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I Forge Iron

CreekSideForge

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Everything posted by CreekSideForge

  1. Hey y’all, Over the weekend, I took a chef knife making class over in Detroit with Niko Nicolaides. He showed us some of his examples and did some demoing then let us go at it. On Saturday, we forged, profiled and heat treated the knives. Because I have experience already doing this, I knew most of what to do but he still had some useful tips and tricks on how to move the metal to specific places. Sunday was spent grinding and finishing the handle. This is the Detroit Smith Shop where the class was hosted. Profiled I lear
  2. It helps to live in southwest MI where it rains 6 days in a week during spring time.
  3. I have been working on this knife for a couple of weekends and I found out after all the finish grinding was done that only about .25” up the bevel was hardened. So I said whatever screw it, normalized it twice and then quenched it waited the appropriate amount of time to get past the quench curve nose, clamped it between two boards. And it worked!!! Just a bit of decarb and the smallest of a wiggle in one spot that easily ground out. I’m putting this success down to luck . And I banged out the other one this morning also. And my dad, his friend and I moved his 2200 lb cast
  4. Thanks Lew L. Try staring at the big makers stuff for years and reading as much as you can in as many reputable places. Oh and lots and lots of work.
  5. Bottom two are ready for heat treat. The top I got the wrought iron guard fitted up and then ground it to shape. It’s ready for hand sanding and finish work.
  6. I think I’m going to make one of these as warm up for each session.
  7. For 1084 and 80crv2, peanut, canola, mineral, frying, and veggie oil all work fine. Probably can find them at a big store like Costco or maybe Walmart or Meijer. Plus those steels are very forgiving and easy to work with. Probably can get away with the 1095 if that’s all you have available.
  8. Finished up my kitchen tools and a smaller board for my brother.
  9. Finished the last one; walnut, maple, Padauk, and cherry.
  10. Thank you! I finished up those knives and started a new board for my dad for his birthday.
  11. I believe it’s the vinegar in the mustard that reacts with the iron and creates oxides that help prevent extreme rusting. I could be wrong about the vinegar being entirely responsible for the process. It can be dabbed on with a finger or with a cotton ball in a thin layer to create different patterns. Leave it on there for about 30-45 minutes or until the mustard turns dark brown then wash it off.
  12. Thank you, just 80crv2 with a mustard patina applied, no patternwelding.
  13. Finished these up, a 8” chef and a 4” utililty for my self and a paring knife for my dad. The steel is 80crv2 and the woods are wenge and cocobolo. I added a mustard patina for looks and some protection.
  14. Thank you Frosty! Cutting boards are really fun to make and when that first coat of oil is poured on, it’s just wow.
  15. I got a few items made in the past few months. All of them gifts for family. The boards the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th ones and I’m very happy how they turned out. For my mom, I made her two cutting boards and a santoku influenced kitchen knife. The end grain board is made out of cherry, Padauk, and Peruvian walnut. The other one is black walnut, Padauk and maple. They both are finished with food grade mineral oil and Howard’s Butcher Block Conditioner. The knife is 6.5” with Bubinga scales and is made out of 80crv2 with a mustard patina. For my sister, I made a nice big ~1
  16. I got a lot of practice making knives over break. Everyone wanting kitchen knives for Christmas which gave me a lot of opportunity to experiment. Learned a lot and no two knives are the same. With the first picture, I made a 8” chef knife out of 80crv2, a ~5” utility kitchen out of San mai wrought and 80crv2, 6” chef out of 80crv2, another ~4.5” utility, and a 3” paring. I learned that wrought is like literal butter when it’s nice and hot. I had to fight the urge to just grab and mold it like playdoh. I finished the paring and 6” chef in later photos. But the 8” one wa
  17. I'm pretty sure it works fine, gave to my brother as a gift. He's the more of the beer lover than I am and I haven't heard any complaints. I like the music cleft idea! That would be cool to do.
  18. Thank you. Lou, the spine at the base is .135" and has a distal taper down to something. Can't remember off the top of my head, but I left the edge at the tip thicker to help a little. Its more of a slicer than a chopper.
  19. After a stupid amount of time and a restart, this is done. Started with a blade of 1084 that worked just fine up until the point where I decided to do the heat treat again because I wasn't satisfied with the first one. Bad idea because it was too thin by that point and the edge looked like it was Lake Michigan on a windy day. Restarted the blade using 80crv2, which worked just fine. Forging, heat treat and grinding went well. Anyway, the guard is 1084/15n20 with 12 layers twisted. The handle goes tiger striped maple, wenge and bubinga with a length of 4.5". It is finished with sever
  20. So I managed to grab some 2x1x3" H-13 blocks from work with the intention of making a hot cut and other tools, what would y'all say to that? I dont have anyway to do the proper heat or anything close to it. I've read that once it's done being forged, let it cool slowly (poor man's anneal), do the grinding , then take it up to a dullish red and put it somewhere safe to cool down for the heat treatment. That sound ok? I know most of you use jackhammer bits or torsion bars or axles but I don't have any of those available. Plus, I have 3 pieces so there's room for error and mess up.
  21. Hey Frosty, I have a quick question. Currently, I have a coal forge and a JABOD charcoal forge that I use to mainly make knives and other things. They work wonderfully for regular work and forge welding, but they're more difficult to use for heat treatment mainly due to having inconsistent heat and/or heat control. Therefore, I would like to build a gas forge to help with that problem. It would be out of a 20 lb propane tank out of the style of Wayne Coe, 2 layers of kaowool, kastolite,etc. The heat treatment would involve a baffle tube also. My question is: would you recommend a ribbon
  22. Ok thanks! I'll try be more patient in the future. Seems to be the key to almost everything.
  23. I had it running yesterday for about 5 hours and it worked fabulously. I moved the trench wall closer to the tuyere to about 4 inches away like Mr. Stevens has suggested and it worked much better. I also pretty sure I had it near welding temperature which is very nice to know. The box never got hot on the sides and the pipe was only warm about 4 inches out. There's a heat shield in front of the trench to keep my tongs from getting uncomfortably hot. About half way though I kinda converted to coal and it worked just as well as the charcoal. I didn't really find that much clinker in the bo
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