Brian Evans

Hello, first off I am sorry that I do not have any pictures at the moment, I will update with pictures when I am able. I would like to know what kind of steel railroad track connectors are made from (to be clear this is not railroad track). From what I have seen on the web my guess is that it is made from the same high carbon steel that railroad track is made from. However I was not able to get an actual confirmation on it. I was hoping that I could make hardy hole tools from it as well as other items that require good steel. For those who are curious as to how I got a railroad track connecting rod: I work at a place that uses railroads and it was leftover junk that I was permitted to take. thank you all

what is the best way to make charcoal? I normally use coal

Thanks guys, I shall turn my blower down more. I was just using pine scraps when I fired it.

I made a JABOD design forge and decided to have the final coating be refractory cement instead of dirt. (Hercules brand refractory cement/mortar) Due to the very flowy nature of the cement I wanted to fire it before I made it look nice (hence the ridges and bumps). After waiting 2 days (4 hours to dry was recommended) I lit it up and afterwards the fire pot was green and looked like it was glass almost. Have any of you encountered this? Should I worry? Yes I know it looks hideous at the moment.

I will still be hand forging a lot, I just have large chunks of metal I need to move around and my back isn't liking the hammering I am doing. Thanks about the wood shop, but the tools you see aren't mine. Mine are elsewhere in the shop. I may do that, I hadn't thought of that. I will probably cut a rectangular piece out of the stump and fit it in that way. Thank you

You are probably right about using through bolts I will look into that (I used screws). I plan on being safe. I have a foot pedal that I will be using to make sure it doesn't stay on longer than it should.

What do you mean by box the frame in?

I am making a power hammer and am not sure a wooden frame is up to the task. As I do not have access welder or nor the knowledge of how to use one I have made a frame out of wood. I have enclosed a picture of the design and of my frame (I am not done with it). What do you guys think? I can jump on the frame and it barely moves. As I have never used one before I don't know about the stresses that the hammering puts on the machine.

Thank you, I was not aware I could do that.

I got a drill press (with hundreds of bits) and a wood/metal lathe (with 20+ tools and attachments) yesterday for 200$. Yes they are old but they work and seem to have been taken care of. Pics are from the place I bought them from. I literally just got the same thing yesterday. Only you got it for free

Hahaha, I did that on accident once and I couldn't figure out why it wasn't working for a while. After I use my forge I most of the time take it apart so there is no chance of the gasses in the air vents. However I did not know that that could be a problem, glad I know that now. The air enters the forge by a t joint and two pipes. The air enters the fire by drilled holes in the pipe (the outer ends of the pipe are capped) . The holes are an inch and a half separated from each other. Originally I would have a grate above the pipe but it kept melting and after using it a few times realised that it would work without the grate.

I shall do that, thank you.

I'm mostly alone in my workshop so no sledgehammers. How high should it be, I am 6'2 and want to minimize back problems from this.

Should I try using acetone?

It does seem to look like concrete but it is a painted piece of wood. Thanks for the tip though. I am not actually sure what height I should have. Is there a way to tell?

I use charcoal to start the fire then go to coal, I find coal burns more cleanly and evenly (versus charcoal). Do you have a lot of heat escaping in yours? That is my main worry. I want my forge to be efficient.

I can't make out the numbers unfortunately, any help with this?

I will keep you posted, I'm buisy the next few days though because of work.

I did make it so I would be able to heat treat blades. The bricks are moveable and the airflow is guaged by a gate valve near the vacuum. The piping is threaded and designed so I can use half of the forge if desired. After trying one blade I decided to start with smaller things like wall sconces and wait till I get better. Should I make a different forge? And only have one fire pit like I see in many forges?

I do feel a little guilty but considering I was using a smooth rock beforehand I don't feel too guilty No mask but I definitely know that this was one of those once in a lifetime deals. I read that Hays Budden are the "cadalac of anvils" I am curious as to why they are considered that.

I made this forge out of an old cast iron sink, metal gardening stakes, fire bricks, pipes and a repurposed vacuum. You don't see in the picture but the back of the sink is to be used as a top for it to help keep in the heat. And I did elivate the higher over the air vent. I use coal as fuel. If anyone has any tweaks or tips on how to improve it I would be grateful. Thanks

Yeah I just joined this forum haven't figured out everything to it yet. I mostly joined to get the answer to my question but seeing how active it is I have decided to stay. Seems like a great community.

Thanks for identifying it. I got it for 50$ from someone who wanted it gone. I will have to find that number

I purchased this anvil today and I cannot find what the make of this anvil is. I am happy to have gotten it as I have been looking for one for several months. By my estimate I think it is around 200lbs with the chain and block. There are some letters that I can make out but none of it seems to correlate with any brands I have researched. Any help identifying this would be appreciated.