Chelonian

Thanks! I knew I would get lucky and find a good deal on one at some point. I paid $200 for it. I've used it a few times now and I really like it. Here it is mounted and in the shop:

Here's the anvil I got recently. 173lbs, made by Royds Works.

Are the weight stampings visible? Could save a lot of work if they are.

Is there any sign of a Trenton diamond on it? The proportions seem more like a Trenton than a Peter Wright to me, and many of the Trenton anvils also had the flats on the feet and the "solid wrought" stamping. Additionally, as far as I know Peter Wright always used the hundredweight markings rather than pounds.

That looks like the anvils made in the Columbus, OH factory. Originally I believe there would have been a serial number on the front right foot, but that has clearly been obliterated by corrosion. Regardless it looks like an extremely nice large anvil.

Here are a few I've made. Smallest is from 5/16" round, medium one is from 1/2" rebar, and the largest one is from 3/4" round.

The stepped feet can be used for both horizontal and vertical upsetting. That type of anvil is usually referred to as an Austrian pattern anvil.

The sloped edge provided extra support and durability for heavy work on the edge. That would be the side of the anvil that the striker usually stood on.

Those look super nice!

Did that just happen?
If so, were there any signs of there already being a small fracture from before? (like rust in the end of the crack)

I got it on a stand and used it for the first time today. It seems very nice.

I've looked everywhere I can think of for information on this mfg., but I have not found anything. I guess it's possible it was just a very small manufacturer, but then it seems somewhat unlikely that it would have been imported to the US to be sold. 

I was going to check AIA, but it is not available in the ILL system in my area. Could someone with a copy of AIA please take a quick look to see if there is any mention of Laurrigg anvils? 

Thank you

It shows signs on being punched on the underside of the heel, so it should be post 1830. 

The Holland #125 or the smaller Hoffman would both be excellent anvils for most single-person work. If you're planning to work a lot with strikers, then you may need a larger anvil. Holland also does offer a 190lb in a London-ish pattern, but it costs $1200 before shipping. Their 140lb London pattern is another option.

I got a new anvil today to replace my heel-less Wilkinson. It's a 175-ish lb English one. It's in excellent shape by my standards, and I got it for $200. Ring and rebound are good. The face still has some factory crown at the front, and is pretty much dead flat across the rest. It does seem like a bit of an oddball in terms of the maker and how it was forged however. 

Edges and face are good, with nice large round edges tapering back towards the heel:

Here's the first odd thing. It has a small crack/delamination on the bottom of the horn. If this were a brand new anvil I would be a bit concerned, but considering how long this thing has been around without breaking I'm not really worried about it. Also, the ring is very clear, so I don't think the delamination goes very far into the anvil.

However, I can't really figure out what the maker is. To me it looks like it's stamped "KR  LAURRIGG" on one line and then "*something* WORKS" (IRONWORKS, maybe?). There are no stampings on the other side of the anvil. Anyways, I could not find anything about this manufacturer, so if anyone happens to know anything about it, I'd love to hear.

In any case, it seems like it will be a good anvil and I think I got a pretty good deal on it.

I made/found a cone mandrel a while ago from the base of a screw jack (the threads will be used as a replacement for a post vise). I don't use it much, but it is handy when needed.

That's a lot of iron and steel to move around! Those Edwards shears are really cool.

The flats on the feet of a forged anvil usually indicate that it's a Peter Wright. It could also be a Henry wright (They had a similar shape and had the flats on the feet) but Peter Wrights are more common.

Very nice looking anvil.

JHCC, that amp rating on the Home Depot website had me a little confused. Wouldn't the machine draw more amps running on the lower voltage than the higher voltage for a given load? If volts*amps = watts, wouldn't doubling the voltage half the amps, it the output watts stay constant?

TP: That alone seems like a good reason to not change anything on it. 

Great, now as I said, I won't be doing it.

However, purely because I still don't understand exactly where the safety issue is, I will below state my train of thought that originally lead me to consider asking an electrician about it. (Just to be abundantly clear, I'm NOT modifying it. But if you want to help me understand what I'm missing here, that would be great)

The welder's main plug is a 220v 50A type. It also comes with an adaptor that converts the 50A 220v plug to a standard 110v plug, which is what I've been using to run the machine on a 20A 110v outlet. If I set the welder above about 110A the breaker trips as it should, so I keep the setting below that. This is all fine, correct?

Now here's what I'm not getting: If it's fine to run the machine on 20A 110v, what makes it unsafe to run it on 20A 220v? The machine is rated to run on either voltage.

Thanks

I don't think we're quite talking about the same thing, but I'm all done discussing it here. No offence intended to you, but I think that internet forums serve as a rather poor format for discussing things like this. I promise to you that I will either do nothing, or consult an electrician.

My guess would be Soderfors. 

I just have to say, explaining the reason why something is unsafe is a lot more constructive than just saying "it'll burn your house down" with no useful context or reasoning to be seen. 

All I was trying to accomplish in my post was to say I was happy with the welder thus far to potentially help anyone else in the same situation as I was in. I have not yet done any research on the safety of changing the plugs, hence why I left the hedge that I would only make the modification if I found it to be safe. Frankly I would rather ask an actual electrician. 

I actually decided to buy an inverter stick welder back in August. It is the Amico 160A model. So far I am very happy with it. A friend let me borrow a 115V flux core MIG welder for a little while before I got my welder, and it solidified my preference of stick welders.

Anyways, I've gone though about 12lbs of rods with it, and it has not died yet. I do have 20A 220v outlets, but I'm just using a 20A 115v outlet at this point (I can set the machine to about 110A before tripping the breaker). After the warranty for the welder runs out I may replace the 50A 220v plug on the cord with a 20A one so I can use 220v (If that is safe to do). 

Didn't make these today, but here are some snakes I've made. Smallest one is from 5/16" round, then 1/2" rebar, then 3/4" round. The 3/4" snakes are quite a bit of work.

Also made a wall hook (hook and back plate are connected with a tenon):