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I Forge Iron

Andrew Golabek

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Everything posted by Andrew Golabek

  1. Ya it’s just going to be a general purpose around the house/shop knife, I might make a sheath for it as well. the edge has been holding up pretty well!
  2. Ah makes sense! Yeah this was an oilomatic Rs23 stihl chain, it definitely felt like it was relatively high carbon during forging/grinding.
  3. Thank you! I was really unsure how it would turn out since it was unknown to me how different the alloys are between the pins, teeth and side plates.
  4. Looking back I think the carbon content was way too high, and the mishmash of alloying elements made it nearly impossible to forge. My next attempt will be with much cleaner starting material. I’d guess this one was almost in the cast iron range, some pieces that had crumbled were easily melted at forge welding temperature Because I had tried a wide range of forging temperatures, annealing and normalizing etc. I’m guessing over 1.7% carbon
  5. Hey guys, been a long time since I’ve posted, thought some might be interested in one of my latest little projects. My dad was throwing away a worn out chainsaw chain (too worn to be resharpened). I decided to try and forge it into a knife. first step I simply took the worn dirty chain, and wrapped it in thin steel wire to keep it in one piece. I proceeded to forge weld it, and folded it until I was happy with how solid the billet felt. No cleaning of the steel was required, however a high temperature and proper atmosphere were absolutely necessary, especially at the beginning as it was t
  6. It is definitely not because of the incorrect forging temperatures, but rather the high alloy content
  7. I’m going to either remelt this one and add some mild steel as the carbon content seems too high (it starts to crumble quite easily) or just start from other materials, as the hardness at temp is very high. Other options are; make some new tongs and be very patient forging it out ( I don’t have a press/power hammer) i was attempting to hot cut it in half, and a corner just came off.
  8. When I start forging it into a billet should I forge it making the top and bottom the ends of the billet, or should I forge it from the sides? I was thinking from the sides since it has one side which is not very smooth due to a piece of trapped charcoal and if one way is preferable, why?
  9. I spark tested it today, and polished up the bottom face to check if there is any visible porosity. Unfortunately my camera didn’t focus well during the spark test, but I’ll describe it; The sparks were dark red, and very short without any visible branching. I compared it to o1, and mild steel which both sparked xxxxxxx a lot more. Then compared to a high speed steel drill bit, which had quite similar sparks however the crucible steel had slightly shorter ones, and less. current thoughts are; due to the saw blades and drill bits used to make the steel, and the other scrap metal/forge
  10. Today I was successful at melting down some old bandsaw blades, and drill bits along with some old pieces from knife testing, in my propane furnace! Got a small lump of steel, have yet to check it in anyway for carbon, but this is the first step! Any suggestions on how to proceed? Keep in mind I do not have a forging press or power hammer.
  11. I didn’t use a degasser, I followed some of the recommendations in the ASTM copper alloys handbook for casting bronze alloys with tin. Some of the most important things I make sure of -the sand must have the proper moisture content, just enough to lend the mold strength, but not enough to cause water and subsequent hydrogen and oxygen porosity -I use ground charcoal for deoxygenation, you can’t add too much. -better results may be obtained if it is the second time melting a piece of freshly alloyed metal (the first time from many small pieces seems to have more porosity) n
  12. My latest knife has 13% tin, and 0.1% I think of zirconium added. The zirconium is a grain refiner for this type of copper alloy, and also increases hardness. my casting process has also improved quite a bit, there is zero visible porosity on the last knife.
  13. That last nozzle reminds me of one used for flame emission spectroscopy
  14. I think you are underestimating the material, it is hard enough that it won’t roll that far back unless it was exceedingly thin
  15. I took a few passes along the blade, the total width of the hardened area is approx 5mm I think, past that point I don’t think there is much benefit as the hardness of the cutting edge is what makes the largest performance improvement
  16. Yeah, i measured the density of the bronze as I cast it, to help me get an idea of the amount to melt for the casting, it was approx 8.7g/cm3 which is quite higher than steel between 7.7-8g/cm cubed. Testing recently revealed I didn't harden the edges sufficiently as it rolled in one spot, so I made a better jig for hammering them, and now it is much better. I'll attach a picture once I take some
  17. So far, my foundry has survived in nearly the same shape as it was when i started aside from some discolouration due to some silly experiments. I've successfully cast about 10 items so far ranging from 1lb to 4lb melts of classic bronze. The highest verified temperature I've achieved was approx 1400c during some experiments with ceramic it survived perfectly intact, which isn't a large surprise given the max temp rating of 3200f. Now onto its downfalls. There is a lot of larger grit in this refractory, no doubt giving extra strength, but mixing, and casting it without too much water by hand ca
  18. It seems that lead was deliberately added in the past to help the castings flow better into narrow sections. tin had to be mined separately and it was alloyed to make the classic bronze
  19. Search up Neil Burridge, I believe he does the closest work to ancient methods, for European bronze replicas. Swords are cast, cleaned up, annealed, edges are cold forged, and the spine is hardened by hammering, and some bending. One problem with many of the ancient bronze alloys is the lead that was commonly added makes it hot-short.
  20. We have some proper cameras and equipment at home, these pictures were simply casual ones.
  21. Not home right now but I did take a picture with a less distracting background before; when I get home I’ll take some proper pictures.
  22. Nearly done, only final polish for the handle and oiling is left. brought it to the forest to test chop some bushes and stuff, works pretty well, I’m going to make a video in a little while showing what it can do. -the weight is 1.23kg or 2.71 lbs -the point of balance is 5.25 inches from the guard now or 13.3cm. -maximum width of the blade is 43mm.
  23. The blade has been final work hardened, ground, and polished. The handle has been rough shaped, almost ready for final shaping and sanding, then oiling
  24. Done most of the grinding, putting the handle on now, also work hardened the edges and annealed it prior to work hardening
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