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thanks for the info guys. i've been learning tons lol i must be weird. I actually like strapping on the respirator and firing up the grinder

Hey gang, I got a hold of all these refractories for my single burner (3/4" T-burner) propane tank forge that I plan to build. I plan to put the 2600*f kaowool in the inner layer, and the 2300*f stuff on the outer layer. why both types? 2300*f was almost half price. 2sqft of 2600*F kaowool, 2sqft of 2300*F kaowool, one 500ml jar of ready mixed colloidal silica rigidizer, one 55# bag of MIZZOU CASTABLE PLUS, One gallon of premixed zirconium infrared coating (only $20, specifically called "ZK-W WASH") all this totalled to 145$ somehow! (5$ more than i was going to spend on one pint of itc100) I have a few questions. 1.) the zirconium wash's composition is as follows 97.5% ZrSiO4, 0.4% SiO2, 0.1% Al2O3. Is this normal/is any of this toxic cold or when heated/special precautions? 2.) I was told to pour (not trowel) the Mizzou in as thick a layer as possible ("it works better thicker"), up to 4 inches, and that a layer as thin as 1/2" would never work. is this correct? 3.) Should I mix this type of mizzou with Styrofoam to make it more insulating? 4.) is the 500ml jar of rigidizer enough for the propane tank forge? 5.) is there a good way to reduce the forge's internal diameter to the required 350 cu/in? I did the maths and I need to take off 1/2" from the radius. That's alot of questions, I know Thanks in advance

I was just settling on 4140, thanks!

Thanks everyone, but is there a preferrable steel out of the 3 i picked?

Which steel would be best for making all of the below; Hand hammers andSledges Swages, Fullers, and other hardies Punches and chisels I can get some 5160 as well for punches and chisels. Im not necessarily looking for the ideal steel, but one that can do all or most of the above solidly and effectively.

Keep it HOT! Dont forge below a bright red. The way I was taught to make leaves is as follows: taper, then half face blows quarter turn each time to get the neck. After this, flatten into a leaf shape. Once i have somewhat of a good neck, i like to use a smaller hammer and neck it the rest of the way and finish it. Also might want to put a bigger radius on the edges of the hammer or use a rounded face to make bad hits less obvious. Best of luck! I'm a newbie myself and only know anything at all cause i have had the priveledge of free tutelage of an experienced blacksmith. I have made i think 4 succesful leaves, and i have it down to a system. Keep it hot!

So what is the benefit to forging blades vs stock removal? I was also reading elsewhere in this forum that high carbon steels should be kept almost at a red black heat. How will i know if the alloy is degrading?

Oh bummer. Alright i'll have to head to the plumbing store

Getting a better understanding i think. This is from greenbayforge.com Forgings have grain oriented to shape for greater strength. Machined bar and plate may be more susceptible to fatigue and stress corrosion because machining cuts material grain pattern. In most cases, forging yields a grain structure oriented to the part shape, resulting in optimum strength, ductility and resistance to impact and fatigue.

Wow. What is the grain then? I thought it ran like the grains of wood laterally. Shows how much i know

How hot is too hot for 5160? Doesnt hot cutting just cut across the grain and remove the strength benefits of forged knives? Or am i way off on that

Ok. Yeah with the flame in the tube it made it so hot i could see the tempering colours on the tube. Thanks. I also have no idea the psi cause im just using a needle valve from a prpane stove, not a regulator.

I finally completed and tested my burner for this forge. 3/4" t-burner. I couldnt find a 1"x3/4" Tee so i used a 1" tee with a 3/4" reducer. My flare is a 3/4" coupler. It runs, but there is some turbulence and flame swirls back to the tee where i can see it. Clearly this is a problem. It also has a very motorboat soundingness untill the amount of gas hits a threshold, where it roars like a jet. I know this design should be able to sustain a flame all the way up the psi range so there are clearly some issues. Any help is appreciated. 20180128_180944_001.mp4

Thanks! The steel has been hard to hand work by hand. I plan on getting someone to strike for me. About the 01, i have beed reccomended it as an excellent beginner steel numerous times. Not sure whats going there

Thats amazing! I am nowhere near that meticulous!

Hey everyone, i have some leaf springs that i picked up that i want to practice on. I know a place where i can get unused ones too so there are no fractures. I have a charcoal forge and am building a propane one soon. I am very beginner and i have made one small pipe wrench knife so far. What tips do y'all have for forging leaf springs? I also plan to pick up some more reliable tool steels like 01 for practice. Also one more question, does burning high alloy chromium steel have create deadly chromates? I know chrome coatings are deadly for that reason

Got lots of hss horizontal mill cutters and broken drill bits

Thanks everyone! I now know exactly what i need to do. The refractory i spoke of is only rated to 2200 f. I'll talk to the people at the pottery store, they might have something i can use. They also sell alumina so maybe i could add it? I had a bit of a crazy idea for some hss damascus, if i was to take some hardfacing rods and fill the flutes of the drill bits and i have with the bead till it's a solid cylinder, then heat it up and twist it and then fold it a few times. We'll see! Heat treating would certainly be interesting

Havent done anything yet

Is it ok to let it air dry? Im afraid of sending out too many fibres in the firing process

Isn't it hard to trowel the refractory onto a flexible blanket?

How thick of a layer of castable do i need? What else can i do to prevent kaowool fibres from aerosoling?

I stand pseudocorrectedish?

Thanks! I just talk about the hss cause i got a whole bunch of horizontal mill cutters from my school machine shop so i wanna use them some day. I plan to head to the specialty metal store to pick up some of whatever strikes my fancy of the tool steels they have. I have already made one little knife out of a pipe wrench (more grind than forge) , and attempted to beat around some leaf springs. I'm lucky to have a specialty metal store nearby! For the castable refractory i think i can buy some "imperial" brand stuff in reasonable quantities. Has anyone heard of it? I also have a well supplied pottery supply store nearby so i'll pick up my rigidizer and kaowool there. They also have kaolin clay and kiln washes so ill talk to them. I would buy from w. Coe, but i dont like shipping stuff if i can buy it in person. I have a reusable 3M respirator with particulate cartridges installed. Is that sufficient for kaowool work? Side note-- is that also sufficient for bench grinder work? I have seen a youtuber wear a full face respirator with a belt mounted cartridge for grinding, is that overkill?