post a picture later. if this goes well i will be putting a spiral stair to match next. i work alone so sometimrs simple process become a challenge.

I am very excited. Will help with my worn out shoulder.

Been wanting for decades, yep decades. Thanks to James and Scott.

Ive had pretty good luck in when the surface starts looking greasy like you dipped it in the deep fryer. Thats for new or clean a36 in a clean fire. I dont use flux for those. If its a large piece or complicated intersection, or uneven surfaces at the contact area I use some borax. the real secret is practice.

I have a peter wright mounted low to use for bending and hammering. I cut off the bottom third of a 55 gallon drum. welded a little angle iron fram to a 3" piece of schedule 40 pipe with a plate welded on top for the vise mounting bracket. then I set a piece off EMT for the vice leg to slide in and poured it full of concrete. weighs more than 400 lbs, but I can grab the vise, tip it and roll around the shop (Im pretty small). But when it sets down it just doesn't move. Been using it that way for more than 30 years. Probably cost me $10 or less to build.

Got the jet, fabricated a stand love it, using combat abrasive belts. Should have bought decades ago, even though Im not a knifemaker.

Thanks Steve, good info.

Thanks I will

I'm considering ordering the single speed version (now grey) for ~ $1650. Best I can find out there are some changes from the older white version that was $2300. I seems to be a copy of the Wilton. I'm not a knifemaker, but I want to upgrade my shop. Spending more than $2000 not presently an option, I have a new Anyang hammer on the way. Any advice or suggestions?

my 1 inch square stock was delivered yesterday, so I qas making hardie tools. 3/4 in rod next to 3 in sched 40 pipe, a 5160 thin hot cutter for splitting forks, and most of a new articulated fuller for 1/2, 3/8, Nd 1/4.

i just mounted my acme drill in my new shop. i think the feed arm would be pretty easy to forge. would you like some pictures?

wrought iron