Adun Clebr

Thanks- it worked out great! Also thanks for catching/understanding I meant .023-.025 wire. My rookie mistake. Those 0.23-0.25 wire spools go in the BIG welders.

Those are some really cool peices, daswulf. Did you use 0.23-0.25 wire? Edit - I mean on the stainless wings.

If I can figure out how the forum runs, I'll go out and make you a video of me making a "beehive" fire; though I've never called it that. I've (tong) lifted the coked "shell", if you will, off the fire before just to try it. Re: your picture above , yes, that's about what it looks like with the exception that ideally it would have more fuel. The "blast" can be at any point around the fire. Yep, its hot. If you decide to walk across the street and heap green coal on the roaring forge as a fire containment as mentioned above - great! That's an excellent way to get this "hive" called fire. Come back (in a reasonable amount of time ), give the fire a steady breath of air, & poke a horizontal hole wherever you want to work from. This is hard to explain now that I'm the one explaining & I am just finishing up my first year of fire management training. As I need fuel , I just chip away at the shell, maintaining the single opening to work in. My setup is similar to your setup in the picture. I use bituminous smithing coal & I agree with Reynolds on most points, but I don't have to wear gloves. I also just listen to when the fire is ready; then I poke my work opening. Brad

Pass along your knowledge to whoever you can ; this is a nice accomplishment you have here. Thanks for posting this. Way off topic , but I can't help but think...wasn't there a rapper who wore huge clocks around his neck? He needs one of these...

"And-veal" is how I says it. There's a long pause where the dash is... Veal has two syllables, in this pronunciation, so I say option #1 and option #2 simultaneously.

Hidiy - Cool projects; you can forge the lance as if it was a candle holder, or something with a leaf on the end, et cetera , drawing out the "cone" material on the end of your material opposite the finial/poker end. If it is to be one piece. You'll need the bossman's geometry above in any case , but if the cone is independent of the staff and the spear (3 pcs total) there are multiple options. Paper/flexible templates are a huge help. If the spear pictured is available, you can make a pattern from its cone: wrap it with saran wrap/cling wrap, tape over the cling wrap with fiber backed shipping tape (all the way around, criss-crossing the tape), then carefully cut the pattern off exactly the size of the cone. Something called a flexible shape pattern I believe. Brad

My thoughts exactly... Unless you just want to use it to make a hammer, those are easily $120.00+ bits (new). So, if you got it at scrapyard price... Anyhow- please post your hammer-making progress; that's cool, too.

I missed what y'all are talking about, but my compliments on your leafy nail hooks. Nice work. The top one pictured reminds me of a rattlesnake on the move. Brad

CIK- I hope the info helps. Just knock out a few pictures & post them here to see how they are. It seems like the forum allows pictures to be posted. One point I would like to add stems from the "a picture's worth a thousand words" mantra/saying... A video is worth a thousand pictures. If you use apple products, you could look into FaceTime to video-talk to your kids' kids. I'm sure there are plenty of applications out there. JHCC's lighting tip is an excellent one; I'll add "Clean up your shop." The first time I tried to show off some projects, all I heard back was a commentary on items in the background. Just something to be aware of... Brad

I'm assuming the trail camera is one used to scope out green fields and hunting spots, et cetera ; usually they are object sensitive to take photos on movement/light changes. Not the best choice for your situation, but if it's all you have it will definitely work. Set it to burst shots or video mode & turn the IR sensitivity way down. Place the camera high up where the pictures can capture the most view of what's going on down below . You can crop them later, but you can't add what it didn't capture. Most other point & shoot/DSLR cameras have a threaded hole in them for affixing to a tripod. If you can get one of those to use (or even a smartphone) that'd be the ticket. You can set them to timer mode for some shots, or just video yourself and crop images out later. From an optical standpoint, an IR lense filter would be a good idea anyway, but you will not harm your trail camera by the light (it will only confuse it). Good luck man... I guess the pictures prove we were here! Brad