TechnicusJoe

I beg to differ. I'll let this video do the talking for me.

A few weeks ago I came in contact with a Belgian carpenter who was searching for a smith that could make a tool for his tool collection: a holdfast. He tried a few smiths in Belgium, but found they were too expensive and/or didn't even reply back. So, after going through a few forums, this carpenter found me. He made the request and we discussed the design. I then sent him a quotation and it was a deal. What I am making now is a big holdfast made out of 1 inch square stock. Upsetting the stock for the bend. Doing the bend. Some more upsetting. And some shaping. The holdfast is not done yet, but close. It need some more forming and small adjustments.

That's a nice anvil! It's a German industrial anvil, a smaller version. I have a 500 pound version. Nice anvils! Unless abused.............which is deeply sad. Joe

Nice piece Stuart, nice to read. Lots of info. about the "London pattern" style. A piece about the European (double horn) anvils would a good addition to this thread, I think. For a long time, at least for me it is, I have used double horned Kohlswa anvils. Like Stuart says; they're great anvil about 55HRc hard. Though they can be loud. This is not weird or special, as they are made of cast steel. This can easily be resolved by placing lead under the anvil, silicon, putting magnets under the horn, chains around the waist or just wear ear plugs (it's that easy). If you get deaf by using loud anvils, it's your own responsibility. The reason I like the double horn anvils is not only because of their esthetics, but also functionality. There are jobs you can easily do on the square horn of the anvil, which you would otherwise would have to make a special tool for on a London pattern anvil. Another nice feature on these anvils is the upsetting block, attached between the feet of the anvil. They enable you to upset stock easily. Because it's lower than the face, so you won't have to hold your stock as low and hammer high like you will have to if you do this on the face. (Leaving short stock out of the picture.) Something that is also different on these anvils, is the placement of the holes. The hardy hole is located near the round horn of these anvils and the pritchle hole is located near the square horn. An advantage this gives you, is that you can have a tool in the hardy hole and still use pritchle hole without having to worry about damaging the body. (Situation: Round horn to the left and being right handed. If you're left handed, the round horn should be on the right hand side.) besides that, the center body mass is usually bigger than the London pattern style, making the so-called "sweet spot" bigger. Two other brands that still make great anvils today: Refflinghaus and Peddinghaus. Refflinghaus is a German company that has made anvils since 1886. They forged anvils completely piece by piece till 1956. At this time improvements in casting came and they started casting parts. But they still forge welded the steel face onto the anvil body. This stopped in 1975, because of further improvements in casting that enabled them to cast the anvils completely out of cast steel. These early Refflinghaus anvils had a hardness of roughly 52HRc. Nowadays they raised their standard and sell cast steel anvils with a hardness of atleast 59HRc an inch deep guarranteed. Peddinghaus, also a German company that has served the steel industries since 1903. The first head of the company was Paul F. Peddinghaus (till 1930), under his name the first Peddinghaus anvils were made. These anvils were the double horn anvils as previously described and also single horn anvils, but with their own characteristic look. You can't miss them. They made the top of the anvil (till the waist) of drop forged steel. These tops were then forge welded to a cast steel set of feet. These were high quality! Their hardness was around 60 HRc. If you have an old model like I do (see display picture) they can have a hardness of 65HRc (most likely because of work hardening). To most people this is probably insanely high. But I still haven't experienced any down sides about it, only up sides. It draws material faster and acts like a heavier anvil then it actually is (my case: 300 pounds). I can hit the edges with a hammer and they won't chip. So, they must have done something right! The Peddinghaus brand was passed on over the years, till Ridgid Co. took over the anvils. Sadly the quality is less than the older models. They weigh less heavy (275 pounds max. to date.), their hardness is only 54HRc and they arc weld the top and bottom together instead of forge welding. Still, they are great anvils. I would choose a drop forged steel anvil over a cast steel anvil, because of the difference in structure. Like Stuart says, make a good investment in a good anvil and get it right the first time.

I'd go for hard wood stumps. I have 2 solid teak blocks under 2 of my anvils and I love them! I wouldn't want to trade them for any other stand. But these are personal preferences. What Fluidsteel said, get what you can get and make sure it's safe.

Nice anvil! That's a double horn Peter Wright anvil. Those are RARE! Be sure to post pictures of you using it, we LOVE pictures!

"Many roads lead to Rome." This is also regconized very well in a few topics in the general discussion.

Thanks for the tip, but I have used this mild steel drift for many times for many holes, never bugged me nor failed me. It can be recognized from any other tool, even in the dark. But if it does, I will use your tip.

I made these videos to help others make their tools. I hope it's of good use. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fL5cqT-aHz8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxYTIrEg0oc

That video sadly cannot be published due to copyrights.

Speaking of Sabre, any idea what's happened to him? I haven't seem him online since 2008? Any idea? His YouTube name is KidSmith10

True, Rich. That does make me wonder why so little people post videos here (of themselves doing blacksmith's work), because, like you said: " No one has to be mentally fit, skilled or experienced to post on the net, just need access to a keyboard and internet." So, why not?

John, the point is that this does happen in shops. Whether he faked it or not, the point still stands and that is something that should be kept in mind very well.

