CreekSideForge

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About CreekSideForge

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vicksburg, MI
  • Interests
    Reading, Blacksmithing, Knifemaking, Mech. Eng. Student

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  1. CreekSideForge

    Winter Break Stuff (photo heavy)

    Thanks, I’ll keep that in mind.
  2. CreekSideForge

    Winter Break Stuff (photo heavy)

    I got a lot of practice making knives over break. Everyone wanting kitchen knives for Christmas which gave me a lot of opportunity to experiment. Learned a lot and no two knives are the same. With the first picture, I made a 8” chef knife out of 80crv2, a ~5” utility kitchen out of San mai wrought and 80crv2, 6” chef out of 80crv2, another ~4.5” utility, and a 3” paring. I learned that wrought is like literal butter when it’s nice and hot. I had to fight the urge to just grab and mold it like playdoh. I finished the paring and 6” chef in later photos. But the 8” one was a PITA to heat treat because it is bigger than my fire pot. I later ruined it grinding by putting pressure on the spine and getting it too thin. The second pic is just a little wip pic after I had drawn back the spines and tangs. That’s when I also set the shoulders for the hidden tang. The next few pics are of the 6” chef knife. The woods are zebra wood and wenge. I initially tried to chisel out the tang in the zebra wood, but didn’t like it very much so I just did a three piece construction which IMO looks better. Finished with a coat of Tung oil and then a coat of beeswax. The hard part was the grinding, I went to close to a finished edge thickness and didn’t take in account that hand sanding removes a bit of material. Therefore, the middle of the blade kept going past zero and would bring the width down in the middle. Plus, having an uneven graphite platen on my grizzly sucks, so I ordered a ceramic one. Mustard finish on the blade. Honestly, I think this is my best blade yet. This is the paring knife that is out of 80crv2 and zebra wood. Made it as a pair for the 6” one and gave both to my cousin. These last ones are how far I was able to get before I had to get back to school. All out of 80crv2, the first is another 8” chef, the next is a ~6.5” santoku style, next a ~6” chef and a 4.5” utilityish blade for the kitchen. Heat treat went fantastic, no warps or bends. One hour at 355 and one hour at 375 temper. Overall, I’m quite pleased on how much I got done. The santoku I forged and ground in about hour and a half, probably less, which is record time for me. Any and all criticisms/opinions are welcome. I want to get better!
  3. CreekSideForge

    Show me your Bottle Openers!

    I'm pretty sure it works fine, gave to my brother as a gift. He's the more of the beer lover than I am and I haven't heard any complaints. I like the music cleft idea! That would be cool to do.
  4. CreekSideForge

    Show me your Bottle Openers!

    Made this one awhile ago from coil spring.
  5. CreekSideForge

    Bowie for a buddie

    Thank you. Lou, the spine at the base is .135" and has a distal taper down to something. Can't remember off the top of my head, but I left the edge at the tip thicker to help a little. Its more of a slicer than a chopper.
  6. CreekSideForge

    Bowie for a buddie

    After a stupid amount of time and a restart, this is done. Started with a blade of 1084 that worked just fine up until the point where I decided to do the heat treat again because I wasn't satisfied with the first one. Bad idea because it was too thin by that point and the edge looked like it was Lake Michigan on a windy day. Restarted the blade using 80crv2, which worked just fine. Forging, heat treat and grinding went well. Anyway, the guard is 1084/15n20 with 12 layers twisted. The handle goes tiger striped maple, wenge and bubinga with a length of 4.5". It is finished with several coats of Tung oil and I will be putting wax on there also. The blade is 8 3/16" long by 1 3/8" wide and 1/8" thick. My friend loves it so I think it's a job well done.
  7. CreekSideForge

    First Hardy Tool Ever

    So I managed to grab some 2x1x3" H-13 blocks from work with the intention of making a hot cut and other tools, what would y'all say to that? I dont have anyway to do the proper heat or anything close to it. I've read that once it's done being forged, let it cool slowly (poor man's anneal), do the grinding , then take it up to a dullish red and put it somewhere safe to cool down for the heat treatment. That sound ok? I know most of you use jackhammer bits or torsion bars or axles but I don't have any of those available. Plus, I have 3 pieces so there's room for error and mess up.
  8. CreekSideForge

    Naturally Aspirated Ribbon Burner. Photo heavy.

    Hey Frosty, I have a quick question. Currently, I have a coal forge and a JABOD charcoal forge that I use to mainly make knives and other things. They work wonderfully for regular work and forge welding, but they're more difficult to use for heat treatment mainly due to having inconsistent heat and/or heat control. Therefore, I would like to build a gas forge to help with that problem. It would be out of a 20 lb propane tank out of the style of Wayne Coe, 2 layers of kaowool, kastolite,etc. The heat treatment would involve a baffle tube also. My question is: would you recommend a ribbon burner or a regular single port burner ? (I plan to use your T-burner or the NA ribbon burner)
  9. CreekSideForge

    JABOD

    Ok thanks! I'll try be more patient in the future. Seems to be the key to almost everything.
  10. CreekSideForge

    JABOD

    I had it running yesterday for about 5 hours and it worked fabulously. I moved the trench wall closer to the tuyere to about 4 inches away like Mr. Stevens has suggested and it worked much better. I also pretty sure I had it near welding temperature which is very nice to know. The box never got hot on the sides and the pipe was only warm about 4 inches out. There's a heat shield in front of the trench to keep my tongs from getting uncomfortably hot. About half way though I kinda converted to coal and it worked just as well as the charcoal. I didn't really find that much clinker in the bottom afterwards. I think I learned that I like coal more than charcoal, but that might just be because I have more experience with it. A question on charcoal: what size chunks do you guys put in the fire?
  11. CreekSideForge

    JABOD

    While I didn't get to fire up my box of dirt, I did clean up the whole place and added a bench to my setup. I'm going to light up tomorrow and stay out there all day.
  12. CreekSideForge

    JABOD

    And this it finished and fired up. It needs a little tweaking, a little smaller in the width I think. But it works! And I need to get used to charcoal also. That's kitty litter and ash mixed together with some water so that I could compact and shape it better. Heat treated this little knife while it was going and drew back the spine
  13. CreekSideForge

    JABOD

    Heres the start to my very own box of dirt. Dimensions without the dirt are 2x2 foot by 10" deep. With the dirt, it's 6 inches deep. I'm going to go with a trench and finish it off tomorrow. Just need the pipe for a tuyere and some cheap kitty litter for some clay. Going to mix some of the clay, sand, and ashes for the firepot. It's going to burn charcoal and wood at first or until I want to switch to coal which I have on and.
  14. CreekSideForge

    First patternwelded knife

    I haven't had any problems yet. I left it pretty rough on both the brass and the wood for good gripping surfaces. I used the five minute epoxy by Loctite, seems to work ok.
  15. CreekSideForge

    First patternwelded knife

    Well, here's another one in the works. Latticino- I tryed turning the blower off and it seems to have a better effect. Thank you for the tips