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I Forge Iron

CreekSideForge

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About CreekSideForge

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vicksburg, MI
  • Interests
    Reading, Blacksmithing, Knifemaking, Mech. Eng. Student

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  1. Hey y’all, Over the weekend, I took a chef knife making class over in Detroit with Niko Nicolaides. He showed us some of his examples and did some demoing then let us go at it. On Saturday, we forged, profiled and heat treated the knives. Because I have experience already doing this, I knew most of what to do but he still had some useful tips and tricks on how to move the metal to specific places. Sunday was spent grinding and finishing the handle. This is the Detroit Smith Shop where the class was hosted. Profiled I lear
  2. It helps to live in southwest MI where it rains 6 days in a week during spring time.
  3. I have been working on this knife for a couple of weekends and I found out after all the finish grinding was done that only about .25” up the bevel was hardened. So I said whatever screw it, normalized it twice and then quenched it waited the appropriate amount of time to get past the quench curve nose, clamped it between two boards. And it worked!!! Just a bit of decarb and the smallest of a wiggle in one spot that easily ground out. I’m putting this success down to luck . And I banged out the other one this morning also. And my dad, his friend and I moved his 2200 lb cast
  4. Thanks Lew L. Try staring at the big makers stuff for years and reading as much as you can in as many reputable places. Oh and lots and lots of work.
  5. Bottom two are ready for heat treat. The top I got the wrought iron guard fitted up and then ground it to shape. It’s ready for hand sanding and finish work.
  6. I think I’m going to make one of these as warm up for each session.
  7. For 1084 and 80crv2, peanut, canola, mineral, frying, and veggie oil all work fine. Probably can find them at a big store like Costco or maybe Walmart or Meijer. Plus those steels are very forgiving and easy to work with. Probably can get away with the 1095 if that’s all you have available.
  8. Finished up my kitchen tools and a smaller board for my brother.
  9. Finished the last one; walnut, maple, Padauk, and cherry.
  10. Thank you! I finished up those knives and started a new board for my dad for his birthday.
  11. I believe it’s the vinegar in the mustard that reacts with the iron and creates oxides that help prevent extreme rusting. I could be wrong about the vinegar being entirely responsible for the process. It can be dabbed on with a finger or with a cotton ball in a thin layer to create different patterns. Leave it on there for about 30-45 minutes or until the mustard turns dark brown then wash it off.
  12. Thank you, just 80crv2 with a mustard patina applied, no patternwelding.
  13. Finished these up, a 8” chef and a 4” utililty for my self and a paring knife for my dad. The steel is 80crv2 and the woods are wenge and cocobolo. I added a mustard patina for looks and some protection.
  14. Thank you Frosty! Cutting boards are really fun to make and when that first coat of oil is poured on, it’s just wow.
  15. I got a few items made in the past few months. All of them gifts for family. The boards the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th ones and I’m very happy how they turned out. For my mom, I made her two cutting boards and a santoku influenced kitchen knife. The end grain board is made out of cherry, Padauk, and Peruvian walnut. The other one is black walnut, Padauk and maple. They both are finished with food grade mineral oil and Howard’s Butcher Block Conditioner. The knife is 6.5” with Bubinga scales and is made out of 80crv2 with a mustard patina. For my sister, I made a nice big ~1
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