Chris C

As I preciously mentioned, that hasn't worked for me. No sweat. As I also said, I've a friend with a piezo starter in his forge. I'll check and see how it's hooked up.

Laticino, I think that's a good solution. Just that they are too blasted expensive for my tastes.

That's what I started with...........but the air and gas blow out the flame. So I use one of those to light my propane torch and the torch to light the forge. But I hadn't thought about the piezo sparker on one to light the forge. Good idea. Only I've already bought a barbecue piezo starter like the ones on so many commercial forges. I've got a friend who has one on his. I'll get in touch with him and see how it's mounted.

I've never been able to get my forge to light with a paper wad or match. The fan just blows it out. It takes the hand-held propane torch. I'd like to have some way that the sparker stays inside the forge............just like the commercial forges that have piezo spark starters in them! Guess I'm going to have to actually look at a forge with a piezo starter in it.

I'm getting tired of having to light a torch just to start my forge, so I bought a piezo starter today. When I took it to my forge to start trying to figure out how to mount it, I got to thinking the interior of the forge might be too hot for the sparking end. Any suggestions? I'm using a forced air ribbon burner, if that makes any difference in your response.

Kneemail sent. Takes a lot of desperation to take one's own life. Really sorry to hear this and please accept my condolences for your loss.

Thank goodness I've not done anything well enough at the anvil so far to have my little wife request anything.

I can only imagine the tank will last longer. I know it's only a relative thing, but I turned the gas tank gauge down from 1 1/2 pounds to 1 pound...............and lowered the fan volume a LOT!

Yep, Chellie. I designed it for Damascus work.................and while I've not done any yet, I've no doubt it'll do it just fine. After being scolded for running my forge too danged hot and burning metal up, I pulled out my digital lab thermometer and adjusted the burn temperature for 1750 degrees. I was running it almost White Hot. DUH!!!!! It's a fair amount quieter and I can actually look inside now.

Okay, I think I'm beginning to see the errs in my journey. Thanks, Frosty. I'll pull out my meter and see if I can set my propane and air to hit in that range. Then I'll have to re-get used to the new "normal" color and sound in my forge.

Thanks, Frosty. I thought 3/4" was what most people used for tongs. I've got some 5/8" sq.............and would be more than happy to be beating on that instead. I'll try that next time. But are you saying 1700-1800 degrees for forging?

I'm a mite confused. When I was frantically (disappointingly) searching for an anvil and a vise, I think several people put me on the "scent" of a trail. And I could be wrong, but I think someone even did exactly the same thing Billy did and said they'd seen one on Craig's List in my area and to check it out! I honestly don't "get" what all the hullabaloo is about. He was just trying to help. I didn't see his post as trying to use the site as a "sales vehicle". Goodness gracious folks, lighten up!

3/4" square hot rolled mild steel.

I've been saying I'm not burning up my steel...............but I ruined (burnt up) two tong halves I've been making. Honestly didn't think my forge was that hot. And I'm so new to this that I was shocked when someone told me the other day here on the forum that my steel won't get any hotter than the forge (DUH ) if I leave a piece in longer than necessary. I hadn't thought of that. (double-DUH ) That's why Thomas said I could work two pieces and not be afraid of burning them up! (Do I have to keep smacking myself in the forehead???) Okay, so my forge color is Bright Yellow. In fact, I can crank it up so high you can't even see any texture on the walls. (White Hot !) So where do I want the temperature of my forge to be burning? I read somewhere that forging temps are 1300-1500 degrees. Looking at a color chart, I find it hard to believe I could get steel to even begin to move at 1500 degrees. I definitely quit hitting the steel at about 1300 degrees. (by the color charts) I'm laying my ignorance out on the table here, so don't beat me to death. I just need some guidance. I can set it for the actual temperature, if I just knew what it should be.

Sounds like the kind of sale I'd like to attend. The two estates I had to get rid of for the family happened when I couldn't afford to buy much of anything more than a piddlin little knife here and there.

Sounds like a good way to do it, Stash. Yup everything in the world is cancelled due to the Chinese Virus. I'm pretty bummed out myself. "Was" going to my first Hammer In in September. Arranged the start of my wood carving class around it and made a bunch of other schedule changes in my life and now....................I'm beginning to think life is cancelled! Frankly, most of the panic has absolutely nothing to do with the pandemic.

That's the way we typically do it when a local wood carver passes away. I've sold the tools and equipment of two carvers and one knife maker at wood carving club meetings.

Thanks, Latticino.

Oh, I learned that a long time ago, Thomas. Wood working. Photography. Wood Carving. Reloading for firearms. Numbers/types of firearms. There's no one "do-all" tool. I told Jennifer yesterday I wanted to make a pair of heavy wolf jaw tongs because they were so versatile. She just laughed at me and basically said "yes, they'll do a little bit of everything.............just not well." She had a point.

Don't think I'll be pounding any 1x5 anytime in the near future, for sure, Thomas. Those "young buck" days are over, I think. Some kind of power hammer would really be nice. I'd really love to have a press, though. Heck, I'm a tool junkie..................I'll take "one of everything".

The tongs I'm working on now have a lot longer reins, so I'm ahead of you there, IFC. Seriously considering an air curtain, but this forge is already too danged "compilated" as far as I'm concerned! And I ended up doing what everyone was warning me about and burned up my tong bits. It takes me so many trips back to the forge to beat down 3/4" sq bar, it's ridiculous. Now I know why so many smiths have power hammers. Really didn't think I had my forge set to burn that hot. Oh well, live and learn. So that's two days down the tubes. Oh, and the handle on a commercial hammer broke today. Just hasn't been my day, I guess.

I use a product called 40,000 volts in my water. It's an electrolyte replenish. Have to use it................as much as I sweat.

You and your's sound like my little wife and me, Thomas. I sweat sitting still at 72 degrees and she starts hunting for a long sleeved shirt at the same temperature. Makes for some really interesting arguments in our travels and at home.

Tong tips much appreciated.............but that's what I'm presently doing.............trying to make some pickup tongs to help with the problem. I don't have any flame blowing out of the opening, but it's darned hot up there and one can't fiddle around too long. Like I said, my welder's glove is starting to look like burnt toast. I've got a pair of "Ove-Gloves" I use for casting lead bullets, but even they are limited when it comes to the mouth of my forge. I've never seen anyone use the aluminum backed gloves and wouldn't really want a pair myself. I'm just talking the hot mill canvas gloves like Magid makes. Like I said, my friend uses them at his forge. Guess I'll ask him next time I'm there. But you're right, Frosty, I still need to be able to articulate tongs with them, which is why I'm asking if anyone has any experience with them.

It's only 98 degrees here, Thomas, but I find myself coming into the the air-conditioned sanctuary of the house now and then. I do okay until I quit sweating and then it's ER time. So when I get a healthy sweat going, I head to the house.