Pr3ssure

So I just got a Champion firepot and tuyere, both covered in rust. I wire brushed the firepot and got the nice patina to show, although I'm wondering how to get the rust out of the inside of the tuyere and off the clinker breaker. I know you can soak it in some things like vinegar or other acidic things but I was looking for a good way to get it without risk of damage.

Lol, it sure was. He’s a great guy. Makes me not care he’s the closest smith to me Being a little over an hour away. He had a 500lb Refflinghaus anvil there and showed me pictures of a 700lb one he just had there. The thing was a battleship.

So yesterday I went and got a fire pot, it’s a Champion 400. I didn’t have enough money to buy the 400 blower as well but I got the pot with the tuyere for 150 and could have got the blower for about the same. The guy had probably 10 working 400 blowers put up, so I can get one later. I want an electric one anyway, but would like a hand crank for backup/have to complete the whole Champion forge. I also got a hot cut hardy for my anvil and 2 pair of v bit tongs, one has broken reins but it will allow me to weld new ones once I feel competent. Now I just need to make a table to set this baby in and a blower to power it and I will be setup other than a post vice. Which the guy I went to has at least 15-20 nice ones, some missing springs but most are complete. He even let me owe him $25 and took my word I’d get it to him, wonderful man, wonderful smith. Photos are before fore and after wire cupping the fire pot with grinder. Need to find a way to get rust out of inside of tuyere.

if that anvil is 161lb it's almost the same anvil I have. Although yours is a little newer than mine but it's still a 161lb PW. Only thing mine has is the Peter Wright Patent and the numbers. Mine doesn't say England under, nor does it have the Solid Wrought around the second number. I can't remember exactly but that just means yours was made after a certain year where they had to put England on them, like 1910 or something like that. I estimated mine to be pre 1850 or 1860 since it doesn't have the Solid Wrought Stamp. Neat though to see that someone has almost the same exact anvil I have.

The only video I've ever found of a home made anvil is one where the guy had the entire body milled and welded on the feet and horn, all the others only have a partially welded face and body. Even the video where he welded from the inside out on the face it had zero ring and not much rebound. You're better off with a piece of track stood upright or just a big solid chunk of steel. Although for an art project, do whatever you want but for actual use you're probably better off with just a big chunk of steel. Most people don't realize that a real anvil is welded together with a welder, it's heated and forge welded to make one actual solid piece of steel. I wait patiently for the day to see the video of someone making an anvil by forging it. I did see a video once of 3 or 4 men forging an anvil in a giant power hammer but it was a small part of the forging and wasn't good quality.

I guess I’m not good at looking, I’m near the Morgantown are and couldbt find anything around here. Had to go to union town, PA to get my 161 lb Peter Wright.

Aside from going to the junk yard I was too late asking anyone I know if they had any scraps big enough. They all just took it to the yard. I just want to go to the steel supplier and have them cut them to the right sizes. I’m not very good with an angle grinder cut off wheel. i plan to make mine not as big as Alec’s and putting castable refractory on top of refractory wool for the top so the wool isn’t exposed and using bricks for the sides and putting wool behind it. Doing the same for the base as with the top. I don’t want to use wool only because I don’t want to replace the insides as much. Also im not tight on money for it so to say but I’m not able to spend the most. My dad is more than willing to help me come up with what I can’t. I mainly just was wondering if there’s any types of steel plates to stay away from and if I should get a certain thickness. I figured it wouldn’t matter much as it’s just a shell but I wanted some input before I buy anything. The closest Smith is 2 hours or so away and only going there once I didn’t want to call him to ask for advice.

So after a while or having my anvil nearly a year and not using it because the coal forge I tried to make just wasn’t sufficient in design, I’ve just been acquiring things I want/need. What I ultimately want to do is build my own gas forge, I may just buy the burners but making them isn’t out of the question. Anyway what type of steel should I try to get for the walls, roof and base of the forge? Basically what thickness would I want at a minimum and I’m not sure what kind of steel plates usually are. I’m going off of Alec Steele’s (youtuber) forge and burners. I want to make it right so it doesn’t end up failing me. I also want a coal forge but I’m not going to build another one because I want a decent/nice one and I’m not sure how much that will run me at the shop I got my anvil from, which is the closest one to me. It’s about 2 hours away from me. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the advice so far, I was only considering using the outgoing exhaust if I put an extra blower outside the house to pull out and be sure nothing went the wrong way. I wasn't really thinking about doing it as I have other options that would be easier, like a door and window. I just thought about it and wanted to know what others thought.

