Andrew Golabek

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Everything posted by Andrew Golabek

  1. Today I successfully cast a bronze sword, this was my second attempt. 1.86kg of 12%tin bronze was used in the casting Not a perfect finish, but I’m pretty happy! will update as it is finished
  2. Awesome, pretty happy with my first propane burner :), tested today melting 2kg of copper alloyed to be classic bronze, worked perfectly well, although my mould making wasnt up to par haha Yeah mikey I think thats probably what happened with the previous gasoline burner, when the fuel wasnt flowing through, the inside oxidized, leading to problems with sufficient fuel flow, So I decided to make this propane burner.
  3. its got a choke, so adjusting it from here should be easy :), the actual internal diameter of the tube is approx 0.04 inches, maybe a little smaller, was hard to tell using the calipers. 8 inch 3/4 pipe for mixing, and i think 2 or 2.5 inch reducer coupling
  4. Running at a lower propane pressure in this picture but I think I got it running just slightly lean now, opened up the choke and filled the intake a bit. Should have a full range from oxidizing to reducing atmosphere now for casting what do you think of the nozzles which have A swell and then close narrower at the exit? I’ve seen them advertised for industry burners, not sure how it would work on one of these though sidenote, instead of a mug tip I used a 1/8th steel capillary tubing, cutting it short left a nearly perfect sized outlet for the propane (just slightly oversized)
  5. It’s my own design, I think the burner tube is a little on the long side, but I’ll try to open the entrance first, thanks
  6. No this is a propane one, had some trouble setting up one of my gasoline ones, so decided to try it, had the propane tank anyways. Running with a 0-30psi regulator
  7. This nozzle was homemade, and fired in the foundry pictured, made of calcined alumina, with bentonite, and carbon fibre for the green state binder. Total weight when fired was 23.7grams, Internal length of 34mm, and width of 33mm. The firing schedule was approximately as follows -air dry until no longer cool to the touch -dry in oven at 200f for 30mins, and then increase temp to 300f, hold at least 20mins -transfer to forge while hot, slowly increase forge temp until red hot, and then full blast -final temp approx 1300c, total firing time from start of 30-40mins.
  8. First properly successful ceramic nozzle tested today in my foundry, attached are some pictures. -Yes I know the burner is too far into the forge, this was just a test run, and the mount isn't permanent so I had to run it like this for now. Worked pretty well, any ideas for future nozzle shapes?
  9. I formed some ceramic nozzles for the burner v2.0, and have added a better lid to the foundry, and proper castable refractory (3200f)
  10. Im thinking, that if you only had one ridge at the front and back of the forge, and a kiln shelf which rested on top, and was slightly narrower than the whole forge-thus allowing the circulation of the flames around the kiln shelf, you would get the effect you are desiring without having the problem of stock falling between ridges, and it would be easy to remove and clean the kiln shelf or switch it out
