Chelonian

3 hours ago, Dave Toth said:

What did you use as a base for it?

I don't have it attached to anything, since I like to move it around. If I wanted to use it as my main anvil I would weld on some pieces of angle iron and lag bolt it down to a log.

That will make a great anvil. I really don't think you need to do any heat treatment, at least at this point. However, have you file tested it to see if it's already heat treated? If I'm not mistaken, the "HT" at the end of the steel code can mean it has been heat treated already.

Coincidentally, an 8" section of 6" round is the same dimensions of steel that I used to make this:

Mine is just mild steel, and it still holds up fine. If this were my main anvil I would have welded on a heavier duty horn and heel, but the thin ones have been very useful. If you have a welder and the alloy of your steel is weldable, you could so something similar if you wanted. (just to clarify, you certainly don't need to add a horn or heel, the chunk of steel will work just fine as is)

I believe the next size offered by Kanca is 165lbs.

You could certainly smooth down the teeth if needed. I've never used one of those vises, but I'm sure they would work just fine.

I think since you've taken some classes and done some forging you would do just fine making tongs if you choose to do so. Just search for "making tongs without tongs" to get some ideas. Here's one approach I like that starts with no tongs:

I can also strongly recommend a JABOD forge! I've used mine for hundreds of hours. Once you get to know how to manage it though practice, it becomes a very capable forge.

Thank you for the excellent post, Patrick! I've always been a bit unclear about many of the details you explained.

Looks like the rest of it is in pretty good shape. My guess for the maker would be Wilkinson, since it has very similar proportions to mine, and there seem to be a lot of them with broken heels. It could easily be any other English maker though.

As others have said, you don't need to do anything to it before using it. However, it is possible (although not necessarily worth it) to replace the heel if eventually you decide to. Here's the Wilkinson that I repaired a few months ago:

Definitely an odd anvil. Is there a crack/delamination at the forge weld for the heel?

Yes, it does need to be hard. A mild steel ball will deform slightly and cause a lower rebound.

I would certainly take a look at them. If they really are properly "heat treated steel" like they claim it would be a pretty good deal. You could reshape the horn with a grinder if needed.

It's possible that these things are somewhat like the Acciaio anvils in origin and quality.

Could you take a few photos of them when you go to look at them?

I certainly would not agree to harden them. If they want it done, just have them send it off to a heat treatment shop. It's not worth risking the part failing in use and damaging expensive equipment or causing an injury.

EDIT: Frazer beat me to it

Looks like a great addition!

That anvil looks sort of similar to one I saw for sale recently. Do you live in or near MA?

My guess for brand would be Peter Wright from the steps on the feet.

What's the condition of the screw? If it's in good shape then it will likely sound fine after some lubrication. If the coil spring is causing issues you can make a new spring for it easily.

Maybe it says "1845"? The one kind of looks like a four to me.

Do you have any photos of the anvil? They could help people give better advice.

Very cool. I'm sure those will be great additions to the shop!

The image works for me.

EDIT: just refreshed, and it no longer works. Odd.

To give an idea of the amount of heat released while polymerizing, polymerizing oils like Tung oil or BLO release about half of the heat that would be released by straight up burning the oil. That's certainly more than enough to light the rag on fire, and the only reason they don't always ignite is if the heat is released slowly enough to transfer out into the surroundings. The issue is if the rag is insulated and the heat can build up (like a tightly balled up rag, or buried under other insulating material in a trash can)

Whether linseed oil is boiled or not shouldn't really affect the total amount of heat released as it polymerizes, but the critical difference is the rate at which the heat is released (much higher for BLO).

I believe I read somewhere that the oils continue to release quite a bit of heat even after polymerizing to the point of the rag becoming stiff. So be really careful about throwing rags in the trash that "feel dry".

Looks like it's in great shape!

Is that type of steel much more difficult to forge than mild steel? I have quite a few of them but I've never tried forging them.

Thomas: I likely will contact Postman directly at some point, but I just thought I would ask here first.

Irondragon: I think the name on the first line is either "ER LAURRIGG", or "ER HAURRIGG" I did not really find anything about either name. However, it is a very nice anvil to use regardless. I think the anvil was made by (rather than for) Royds Works because I found this entry on the Sheffield History forum:  "John Hatthronthwaite Winder Merchant and steel, file, anvil &c. manufacturer Royds Works"

I have an anvil made by Royds Works, and I'm curious if anyone else owns one or has seen one. When looking for other examples on the internet I did not find any. I do not believe the maker is mentioned in AIA. The shape of it really closely resembles many Mousehole anvils, so perhaps it was an off-shoot of Mousehole and was either a small shop or only seldomly made anvils. This one is 173lbs and has a punched pritchel hole, so it was likely made post 1830.

If any one owns one, I'd love to see a photo of it!

Thanks

I believe that is a nail-making anvil/jig.

If I was looking to buy a new anvil I certainly would go with a Holland as well.