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I Forge Iron

Goods

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Posts posted by Goods

  1. If you drill then cut, you loose some material and the dies don’t make a true round of the drilled size.

    For round swages, square the blocks up, line them up, put small tack welds on them, drill them to size clamped tightly, then grind the weld back off. Finally, to avoid marring the surface smooth off the transition from the flat face to the swage radius. The larger the transition radius from face to swage the more material that can be move in forging without marring or creating cold shunts.

    Keep it fun,

    David

  2. Shainarue, one thing I will definitely recommend is that whatever direction you go on the cheap, make it so that when the time and money comes to improve it, you won’t waste too much of what you put into it now. Especially the time, you can always make more money…

    As for the fabric walls, I’ve spent a lot of time thinking about that for my own shop. I was looking at canvas drop clothes from HF. The cost was way below what I could buy the raw fabric myself. As for the flame resistance, soak the canvas in a saturated solution of water and Borax (20mule team) and let if air dry. I also heard that adding Boric Acid to the mix resists smoldering, but I haven’t researched that one.

    Congratulations on the new property (if it works out). Personally, I would not want to be buying right now. Strange market, both high prices and high interest rates:(.

    Keep it fun,

    David

  3. Tim, the weld itself was not a big issue. I just brought it up to temperature real slow. My issue was two fold. First, the cross section of the leaves was tapered center to edges. Second, the leave we to small to wire up and not have the wire in the weld, so I put a spot of mig weld at the corner. Both of these made it very difficult to bend the scarf in. I also had issue with the parent bar thinning from scaling due the the number of welding heats the blend the weld. I ended up using an isolated heat to upset in the areas (and a lot of file clean up).

    All lessons learned for future projects.

    About the swage block, I’ve seen a couple sources for water jet cut swage blocks from mild steel, but they’re still pricey. Hopefully I’ll run across what I want at the “right” price when I’m actually convinced I need one.

    Keep it fun,

    David

  4. Alexandr, you’re always a hard act to follow! Beautiful as always!

    I got some time in the shop today and started on a single picket for a railing. (One of the smiths in our group is redoing his and asked for one for all the smiths, with their own style and touch mark.) I’m maybe half way there:

    IMG_0700.jpeg.80ffaa5a934100df5275697927630b8a.jpegIMG_0701.jpeg.6825daf27057f4fd49218f7f07aff9bb.jpeg
     

    I’m probably over doing it, but I guess that’s my style…

    I’ve got to clean it up, before I can got to the next step of forge welding.

    Keep it fun,

    David

  5. I brought a couple scrap shafts and some injection machine draw bars home:

    IMG_0688.jpeg.4c100b66dea82c98235294c30043dd32.jpeg

    The stepped shaft is 1-1/2” to 1” diameter and the other is 1” diameter. The draw bars are 50mm and 30mm diameters, but only sparked as mild steel. (The stepped shaft and bearings went to “iron in a hat” at today’s hammer-in.)

    Keep it fun,

    David

  6. The hot spots are usually under the burner, but every forge is different. On my two burner gas forge, when it’s cranked up high, there is a small cold spot directly below the burners. It’s a tunnel forge that doesn’t have a lot of height, so the gas isn’t all burnt when it hits the floor and actually cools a two small spots…

    Keep it fun,

    David

  7. Forge welding a handle on defeats the purpose. The handle is to make it easier to move the work piece around. If you have to move it around at forge welding temperature to put the handle on, you should already have a different solution. If if have good fitting tongs for 1-1/2” or 2” diameter cable and you comfortable working with those tongs, stick with that. If not, make good tongs for that size, weld a long handle on, or weld a stubby handle on that will fit in the size tongs you have. Lots of options, but don’t make it harder than it needs to be.

    (Some times it’s fun doing things the hard way, but I don’t think this is the place for that! You don’t want you to loose control of you billet when it’s at forge welding temp, or ever really!)

    Keep it fun,

    David

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