Paul Kin

Awesome! I use those plans occasionally still, though I can build the T burner off memory now, I still check them out to refresh. I have built and sold a few forges now and am pretty close to knowing exactly what I need. Im not making money really, but I am recovering my cost. Im just trying to get the perfect forge for my work and in doing so help get some of the locals into it as cheap as possible . So far everyone has been happy! Its surprising how many people are getting into it locally! I could probably actually make a decent wage doing it if I really wanted to get into it. But this works just fine for me. Its like free research! I wish I was better at remembering to take pictures... Its just been so busy I often forget to stop and take any. When I get out to the shop and start working, my phone no longer exists haha! I will try really hard to take pictures of my next build though!

This is perfect. I know its not always best to have this info so easy to find because people tend to skip steps In planning that way, but its also nice when your in the shop and get stuck on something to be able to find info easily. Mikeys burners are the next step for me but you guys wont hear about it. I have enough understanding on how things should work that Im confident I can do it. But the burner size to cu/in has been a little vague to me. Now that Ive built and used several forges, I know almost exactly what I need. And I would like to plan for maximum efficiency. My current forge (that I just sold) was getting 6-10 hours a week use and a 100 lb tank of propane lasted just about 2 months. But I almost never need a forge that big. Now that I have a clear idea on burner size to volume, I can start my next build! Thanks Frosty! And I really am sorry that I didnt do some more digging. Trust me, I know better for next time now!

Ahh your talking about your T-burner plans!? I have gone over those plans many many times and referenced them to other people as well. But no, you were right. I did not go through forges 101 or burners 101 again before posting this. And I should have. I would have still posted this however, just with more info on the subject from me! So I accept your apology if you accept mine! I probably could have found this info if I had searched a little harder. But your explanation is very clear I believe. And it actually explains a question I had, which I will go over now for others sakes. On a quick glance, 2 half inch burners should heat the same volume forge as 1 one inch burner. But in reality they will only heat what one 3/4” burner can, and probably be harder on fuel as most people seem to use the .023 mig tips in the 1/2” burners. This is all due to 2 things, #1, 1/2”+1/2” does not in this case equal 1”. They actually each have slightly less then half the volume of a 3/4” burner. And then theres #2, friction. And I only just realized this right now! But it makes sense. Theres a lot more friction in two 1/2” tubes then there is in a single 3/4” tube. This is how I personally understand it. Its a little more crude then Frosty’s explanation but its a little more along the lines of how my brain works. Hopefully this helps others that may think more like myself. Also, if Im way off here, please correct me! Side note, I know my use of then and than are very much incorrect! Grammar is not my strong suit

I have yes. Thats how I search. Apparently Im just no good at keywords/terms... but its all good. I will find what I need eventually!

I see. Thanks Frosty. I do understand. I have locals asking me lots of these questions as well because I have forges so I apparently should be the “expert”... even though I explain over and over that I have no idea what Im doing. I simply followed instructions and they worked! Woohoo! I had a guy telling me hes making a 3/4” burner for his nearly 1000 cu/in foundry and asked if it will work. I said no and he should look it up on the forums and he just said “ahhh its just to melt copper, itll be fine.“ All I could respond with was “ok”. I dont want to tell anyone what is or isnt safe, as I really dont know. What Ive done works good but I cant go telling people “ok do this”. I have browsed through the stickies. It takes me 1-2 days to go through each page of each thread. However, my last couple forges were built following those threads and they work great! So I do understand your anger now that I really think about it so I will push no further. And I sincerely apologize Frosty. I really did not mean to ruin your day!

I cant find a definitive thread on this so I thought, why not start one!? So, as the title states, what size forge can what size T burner “handle”? I know the 3/4” burner to 350 cu/in. But what about the 1/2” and the 1”? Ive read somewhere the a 1/2” burner can efficiently heat 150 cu/in? And the 1” I havent really looked into but would be good to have though! Also is there ways we can make the forges more efficient? Like the kiln wash, better insulation, other things? I just thought the burner to cu/in and how to make it efficient would be nice to have in 1 easy to find thread. Thanks all!

You really should listen to these guys. They helped me through all my builds and I was pig headed with some stuff and didnt always listen... guess what happened, what they told me wouldnt work, didnt work. They really know what they are talking about! Now, I understand you are probly trying to save a $ or 2... but you wont if you dont listen to them. It always costs more to spend less! Get this, I am building a 2 burner forge for a friend right now, I just bought all the parts for 2 Frosty T burners, the copper tubing, 90° ball valve, and all the fittings to SAFELY run 2 burners for right around $70. And I live in northern BC Canada so theres nothing cheap here. The refractory supplies will be about $100-120 shipped. Then my time to fab a body. So thats under $200 for the important bits of a 2 burner forge that will heat 100’s of knives for him. Sorry for the long reply but sometimes innovation is not always best... Oh and add in the $30-40 for a high pressure regulator

Trevor, thanks! I’ll look it up! Im considering bringing a small inventory in so theres a local supply. Thats why I want to do some testing. Theres just no dealer for this stuff in northern BC at all as far as I can find... it would be nice to have something for us far westerners! The closest to me here is Edmonton and Vancouver. 12-14 hours away. Shipping on small quantities makes it very expensive. I would likely just stick with the tried and true Kastolite and mizzou but willing to try others!

