Paul Kin

Ok here is the specs on the URC insulating stuff. It seems like a good product. Not quiet what KOL 30 is but at more then $25 a bag less then the KOL, its a fairly similar product is it not?

Thats actually a really good point Thomas. I completely overlooked that possibility.

Ahh I knew you'd drop in Frosty! By the way, I was in no way, shape, or form being mean. If you took it as meanness, I apologize! Sorta... (I have been in so much pain that T3’s only give 30-40 mins of slight relief, and its been 24/7 for over a year now) I never ever intend to be mean, I do anger far to easily as of late, but Ive decided recently that if anyone takes offence to things I say then “meh”. That is all. Anyways! What I meant by that little “jab” if you will, is that every time I have posted in the past, you come in real hot until I explain what I meant. Then, we tend to understand each other and be civil. I still respect you and your opinion very much! And I mean you no offence whatsoever. I am simply getting very bored with my forced time off and its starting to show... I have 6+ months of this to go. Likely more then a year by the sounds of it. Ok, back to it! I completely understand the tried and true methods and materials. It makes sense, I mean why spend money and time on the unknown?? Thats how we got to the moon right? Never try whats unknown! Altho, maybe thats not so... Again, not trying to offend. All Im saying is, there are other, very similar products out there that should work just as well and be a bit cheaper. KOL may be fairly inexpensive to you guys but its near $200 a bag by the time it gets to my town. Another thing, in reality, how much difference does insulating vs dense castable REALLY make? I have been using both for over a year now in several forges and have really seen a drastic difference... maybe its just me being a skeptic though. I do tend to question anything and everything that doesnt have hard scientific evidence. What I’m trying to do is find other affordable options for Canadians of all budget levels. And Americans of course. But if a rich man can barely afford it in Canada, its just pennies to a poor man in America . Sorry for the long responses. As I mentioned, I have excessive amounts of time right now! Haha! Watch who you poke fun of! I could send my condolences for recent events in the USA as well!

I guess what I mean is I havent had luck finding it in Canada yet.

Urc should be readily available down there though no?? I was told its all made over there... theres another refractory I have readily available called versagun abr. Its a mizzou replacement. Made by the same company as Kastolite. I havent had luck finding bubble alumina yet though...

This could be a fun ride! I know how much you guys LOVE innovation!! BUT, I have been told by the doc that I am in much worse shape then I had thought, and I am not allowed to work for at least the next 6 months. If Im lucky! So.... Im starting to get bored.... Im allowed a little time in the blacksmith shop each day but have to shut it down as soon as I feel the slightest bit sore, typically 1-2 hrs at most. Its keeping me sane at least. Sort of. Well.. maybe not. Anyway, that leaves 16-18 waking hours to do research! Woohoo! Ok, sorry, this is getting long winded already. I should start a blog... oops! Back to it! Ok so I have been researching refractories. There are soooo many out there! Lets just stick to one brand for now. URC. They have something called uni-cast LC94. This stuff would put mizzou to shame. In theory. It can handle 3300° and has 93% alumina! (How much is to much btw??) would this stuff not be great for ribbon burners and forge liners? I know its a dense castable, but so is mizzou. Then theres the unicast LC65SR. High alumina, thermal shock resistant. Uni-cast 28 LW-HS, 2800° insulating castable. Close to a substitute for KOL 30 LI Plus as far as I can tell... And theres many, many more! My big question is, why are we so married to KOL 30? Dont get me wrong! I love the stuff! Built several forges with it this year already (before I found out how bad my back really is). But with so many other seemingly great options, why are we so stuck on it? Is someone being paid to push it?? Kidding of course! Anyways... maybe this is me just going stir crazy. Its amazing how little a person sleeps when they arent doing any physical work. Frosty, read it all over if you feel the need to be ummm somewhat less then easy going! NO OFFENCE!! Your reading and my explanations dont always work hand in hand .And thats ok! But I promise you theres nothing really crazy in here if you just read it over! I very much hold your opinions in the highest regard. That is a fact. Thanks for looking!

So Im a little new to small scale hydraulics like presses and such. I have been working on heavy machinery for my whole life but thats a whole other ball game. Im looking to get 12 tons on 120v. According to the online calculators I have been using, a 10.6 gpm 2 stage pump that puts out 3000 psi in high pressure paired with a 3.5” bore cylinder rated for 3000 psi should get me 4.2”/second in low pressure and hit just over 12 ton in high pressure... does this sound right? Now, the pump I am looking at calls for 5hp. Does this mean 5hp from a gas engine? In which case a 3hp electric should do no?? Please let me know if any of this is even close!! Thanks!

