tmarkley94

Frazer- Yeah I have been finding that out after a few trips. It's stupid expensive. Thanks for the compliment. JHCC- Thanks for the info! I'm still learning basics about metals so that's helpful. I'll check Georgia Iron Works like you're recommending. I'm Planning on rounding some edges on the tongs this week without separating them. ThomasPowers- Will do!

ThomasPowers - They are made from 1/2" by 1" steel bar from Tractor Supply. I'm not sure of any specifics other than that. Thanks for the tip on "normalizing." How do you go about that process? Frosty - I do have a few coil springs laying around our shop so that might be a go-to for some of my future projects. Thanks for the correction on my verbiage! Irondragon - I'm going to make the reigns octagonal. Yesterday, I used a large punch to put some channels on the jaws in a # configuration. I'll be back soon to finish the rest. Being that these are made of 1/2" by 1" the reigns are very large so they definitely need to be slimmed. After that I'll adjust the gap when they are closed. I greatly appreciate the feedback, folks!

I recently started blacksmithing and have mostly finished my first set of tongs. It took three attempts to get where I am on this set. I'm still refining some details such as adding grooves for grip in the jaws, rounding corners on the reigns, and adjusting the pitch of the reigns. Lastly I'll need to quinch and heat treat.

That's a beautiful blade! Not to many knives made in that pattern!

Thanks iron dragon! Now back to making my first set of tongs ⚒️

No problem at all! I might just avoid it for corner work.

It's an 88Ib that I got for around $500. It looked like it had never been used. I haven't missed a stroke and struck the anvil so this came as quite a surprise. I'm just worried because I spent the extra cash for the piece of mind.

I have a question that slightly pertains to this. I recently got into smithing and picked up a Soderfor in very good condition. After some smithing I noticed a very small crack in the face of the anvil. Should I be concerned about this?

Frazer- I may get a Picard cross peen. It's around $44 and looks solid. I believe a 2 pounder. Flatliner- I believe I have the anvil locked down. Going for PU Saturday. Beyond excited for it. After using my Gransforsbruks forest axe I'm beyond confident in the Swedes ability with forging.

Thanks guys. I'm hoping to land the Soderfors. Only anvil for sale I've found in actual good condition.

Few more questions. I'm looking at two anvils right now. One is a 109# Peter Wright that is a little rusty. I don't mind restoring. The other is Soderfers 88# in pretty good condition. Both are within $150 of each other. The P.W. has a shoulder on the edge of the face. Is this indicative of damage or just a normal characteristic of the anvil? Lastly, which would you recommend? I don't mind the cost in either.

Frosty- that looks great. My favorite axes always have a wide taper at the end. I guess I need to figure out handle making and setting while I'm at it. I'll keep that in mind!

I appreciate the info guys. I might just buy a cheap cross peen off of Amazon to get me started. Thanks!

Thomas, Frosty, Daswulf- thanks for the advice guys! I'm sure this won't be the last I ask of you!

Daswulf- I want to start on trinkets and move up to knife making. My end goal is axes. Always been into chopping trees and after my girlfriend bought me a Gransforsbruks I've been wanting to smith axes. So slow and steady into it. I do have a budget of a grand total for everything. So with this anvil I'll still have plenty for a propane forge and basic tools. Frosty- I appreciate the feedback. What I might do is start on the current damaged anvil and get the Soderfors for when I'm a little better at the trade. It's in good shape so I want to jump on it while I can. Do you have any recommendations for a beginner hammer? Brand, size, and type?