  11. The original nozzle was steel, not brass, I'm happy with the burner as is, just wanted the nozzle to last longer.
  12. Note; this is being going to be used for a gasoline burner of my own hybrid design, reminiscent of the riel linear burner, and a coleman stove. (I've posted in the alternative gas-oil/gasoline forum on here about the details of that build.) The reason I'm attempting to build a ceramic burner nozzle is that the original burner nozzle from my gasoline burner oxidized away quite quickly in my foundry/forge, probably this was accelerated by the slightly oxidizing conditions it was originally being run at, and the burner design caused flame in the nozzle, this excessive heat destroyed the cheap exhaust coupling I used for the nozzle within the last 3 months-probably a total of 10hours of run time. So after some attempts at making the forge work with an integrated nozzle, and the coils built into the refractory, (didnt warm up fast enough for this burner design), I decided to try and make a ceramic nozzle Process I had some calcined alumina, zirconium silicate, and bentonite left over from rebuilding my foundry. Chosen composition was 97% wt calcined alumina, and 3% bentonite, final actual 96.9% alumina, 3.1% bentonite.-I wanted to minimize shrinking during firing, and drying because I only had a few hours to make it. The powders were weighed out, and mixed dry, and then 25% wt water was added, this was still too dry for hand forming, so I added water until the clay was just on the sticky side of plastic. The clay was squished, and folded until the even consistency and absolutely no difference in moisture or visual appearance was noticeable. The clay was shaped into a ball, and formed into a nozzle shape on the end of a new burner pipe (8x3/4 pipe nipple), placed onto a heating vent under cover of a terracotta bowl, and dried, then dried in oven up to 400f (200c) approx 1 hour. After this drying it was very fragile, but I threaded it onto the burner pipe to attempt to make threads on the nozzle. Placed back into the oven, and brought to 400f, then transferred into orange hot foundry, with a steel cup covering it to prevent flame hot spots. after 10 mins the burner was put to maximum, and it was heated for 30minutes, during which that was the hottest my foundry has ever gotten. It was cooled until orange/red, and then removed and placed onto the lid to cool. The nozzle has a ring to it, and only one small surface crack, shrinkage approx 2-3%, it will need to be ground out slightly to fit the burner pipe Next weekend I will test it in the foundry. Pictures Foundry minus the lid, with the old burner installed heating up. Full blast, the old burner was not functioning perfect due to its state, however it was needed to fire the new nozzle. The view through the burner shows how hot the forge is.The lid along with some extra stuff I put to maximize the heat. Believe it or not this picture was taken in the middle of the day, you can imagine the colour is extremely distorted, this was during the hottest part of the sintering. The nozzle, still very hot, cooling off on the lid of the forge. Complete nozzle, due to the shrinkage didn't thread all the way onto the pipe. Testing next week :), any suggestions or comments welcome.
  13. Just recently finished my second bronze knife, (bday gift for my gf). -increased tin content to 12.4%, is certainly harder and is slightly easier to sharpen - katalox wood handle -currently re-lining my forge/foundry , got some 3200f refractory (unicast 70c)- should be more durable
  14. I dont think the steel wool is helping
  15. Very interesting, beryllium is however very toxic, I wouldn't want to make one.
  16. Here it is, complete with the handle finished, peened 3/16 brass pins, I'm quite happy with it as my first knife of any sort, couple of things to improve for next time though. The edge should probably be further work hardened, I'm going to try 12% tin bronze to see how much harder it is, and maybe aluminium bronze eventually. The handle finishing and flattening the tang to fit the scales was the longest part of this project for sure without any grinder except an angle grinder which isn't ideal ( was flattened by hand). The edge is actually quite sharp, although sharpening by hand seems more difficult than steel- quick and easy to dull it accidentally, so far just been able to get it sharp enough to barely shave arm hair on a waterstone. Will try lansky to see if it's my technique
  17. I got the copper from a nearby company which had pure copper scrap, and the tin from 97%tin solder 3% copper. The edge is work hardened, i made a little jug which you can hammer and slide the edge back and forth to get perfect hits. Im now finishing the handle (zapote) and planning the next one, with a very different blade shape. This one is a bit thick, weighs 318g for a 9.75inch knife. I wasnt sure how strong it would be and left some margin of error for casting.
  18. Starting from a wooden carving , to sand casting in bronze. 90% copper 10% tin
  19. Added the mounting, and made a lid for now, as well as a choke, turns out it was running very lean, i was able to close the choke alot as shown in the pictures. The forge easily reaches temperature for casting bronze/copper
  20. Yes mikey, that is exactly where i got the idea from, was just a bit finicky to setup. I dont know what the temperature is, but it seems to be hot enough for any of my purposes so Im happy.
  21. Yep the wool has just been rigidized, that is the next step! Yeah, probably will get a regular burner designed eventually. I do not recommend "my" type of burner, very difficult to get working well, and more dangerous, it is just a cheap temporary solution, and I'm having fun experimenting.
  22. Not running on oil, havent tried oil, it is gasoline, thank you though!
  23. Both pictures as the forge is warming up, got to take one next time I use it. There is no "dragons breath", even with the burner port sealed around the burner. Why does the flame seem to disappear once its heated up? How can i seal the burner port arpund the burner effectively?
  24. Now just gotta make permanent mounting screws for the burner