Im not going to comment on the forge plans as you have the best on the forum giving you advice already (hint: listen to them!) Frosty’s brain seems to work in numbers very well from all the stuff of his that I’ve read so I cant say any more then him, or the others, on presses. What I can give you though is my own experience. With the forge, once again, listen to these guys! The press idea, well I had the same thought as you with the wood splitter. I built one for under $300 CAD. It works.... as long as you know its limitations. Its “6 tons” (probably measured at the splitter edge) so its VERY under powered for heavy work. However! It does 10 times what I can do by hand with my 5 pound straight peen on my low anvil! So it most certainly will save your body if you are on a budget and plan to do slightly heavier work. I use it for drawing out 1-1/8” 1080 hex bar. I know a 12 ton forging press would more than triple my efficiency, but I aint got no $5000 kickin around to buy one, and hardly have time to forge these days let alone design and build another toy for the shop... so if that is what you want to go with, it will work. Just a lot slower then a real press.

Well this thing is pretty sweet if I do say so myself! Its mesmerizing just to watch. Theres a near perfect vortex of flame swirling in the middle. Almost hypnotizing... as if its calling you to join it.. become one with the gentle, caressing flame.. Anyway! It works really well. Once up to heat, you have a full 8”x9” floor thats very evenly heated. This T burner worked out well too. I can turn the regulator down to 3/4-1 turn from closed and maintain about 1500° for heat treating. I tested it by doing a couple normalizing cycles on a knife. I need to get a new gauge but it looks to be at around 5 psi. I can do my forging at about 10 psi. It is only about 225 cu/in of course so the burner doesnt have to work very hard at all. Weird thing is though, it doesnt sputter almost at all at even the lowest psi. It does a bit at like 1/4 turn from off on the regulator... but it just runs so smooth. Im not sure why this one works so well compared to any other one Ive ever made. Any insights as to whats up there??? Id love to be able to repeat this. Heres some pics though! I couldnt catch the swirl with a picture unfortunately though... That last one you can see theres certainly a hot spot but it wasnt up to heat yet. Once I get going I always forget to take my phone out and get more pictures... oh well! All in all I am very happy with this one!

Well its lined! just finished this afternoon. I will probably fire it on sunday and start the drying then. But here it is so far: The back “porch” is line for a reason. I have a plan for some reversible doors so I can add 2.5” floor space if needed. But thats for another day. Cant wait to fire it up!

Sounds like you have it figured out! These guys know their stuff when it comes to forges, much more then me. Im still going to follow though cause it sounds like this will get interesting

Thatll be a nice size forge for big work! You might need a 1” burner though? If I understand your dimensions right, even if you filled it half way up for the floor so its a half circle, youd be at just about 400 cu/in no? Anyway, Mikey and Buzzkill know so much more then me about these things its not even funny! So Id go with what they say over anything. This is just something I noticed and may or may not be correct!

Haha same here! My dad has a lathe so I usually go make a few. Its about $20 in parts including the mig tip and adaptor then I ask $5 for my time. I hear ya there! If I have to start making NARBs, my time would be worth a little more! Thanks! I have a handful of my earlier ones spread throughout my neighbourhood getting tested out. I am just getting to the point that I feel confident enough to sell them. Thats what those 2 started billets are for! This guy has been asking to buy axes for months. So hes up next!

Question! This is the most recent formula Ive found for the diy ITC-100 on these forums: Is this still the case? If so, a person can make it very cheaply in comparison... thats why Im hesitant on buying the stuff. Just seems to easy and cheap no??? And if this is the case, why is ITC so expensive?

That would be a good way to go Jealdi. Would be the easiest most effective solution for you by the sounds of it! Plus gotta love the buy, pick up, hook up, start hammering proccess! Thomas is so right its not even funny! If I were able to be working full time I wouldnt have the time to build these things. Unless I simply stopped sleeping! Also, that was the case with my grandparents on my dads side Thomas. Never met my grampa. They were a mining family. Worked almost every mine in the area here. My dad and his siblings grew up playing in the mines even!