Jump to content
I Forge Iron

chimmike

Members
  • Posts

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by chimmike

  1. Very much like your build! I am not sure I would need the limit switches as you have them, if I get the kit I linked to and the 3hp motor. I will be building an I-beam frame to use as both a guide and massive structural rigidity.
  2. For example: Will this setup: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Log-Splitter-Build-Kit-13gpm-pump-4-cylinder-Detent-valve-mount-coupler-/281769690521?hash=item419ac84599:g:XcUAAOSw~gRVx-ZJ work with this motor, effectively? http://www.harborfreight.com/3-hp-compressor-duty-motor-68302.html or would this be a better choice? http://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-agricultural-farm-duty-motor-68288.html I'm not looking for perfection. Oh, and I know for that setup, I'd need to build an entirely new stand. I'm OK with that, and not worried about it, I just want to know if that pump/cylinder kit will work effectively with that motor. I'm not an engineer.
  3. Well, for what I want to do with steel I would prefer a press. Worst-case maybe I could get some suggestions on a pump and piston to use with a 1hp motor? With the knowledge that I OBVIOUSLY have to heavily reinforce the entire stand.
  4. So as a proof of concept I heated up a 1" diameter chunk of sway bar steel I have and was being stubborn on hammer/anvil, and without ANY modification to the press, was able to forge it down an effective amount. With the right setup, more accurate dies, and an air/hydraulic bottle jack in place, I suspect this could be quite useful to me for just a few bucks.
  5. The best I'm coming up with for now is the harbor freight 20 ton air/hydraulic bottle jack, then making the release mechanism a one-handed operation, then maybe adding a foot control for the air valve.
  6. well, I know I can't reheat while the billet is in the press, but I am trying to find a cost-effective way of forging down 1" and greater billets without hours on the hammer/anvil. if I can get a couple of forging presses on the shop press before having to reheat, that'll be great. Right now the bottle jack on the 12 ton press is manual operated, so I can do the very thing you're suggesting: pre-set the travel. However, if I can get a air-hydraulic bottle jack that has decent inch-per-minute movement, i'd like to do so and beef up the frame to allow more forging per billet heat.
  7. so I have a 12 ton shop press. What can I use to modify it to make an effective forging press? I know the air-actuated hydraulic bottle jacks can be rather slow....if speed is a concern with regards to needing to constantly re-heat, that's a sacrifice I am willing to make. however, if there's a reasonably priced higher-speed air actuated hydraulic bottle jack I can use, any suggestions? I can reinforce the frame of the press as needed. Just trying not to spend $1500 on this. Would prefer to spend 1/3 of that or less!
  8. Thank you. I'll have to get it cut (somehow) and heat it up and form up some tools to bend/create some effects on it. I see what you mean! I'm not an artist, so perhaps that's part of my problem :/
  9. OK Maybe I need to qualify. I'm a newbie. haha. My skill level (and tool collection) is limited.
  10. So I have a bunch of sheet steel laying around, 14ga, 16ga, stuff like that, in both mild and stainless. What can I do with this stuff other than cut it up cutely and weld into boxes or some mess? Totally out of ideas, and I think it's certainly too thin to properly 'smith'. Also have a 1" round bar length of 303 stainless, probably 12-14" of it. Wonder if I can cut it into a smaller piece, if it's possible to forge it out at all?
  11. what kind of tongs were you using and how hot was the material? Was it jumping around from your grip before bouncing into your face?
  12. When I got and built my steel work table (5/8" plate), I found somewhere on the web that said spraying WD40 on it, then heating the steel with a torch basically created a good layer of rustproofing. I did that on the top of the plate probably 5 years ago and it's been great since. Granted it's in a garage....but it's a non-ac garage in FL.
  13. Agreed. A pressure vessel does not necessarily equate to a vacuum chamber.
  14. That would be absolutely perfect. I need drifts, have no fullers, etc. Good practice forging too.
  15. I am encouraged by what I've found. A bunch of folks note they successfully made tools with sway bars, without quenching/hardening, just normalizing/air cooling.
  16. If we're going to talk about metallurgy, I have an old stock rear sway bar from a late-2000's model mazda sedan. I assume given the required tensile strength, it should be a relatively high carbon steel. Any idea what it might be? I suppose I could use it to make a drift and a couple hardie tools, but what about a knife?
  17. what psi do you use for forge welding heat in your 2 burner?
  18. Interesting about wrapping chain and using a magnet under the heel. I'll definitely do the silicone. Should I also strap the anvil down on top of the adhesion effectiveness of the silicone, force the sound deadening into the wood too? I have seen chain around several folks' anvils and I always thought that was a hold-down method. I'll have to scrounge up some old chain somewhere. As for strapping the wood together, good point on wood glue or the like. Then I can just use basic straps and leave the mechanical adhesion to the glue. by the way-- Thanks!
  19. Hello. I'm new. I've done a ton of reading on here, elsewhere, watched youtube videos, etc. My NCtool 77lb anvil arrives shortly, and I want to build a stand for it. I'm considering strapping the 4x4's vertically to make the stand....but a little background. I live in a neighborhood where I like my neighbors and don't want to tick them off too much. What can I do to best deaden the sound as much as possible? Some sort of rubber pad under the anvil, then secure it to the 4x4's firmly? Is there another simpler stand I should attempt to make with 4x4's? Thank you
×
×
  • Create New...