I was wondering if there is a certain diameter that the exhaust pipe has to be to get sufficient ventilation. I mean i know it can't be too small but how small is too small? I'm thinking about trying to turn a section of my basement into a temporary welding shop until I build one and when the weather doesn't permit being outside to smith. Would the exhaust pipe running outside from the air/heating unit be good? Basically hook up an exhaust and splice it to the one built into the house. Would that work?

from what I found out about my PW is that if it's not stamped "ENGLAND" than it is pre 1910. I also think if it has the Solid Wrought stamp it's after 1850 or 60 or something. There are a few other things I read about to tell the date but I can't remember. It's rather hard to find anything about them. That's a beautiful anvil though.

This is the best video I've found on case hardening

Thanks for the info guys, I ended up finding a new hickory sledge hammer handle I had here and I'm going to turn it into two handles. I'll have to try and think of something to do with this wood.

No I did not.

My dad said he thinks that what it is, I guess it could be nickel or something else. It looks shiny like chrome though but I'm not sure.

So one of the many things my dad brought me was some roughly 3x3 posts that were used as shipping pallets. They were from Africa, I'm wondering if anyone would know what kind of wood it may be. I'll go take a few pictures and put them up shortly. I'm thinking of trying to use it as hammer handles. He said it wasn't dried, so it was cut right before being sent and has since air dried, so it's not compromised from being kiln dried. There's a few pictures of two different pieces. I'm extremely bad at knowing what a tree is, so I'm not having any luck identifying with pictures of different types of wood online.

Yeah, I'd rather be able to do maintenance on most things myself. A little common sense and a quick google search and I have been able to do most anything. I just don't think I'll try playing electrician, at least not past installing new sockets and light switches. I've got a friend for that. but I think I'm going to fire up the forge in the morning and cut the little square bar my dad got in half and try forging some s hooks. I really need to mount my anvil though. So might be a productive day tomorrow on that front. If I do I'm going to make a new post with some pictures of hopefully some half decent S hooks.

I was wearing shoes when I was moving them but my feet starting sweating. So I took them off before I took the pictures. Thanks for the tip anyway. He said it was all from an electric box, like the big thin plate with holes, the bent pieces and the smaller rectangle. I'm not sure if the thicker bars were as well. Also, went to town today, got some nice safety glasses, some cutoff wheels for the grinder, a flap disc because there weren't any regular sandpaper ones but the flap disc takes wood off like nothing. Also some bolts to bolt my vise down and a nice little six foot Stanley Fat Max measuring tape. I've been installing new sink faucets for my mom all night, one in the kitchen and the two in her bathroom. Guess I'm adding "plumber" to my resume. LOL

Thanks for the info.

Yeah, that's the next thing I plan on buying. Well, my dad will probably find it for dirt cheap and buy it for me. The bench vise he got is a $300 wilton and he paid like $100. That's the only thing he actually paid for that he brought to me today.

Yeah, that's one thing I was reading online. Like hydrochloric acid I think.

I eventually want to make some knives so this will be some good accent metal for guards and what not. I just want to get the chrome off of it. There's probably like 10-15 pounds of it there.

Some giant chain, it's about 11 feet long. I'm not sure what these airbags are for, but there's four of those. This is all copper coated with chrome. Awesome new wilton bench vise. Another picture below. I didn't get a good picture of the diamond plate steel it's sitting on, but it's half inch thick diamond plate. This piece of steel is half inch thick. This is some kind of wheel from some industrial piece of equipment. There's 4 of them. There's also a nice craftsman angle grinder I didn't get a picture of.

all of that is chrome plated copper