Pr3ssure

I'm pretty sure that's what it was. The guy my dad got it from got the table top from a school and built the bottom/shelves. The whole thing is sturdy as can be. Thanks for the advice about the vises thomas. Definitely won't be used for anything heavy. I just like that they have the little flap that pushes up and the table has round holes drilled to put stops or holds or whatever they are called. Will be convenient for doing woodwork. Not sure if anyone remembersees the draw knife accident I had but it wouldn't have happened if I had the proper vise. Well, it wasn't just the vises fault but proper gear calls for proper technique.

Yeah, I've been in need of a large flat work area. The table top probably weighs 250 pounds or more. Its gonna get its use. I just couldnt believe it came with four of those vises. It was just given to my dad for me. Almost forgot I got an oxy acetylene setup as well. Old tanks but new hose and two torches with it. Already set it up and massacred a few pieces of defenseless metal. Lol

It's been a while since I've been on but my dad brought me in a few things. A new post Visa, 4 inch jars maybe 4 ½, cant remember. Its painted fire engine red and smells like an old barn. A nice heavy duty table saw. Its older and all metal but its rust free. Lastly a big old work bench. It's got like a 6x6 table top. Maybe bigger, with one vise on each corner. Only have pictures of the table and a vise that's on it. I'll post more of the other tomorrow.

Cool, that gives me a little more of an understanding. And i wasn't meaning to just set the whole weight of it on a table, just maybe have it to help with the load a little. Maybe thats not a good idea though. That illustration is a good one too. Ill have to look up what joists are though, have probably seen them before just didn't know thats what it was.

I honestly handent even thought about it yet but you said putting it on the forge, i shloud probably just make a table for it so i can just set it right up next to the forge and do one like that instead of hanging. Would help with making it sturdy too, I'd say.

Yeah, ive been away for a little while. As for where i can place it, ive basically just got a little back section of the garage to use since its not mine. As for the hole in the roof getting rain, i already figured im gonna use a skylight opening and use something to fill in any open space. Plywood or a sheet of metal. Im not positive but i dont think he will want me adding any holes to the building, although i can maybe go through the side of the building to run it up the outside which i think would be easiest. As for height its just an estimate but its in the 20 foot range give or take a few feet. The main thing about going straight up is im not sure how i would mount the stove pipe, ill need to take a look again but ill probably have to add some mounting spots or something. I was not able to get pictures before it got dark but ill update with some tomorrow. As always i appreciate your knowledge. I'm sure once i start really thinking about it and looking I'll figure something out though. It'll just be really nice if i can get it in before the snow comes and i can forge away from the elements. Also, not sure what a roof jack is. Im about to google it though. Unless youre talking about these things that kind of spin and a shaped to keep water from running in or one that is like a flattened tee pee kinda deal. Just looked up roof jack, not sure unless you actually mean one of those like beam jacks or something.

So, ive got a garage that i am aloud to build a chimney/hood in. Some advice is needed though. Ill get some pictures up for reference kater or tomorrow. Basically its an old golf cart garage for a golf course. Its a big steel building, probably about 70 by 30 feet floor space with probably 20 foot celing at the peak. There are several spots with windows/skylights, whatever its called. One of them doesnt have a window in it towards the back of the building. Its probably about 7 or so feet from the wall. My questions being the best way to hang/mount everything. I can maybe just mount it on the wall and do a 45 degree angle to get to the hole but i know straight is better. Although im not sure if they will want me to have the forge right up to the wall, they might want me to be directly under the skylight so if thats the case I'm not sure how i would go about mounting everything. I guess i could just run it up and at an angle, mount to the wall and then fo at an angle out but that seems like a lot. There is framework i could use to hang the hood but im jot sure about the ducts. Hopefully this isnt all too vague, i know the pictures will help with the analysis so i will try to get over there before it gets too dark.

My uncle is a mechanic and has ran his own shop since he got back from Vietnam. He has a lathe and mill and is pretty knowledgable with machining. I'm sure he's more than willing to teach me anything he knows. My neighbor who's garage I use to store my tools and forge has also worked a job with that kind of stuff before and has a lathe at his other house in New Mexico, he actually has some cutters in his basement here he said he was going to find for me. I'm not too worried about getting first hand experience since I know people who can show me. I mainly want to get a book to have a quick and easy reference for things like tolerance, threading, grind angles and all that stuff. I've seen on "This Old Tony's" youtube channel he references to one of his machining books every time he does a project when it comes to things like the cutters you need to do certain types of threads, or for cutting gears on an indexer, tolerances permitted on certain things, can't think of anything specific at the moment though. As for a community college, I'm not sure there is one around here although I've never searched for one but I've definitely never heard of one. I know there is a vo-tec school but they charge for classes. I'm not interested it paying for classes right now, as I've only got a little 6 inch atlas lathe I'm just trying to learn and mess around on. I would like to take one eventually if I can get the equipment and money to turn this into a career. Which is my ultimate "dream/goal" which is a long shot for me at the moment but I know I can make it work out with enough time, money and effort. Also, I just learned what a turret holder is for a lathe about 2 weeks ago. Those things look awesome and I'd probably want to get one when I get a nice lathe. Definitely seems like that the thing to have when you're doing any kind of production run if you're doing more than one of the same parts.

