chimmike
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Everything posted by chimmike
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Very much like your build! I am not sure I would need the limit switches as you have them, if I get the kit I linked to and the 3hp motor. I will be building an I-beam frame to use as both a guide and massive structural rigidity.
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For example: Will this setup: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Log-Splitter-Build-Kit-13gpm-pump-4-cylinder-Detent-valve-mount-coupler-/281769690521?hash=item419ac84599:g:XcUAAOSw~gRVx-ZJ work with this motor, effectively? http://www.harborfreight.com/3-hp-compressor-duty-motor-68302.html or would this be a better choice? http://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-agricultural-farm-duty-motor-68288.html I'm not looking for perfection. Oh, and I know for that setup, I'd need to build an entirely new stand. I'm OK with that, and not worried about it, I just want to know if that pump/cylinder kit will work effectively with that motor. I'm not an engineer.
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Well, for what I want to do with steel I would prefer a press. Worst-case maybe I could get some suggestions on a pump and piston to use with a 1hp motor? With the knowledge that I OBVIOUSLY have to heavily reinforce the entire stand.
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So as a proof of concept I heated up a 1" diameter chunk of sway bar steel I have and was being stubborn on hammer/anvil, and without ANY modification to the press, was able to forge it down an effective amount. With the right setup, more accurate dies, and an air/hydraulic bottle jack in place, I suspect this could be quite useful to me for just a few bucks.
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The best I'm coming up with for now is the harbor freight 20 ton air/hydraulic bottle jack, then making the release mechanism a one-handed operation, then maybe adding a foot control for the air valve.
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well, I know I can't reheat while the billet is in the press, but I am trying to find a cost-effective way of forging down 1" and greater billets without hours on the hammer/anvil. if I can get a couple of forging presses on the shop press before having to reheat, that'll be great. Right now the bottle jack on the 12 ton press is manual operated, so I can do the very thing you're suggesting: pre-set the travel. However, if I can get a air-hydraulic bottle jack that has decent inch-per-minute movement, i'd like to do so and beef up the frame to allow more forging per billet heat.
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so I have a 12 ton shop press. What can I use to modify it to make an effective forging press? I know the air-actuated hydraulic bottle jacks can be rather slow....if speed is a concern with regards to needing to constantly re-heat, that's a sacrifice I am willing to make. however, if there's a reasonably priced higher-speed air actuated hydraulic bottle jack I can use, any suggestions? I can reinforce the frame of the press as needed. Just trying not to spend $1500 on this. Would prefer to spend 1/3 of that or less!
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Thank you. I'll have to get it cut (somehow) and heat it up and form up some tools to bend/create some effects on it. I see what you mean! I'm not an artist, so perhaps that's part of my problem :/
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OK Maybe I need to qualify. I'm a newbie. haha. My skill level (and tool collection) is limited.
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So I have a bunch of sheet steel laying around, 14ga, 16ga, stuff like that, in both mild and stainless. What can I do with this stuff other than cut it up cutely and weld into boxes or some mess? Totally out of ideas, and I think it's certainly too thin to properly 'smith'. Also have a 1" round bar length of 303 stainless, probably 12-14" of it. Wonder if I can cut it into a smaller piece, if it's possible to forge it out at all?
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what kind of tongs were you using and how hot was the material? Was it jumping around from your grip before bouncing into your face?
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Maybe OP has Adamantium ball bearing?
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When I got and built my steel work table (5/8" plate), I found somewhere on the web that said spraying WD40 on it, then heating the steel with a torch basically created a good layer of rustproofing. I did that on the top of the plate probably 5 years ago and it's been great since. Granted it's in a garage....but it's a non-ac garage in FL.
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Agreed. A pressure vessel does not necessarily equate to a vacuum chamber.
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Advice to newbies from a newbie
chimmike replied to Jack-O-Lantern's topic in Blacksmithing, General Discussion
That would be absolutely perfect. I need drifts, have no fullers, etc. Good practice forging too. -
Advice to newbies from a newbie
chimmike replied to Jack-O-Lantern's topic in Blacksmithing, General Discussion
I am encouraged by what I've found. A bunch of folks note they successfully made tools with sway bars, without quenching/hardening, just normalizing/air cooling. -
Advice to newbies from a newbie
chimmike replied to Jack-O-Lantern's topic in Blacksmithing, General Discussion
If we're going to talk about metallurgy, I have an old stock rear sway bar from a late-2000's model mazda sedan. I assume given the required tensile strength, it should be a relatively high carbon steel. Any idea what it might be? I suppose I could use it to make a drift and a couple hardie tools, but what about a knife? -
what psi do you use for forge welding heat in your 2 burner?
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Thank you!
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Interesting about wrapping chain and using a magnet under the heel. I'll definitely do the silicone. Should I also strap the anvil down on top of the adhesion effectiveness of the silicone, force the sound deadening into the wood too? I have seen chain around several folks' anvils and I always thought that was a hold-down method. I'll have to scrounge up some old chain somewhere. As for strapping the wood together, good point on wood glue or the like. Then I can just use basic straps and leave the mechanical adhesion to the glue. by the way-- Thanks!
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Hello. I'm new. I've done a ton of reading on here, elsewhere, watched youtube videos, etc. My NCtool 77lb anvil arrives shortly, and I want to build a stand for it. I'm considering strapping the 4x4's vertically to make the stand....but a little background. I live in a neighborhood where I like my neighbors and don't want to tick them off too much. What can I do to best deaden the sound as much as possible? Some sort of rubber pad under the anvil, then secure it to the 4x4's firmly? Is there another simpler stand I should attempt to make with 4x4's? Thank you