The title of of this thread already describes the situation! Also note he is NOT wearing any safety equipment. A good example of the DO NOTs. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYichiL_IEw

I found this German video that is quite enjoyable to watch. Enjoy. This may encourage you to brush up your German. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIzgwVu6MXo&feature=related

Well great you post your favorite way, but that is kind of weird if you don't even watch the related video or pictures for example. Do you do this with every post? I can't even say anymore you were being critical as you didn't even watch the video! And I still stand you should make a video. If you're a good smith, you got nothing to hide, or do you? 3% more flesh at the end by upsetting? I think you need to wear glasses, anyone can see it's more than 3%. Again, you bring ideas of how it should be done, then I "challenge" you again to make a video. Go the extra miles and actually show it. I also don't know whether you really watched the video, or a few simple bits. But if you actually watched the video, you could clearly see I am taking my time to show how it's done. Can you name any part in that video I am working my behind off, soaked in sweat? I can't either. I rather see a video than you explaining it by typing, everyone can explain by typing. Just pick up a book or internet file, copy the information, maybe adjust it a little so it looks more personal. And then hope it's the correct information. ( I have seen this happen in the forum, yes) Frosty, as if that matters either. It all depends on what you know and what you've done most of the time. That is something you also have to take in account. Just like math, there are multiple ways to get the same result. But I can already hear the "money-time" argument. A big part of the community is hobbyist, they don't make money off of it. Or Occasionally. So, why give them the same stress? Let them have their fun. And if they can experience more fun with a kind of stress/pressure on it. Then of course they should do that. And what do your not so "rich" students have to do with this? You're saying they're only coming to you because you're a cheaper alternative? Something I've been told a lot in here I am going to tell you: videos or it didn't happen (one small adjustment).

When can I expect the video, Frosty? I don't see it as important, what matters is that they can get it done. And when they can get it done, they practise. This craft is something you cannot force.

Well, excuse me for having fun when I started to run in blacksmithing. This was an instructional video for the bare beginner. No fancy tools or torches, just the forge, hammer and anvil. I also see some guys mentioning "efficientcy". Do you really think that that will matter for a beginner? If so, I double dare you to make a video my way.

I'm always looking around to see if there are any good tools to score. And recently I stumbled across this anvil. A decent 500 # sized anvil. I'm not sure what kind of a pattern it is. It seems like a mix a German pattern and an English pattern. I tried to look up what kind of type it is, but all I could find was that it was a "industrial German type of anvil. Another thing that makes this anvil special is that the upsetting block is on the opposite side than it usually is. This makes- the anvil more or less "left handed". Doesn't matter for me though, as I'm ambidextrous. Well, here's the anvil. From the striker's side. From the smith's side. Picture from behind the striker's position.

Nice to see my Peddinghaus anvil back in the posts @ SReynolds's #9 post. I do have to note my edges aren't 90 degrees sharp. They're lightly rounded, about a 3/16'' more or less. I find this to work perfectly. I rather leave the edges there than to remove them. I can forge nails, scrolls, whatever and it doesn't leave any marks. Fullers, hardy tools you can always make for the job, but edges you can never put back. I know you can weld them back, but one shouldn't touch a perfectly well working "machine". Also I have no worries this anvil will break on me any time soon. Peddinghaus's top from the waiste up are drop forged steel. My version is a little different. Mine is acutally forge welded at the waist (only done one the earliest models of Peddinghaus anvils, thus this a very old one) instead of arc welded like the new(er) ones of Peddinghaus today. And considering this anvil comes from a school where it was well used and no marks to be found, I'd say not to worry. So, I'd say leave the edges there, you won't realise how good they are until they're gone.

I have a 300 pound Peddinghaus anvil (older, heavier model) that sits on a nice more or less 200 pound teak block. It's very nice to work with, doesn't matter where or what it stands on, I get very good rebound. I also have a steel stand for my travel anvil, but I tend to take this anvil with me a lot more often as it's very solid and easy to take with me. Next to this teak block I also have an oak block, but nah...... teak will beat it any day of the week.

I asked Dodge (Scott) about A in A, but there is no usable info. in it, sadly.

I was lucky enough that one passed me on my way. I have always wanted to have a Peddinghaus anvil, and it finally came true! I had to have it. As it turns out, it's a PFP (Paul Ferdinand Peddinghaus) Anvil. So, according to the Peddinghaus site, this is their first maker, beginning in 1903. This baby weighs in at 300#, 25# heavier than today's models. And taking a close look to it, it seems the bottom and top half have been forge welded, instead of arc welding (used on today's models). So, it's in mint condition for its age! The only thing I'm curious about is when was it made. I know somewhere between 1903 and 1930, but I'd like to have a more exact number. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Here are some pictures. http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp166/TechnicusJoe/DSCN0382.jpg http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp166/TechnicusJoe/DSCN0379.jpg:http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp166/TechnicusJoe/DSCN0378.jpg//http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp166/TechnicusJoe/DSCN0377.jpg/albums/pp166/TechnicusJoe/DSCN0382.jpg http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp166/TechnicusJoe/DSCN0379.jpg http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp166/TechnicusJoe/DSCN0378.jpg http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp166/TechnicusJoe/DSCN0377.jpg

All that's known about KL is that they're English and great quality anvils, good hard cast-steel anvils. I'm sure there are abused ones and some that are less great. But in general they should be great anvils to work on. KL is as/about as good as John Brooks anvils. I have a 60kg version from 1945. I'd never trade it or sell it. It has a great weight and the hardness and rebound are just stunning, so. A keeper!

Well Refflinghaus anvils are at least 59 HRc hard to a depth of one inch. They have lots of quality checks to make sure it's "perfect" Fontanini's are 52 HRc I thought and their corners dent, as they say it themselves.