Thanks for all the replies, I've been a little busy and no on here for a bit. I've watched some videos that show about the geometry and purpose of the way the cutters are ground. So I have a lets call it, very basic idea of the gist of it. I'd like to make up a jig for getting the right angles on my bench grinder and get me a good wheel for it. I've not done anything with it for about a week but I've pretty much got my lathe all back together, I just have to order a piece off of eBay that I broke trying to get the handle off the top slide of the carriage. Also would like some new handles cause the middle one was replaced with a crappy round plastic piece and the top on was broken and was difficult to operate. Although it ran as it was when I got it, it should run like a dream comparatively. I found a set with a quick change tool post, 5 holders, 5 cutters (turning and facing), 9 piece boring bar set, some center drills, a chuck and another few odds and ends. Priced at $232, I figure it's well worth it, although I could just get the quick change post and the 5 holders for $164. I'll have to check some prices on everything it comes with and compare if the whole set is worth it or not. I figure it's at least not a waste of money for a nice beginner purchase to have a little of everything though. Also, what would be the best all around book to buy on machining? I've heard of the Machinists Handbook before but I'm sure there are others. I'm sure they can get pricey as well, although I'm not too concerned with price whenever it comes to having something that could teach me for a lifetime. I would like it to be not super complex though, something I could pick up and understand after a few reads preferably. I'd hate to buy a book and not understand any of it, as if it's another language all together. Knowing me though I'd end up buying it in another language and not realize it for a few pages. LMAO. and again, I appreciate everyone's input. Since my journey started in blacksmithing I've realized I love all metalwork. Trying to save up for a mill I can revive next

I've actually thought about using a 55 gallon drum and digging a fire pit to make my own charcoal to tryout. I've watched some extensive videos on the process and read about it. Doesn't seem too difficult to do in small quantities at least.

This may not be the best place for this, although I'm sure someone can give me a little info. So there is a 12x18 Starrett Pink Granite Surface Plate on Craigslist for $50, I looked it up and the cheapest I'm seeing one is $668 for that size. Is a granite plate suitable for work in the metal/machine shop? I'm pretty new to all this stuff and I honestly doubt I'd get any real use out of a surface plate right now since I'm not machining anything that has to be super precise. Although for $50 I don't think I can pass up the offer. Also if it's gone a little bit off of true, how hard or expensive would it be to true up again?

Got most of the Atlas 618 painted and put together. Just need to paint the part that the motor and motor pulley mounts on.

I figure my uncle knows how to sharpen them. I've watched some videos on it so I have the idea. I'll need to get a good plate with some angle reference on it.

I met my dad today and he brought me in a nice haul of goods. This cast iron belt/disc sander frame. Ended up paying $25 instead of the $50 asking price. Some oil cans. drill index full of bits, most look un used. All the paper packs have drill bits in them. Some look like they may be for a mill. All new. Cigar box will be nice for organizing. 3 combination squares, big clamp, tap wrench, Swedish needle file set. Clamp is drop forged USA made. Don't remember what brand was. It's heavy duty though. blower, might be a nice replacement on my coal forge, maybe not. Some files and a screw driver or two. A nice looking bench grinder. there are two boards, resin/epoxy with some kind of fiber in it. Not sure exactly what it is though. Sorry for such a big post, it's stuff my dads been getting for a few months for me. If needed feel free to turn into its own post. Didn't think about that at first.

I like that your vise is mounted to a 55 gallon drum. I'd say that's a good excuse to always have some scrap. "If it wasn't full of metal it would fall over!"

I've always had a fascination with taking things apart and putting them back together. I'm not sure why.

If it stops working and I ask when I should change it, my brain may be the one not working. The only reason I even asked is because it was a pain to do the first time, wasn't sure if it would have anything bad in it so I took it away from my yard.

Yeah, I didn't think about that the first time I took them out. I got them all the way in and they looked a little wonky. I felt stupid to think they didn't have a specific order. How so you like my home made chuck key? Used a bolt and some rebar.

I didn't think of it throwing the grease out. I got it all put back together, it's moving super smooth now.

The part that holds the metal.it comes apart, it's from an atlas 618 so it's old. They might not make them like this anymore.

So in the process of restoring my lathe I got the chuck completely apart. Should I just fill it with the oil I'm supposed to use to lube it or should I put some grease in before I seal it all up?

Alright, I've only done small parts so far. I changed it in between two of them, the rebar was fine though. I've gotta get the paint off the rest to do the big stuff.

When should I change the water after electrolysis rust removal? Not sure if it will eventually stop removing rust or what. Should I just add more wash powder and that would be good or should I switch the water completely after a day or so?

Yeah, they were originally old rusty rebar. With all the time i spent cleaning them up I`ll probably just go buy a 20 foot piece of rebar and cut it to lengths and put them up where they wont rust. it was a huge pain since they have that texture. i may eventually just get some square stock mild steel and that would be easy to clean with a flap disc. I`m loving it though, its working beautifully. The lathe will be good as new in no time now.

I got mine on amazon if that's available in Argentina. Like $22. Search butcher block brush, the brand is Winco, it's really nice