Heres the urc refractories : [commercial link removed] theres some interesting stuff. I had absolutely no idea there was a need for this many different types of refractory!

Let me know how it works! I was thinking of trying the kalakast also. Im not entirely sure if I am going to use the unicast 3000 yet. Urc sells a lot of refractories I discovered. The uni-cast lc65sr looks interesting. High hot strength and thermal shock resistant and 64% alumina... but I believe its dense like mizzou so theres that to consider as well.

Yep makes sense! A single 1/2” burner will use 1/4 the fuel I am using right now. In theory of course! My big forge has 3” of insulation with a 1/2-3/4” (For heat retention) thick floor of mizzou and 2 - 3/4” T burners. This new forge will be about 1/5 the size and use a single 1/2” T burner with only 2” of insulation and only have a very thin coat of Kastolite. So they are 2 extremely different forges. But this little one should make a drastic difference in fuel consumption.

Oh wow thats some serious fuel mileage! I will be using a 1/2” T burner and be around 100+ cu/in. Im making axes so I do need the floor space but want to minimize it to save on fuel. The big forge is nice because I usually have 2-4 projects on the go. But a break here and there would be nice too

Exactly the reason Im going to make a small forge! I would like to save a few $ on propane.

Mikey, it would have no advantage except that theres no asbestos involve it the air tank piece. Infact I would far rather the stainless. Im just not willing to deal with asbestos. Im fearful enough of ceramic wool Id rather not mess with worse stuff. I dont mind fabricating. I actually quite enjoy it so I think Ill just ditch the stove pipe as its an unnecessary risk in my situation. FrankenBurner, I think your right in that 6” would be good for most of my work with an extendable rest. I can always use my big forge for bigger stuff. Even then my 8”x12” floor has been almost to small a few times. Most of what I make is knives and hawks/small axes so a 6”x4.5” floor should be plenty.

Panik, I was thinking that ya. I would need 9-10” tho so would have to order it in. I have some other stuff that I can fab up for free tho . Just takes more time of course.... Mikey, good to know! The 7” pipe I have (and was thinking of using until now) is asbestos then! So definitely ditching that plan!! Thanks for that tidbit! It will probably be a good one to store away in my brain.

Once again good point Frosty. My families health is #1 on my priority list. This idea is scrapped. What I want is a 100-150 cu/in forge with a 1/2” T burner (cause I already have one that works well). I have a piece of 6” long x 9” diameter 1/16” thick air tank. But that seems a little short... what do you think?

Good point Frosty! Maybe I will mask up and disassemble it and use the shell.... its pretty much the exact size I want for a smaller forge. And come on... a blingy stainless steel forge?! Who doesnt want that??

Thanks Mikey I was kind of wondering about that as Ive heard some have asbestos. Is there a way to tell the difference? Is all ceramic fiber white? As I mentioned, IF I were to try it, I would put a 1” layer of my leftover 8# kaowool on the inside and Id seal it all with Kastolite. It would be a daily use forge more or less. My big 2 burner would be for welding as it has 3” of wool. Now I am not at all set on this plan! It was just something that popped up as a possibility. If its simply not a great choice, I will come up with a better plan.

Hey all, I have just enough 2600° wool left over from my big forge to build a small one and was looking around at my scraps to see what would work for a shell, and found some 7” stainless insulated chimney... Now, my research tells me that its “likely” 2100° insulation. So obviously way to low temp. But what if I were to leave the steel inner pipe alone and just use my remaining 2600° wool for an inner liner? That would give me a 5”x12” chamber. I would also build up the floor with wool so its flat. I would end up with roughly 120-150 cu/in I think. All lined with Kastolite 30 of course. I know thats a very long narrow chamber of course. I more want it for a pass through chamber so could block it off as needed. This is just an idea for a way to use my spare wool! Nothing is set in stone and theres no rush whatsoever. Just want your guys thoughts on it

Sounds good, I will apply the Kastolite right away then. Just thought Id ask so I know for sure. Thanks!

So I think I have it figured out. One more question, is it safe to only use rigidizer on the kaowool? I just fired it and am ready to do the Kastolite but got to thinking, before I make it permanent, can I use it as is with the rigidized wool walls/ceiling to test it out and see if I need to do more? I have read lots about guys using rigidized wool, but is it truly safe?? Like would you feel comfortable if your kid walked in and was breathing the air around the forge? The floor/flame face is still the 1/2” mizzu so Im not worried about that.

And the boron, thats the dry borax powder you get at pottery shops correct? And they also list a few different kaolin types... it looks like EPK is the stuff tho eh?

Heyyyyy there we go!! 2nd site on google! Just needed the right word. Even tho zirconium is in the product description.. oh well I found it now thanks to you!! Thanks!

Oh ok! Thanks Mikey! I think right now Im going to do to insulation and refractory then test it out for a bit and see if it needs any changing. Then once Im satisfied, Ill get the Itc100 on it. And I will also continue the search for zirconium in Canada before I buy the Itc! Thanks everyone for all the info!

Plus $70 for me is only $50 for you guys haha! The exchange rate is killer right now.