Work With Nature

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Work With Nature

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Kolam, Kerala, India
  • Interests
    Growing vegetables, beekeeping, seed saving, blacksmithing.

Recent Profile Visitors

361 profile views
  1. How to tell if your forge weld will hold

    Thanks FoxFire, Makes a lot of sense. Just to update the weld actually came apart on me when I tried to drift the eye wider. Did it at a red heat. In the bottom photo of my first post it is the weld bellow. It was interesting that it was the underside when I did the welds, so turning the billet is important. You live and you learn. Dropping the darn thing and as I recently found out, not removing the scale with a wire brush at orange heat was a mistake too. Well never mind will keep at it.
  2. How to tell if your forge weld will hold

    JHCC, Will take a closer look but am starting to get the feeling that it actually took well enough at the back area. Going by what you mention that is exactly how it looks on a picture I took. These are great tips.
  3. How to tell if your forge weld will hold

    OK the carbon does not leave the welds but migrates and equalizes out eventually across the steels. Am gona give them tests a go. What do you think them lines are? Anyone.
  4. How to tell if your forge weld will hold

    Thanks everyone for getting back to me on it. So did I understand correctly, them lines are inclusions??? Could the lines be from carbon trying to leave the steel?
  5. Been googling this question now for the past hour and can not get a proper answer. Also did ask this question on a different thread here on this forum, but it is not related to the original question of that thread and not any wiser. I am wondering how do beginners like me know if our efforts have paid of regarding to doing forge welding and having them hold well enough, to not come apart later on. It is probably obvious that visual cracks will not work, but what about lines in the welds? I have now done three welds in total. They look and feel solid enough but them lines have me worried. First picture is my attempt at damascus (two folds in total), second is my attempt at a hatchet. The hatched has a spring steel insert and as many of you know it is very hard to move under the hand held hammer. Don't want to waist 5 hours of my time if it just comes apart later on. Am not that mad. If anyone could let me know would appreciate it. Also would like to invite people to post some pictures of their failed attempts and what a good weld may look like. I think to have some pics would be good and some detailed info on how to recognize a good from a bad one. Cheers David.
  6. I see so you make a taper at the end of the v to create a scarf joint for it to not cut into the spring insert. Al right then as this is just a test on how my weld is doing I will convince myself under those circumstances that it is alright to further draw out the piece and see if that will work. Thanks for getting back to me on it.
  7. I I think you may be right. Did the weld 5 times with the first two perhaps not being hot enough. Piece kept sliding around. Plus I did drop the piece just before the very first weld and the insert that was up in till that point stuck in there by the bolt clamp thing came out. I used WD40, but as soon as it dropped out I got some boric acid on the piece. On the third it stuck at the back. Then spend the next two trying to close the front bit and hammering on the back as well and think I got some of the front to stick eventually but not all. That is why I ground the front away. I found some gaps that I could see with the naked eye. But to be honest I did not wack the mild steel into the spring steel as I was busy with getting the front welded and it was getting late. So ended up normalizing the piece three times. But what do I know. Thought it might be a good idea. Do you think those very fine lines are OK? They go around the entire weld. You know the dark lines between the welds. Will the weld hold. Am worried as I dropped the piece that I had scale build up from the very first weld and those may be the dark lines?.
  8. Hi I uploaded the photos if you don't mind and could let me know if those welds are workable? Was planning to draw out the material into a small hatchet.
  9. Road to Damascus

    will52100, What you were trying to say was very clear from the beginning to be honest. Easy to grasp and thanks for making your point. If you have noticed a difference in size once you get up to those numbers then it is reasonable to assume that one can take your word for it. Especially if you have done many such billets. In the back of my mind I will file that info away and at least take it into consideration once I get to that stage. Nothing is written in stone. Depends is usually the word!
  10. OK got a wee bit carried away with the grinding First picture is before grinding and cutting of the bolt area the rest is how it looks now. You will notice a very fine line that is around one quarter of the width of a hair, going around the weld area. Is that normal or did I mess up the weld now after all? The front part where the bolt was, needed most of the grinding, as am sure there was a gap between the pieces. This was on both sides. Still need to drift the eye, as it is a bit small, I think I made the insert too long. Am pleased though by what I may still be able to do with it.
  11. That is some great advise guys and Charles R. Stevens that about the lignin in the wood is amazing bit of info. Have seen the African axes that have a knot just behind the head. Now that would be a fun project too and I would have a good axe. But will plough on with what I got just to learn from drawing it out and seeing if I can get the proportions right. Fore sure will take some pictures as am heading to the farm now. My plan would be to wire brush it all up and get some close ups. Then spend some time grinding bits of the sleeves away that are over leaning the insert. The piece did move. Will hold my horse so on the cutting part till I get some feedback from you jlpservicesinc. Just a quick question, was that piece in the video from a propane forge or from a coal fire. The borax does keep it very clean alright. The axe head as far as I can tell did get welded together as I did feel a difference to how solid the piece got. But will get some closeups. David.
  12. Ah yes know what you mean with welding the eye shut first and putting in the bit later. The reason why I picked an axe was I asked meself what do I need to forge that I need right now. Axe / hatchet it was. Well since I do have most of it welded up now am gona cut of were it did not take and draw the rest out. Don't know seems like an awful waste to not turn it into one that I got this far now. For me this was difficult alright. Lots to pay attention to at the same time.
  13. Damascus: 5160 and what???

    The only thing I can think of is I watched a video some weeks back by a guy doing a damascus billet using 15n20 and leaf spring. 15n20 has nickel and carbon in it as far as I know. Here is the link might help you out.
  14. forge welding

    Ah good to know
  15. forge welding

    Did a small update on the thread where we talked about it. I think I actually pulled it off. Mostly anyways