Reversepolarity
Members-
Posts
32 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Profile Information
-
Location
Washington State
Recent Profile Visitors
The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.
-
Found another one
Reversepolarity replied to Reversepolarity's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
Thanks for the info. my first trenton. Really liking it. -
That block is a dandy!
-
Found another one
Reversepolarity replied to Reversepolarity's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
-
Found another one
Reversepolarity replied to Reversepolarity's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
It is a cast base. what year would that put this anvil at? -
Found another one
Reversepolarity replied to Reversepolarity's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
The logo stamp is pretty worn. I can tell that the N is not like an X like most Trentons that I have seen. As far as the serial number goes, I cannot tell if the first number is a one. Or if it is just a weird spot on the foot. What age would you put on this anvil? -
Found another one
Reversepolarity replied to Reversepolarity's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
I am not worried about the face at all. Rings fine, and rebounds at 75-80% Maybe the paint exagerates the line. Serial number is 165236 -
Stopped by a flea market over the weekend. After inquiring about blacksmith tools. A vendor mentioned he had some stuff at home. After meeting at his place, and a little negotiating. I walked away with a 123 pound Trenton, Warren tool 3/4 fuller, and 3 pairs of tongs. Someone had painted it silver at some point. But it cleaned up easy enough.
-
Nice job! How long are those, and are you getting any flex? I work in an industrial sheetmetal shop. We hand layout all fittings , and parts. My dividers are my most used hand tool.
-
Vertical weld at floor level
Reversepolarity replied to John in Oly, WA's topic in Welding/Fab General Discussion
As was mentioned clamp the rod in the end of the stinger, or bend the rod as needed. Straight in is fine for rod angle. Hold longer on the edges, and move quickly throught the middle. That will flatten the bead out. 7018 is to be ran vertical up. Also swivel the rod to aim at the edges, don't just weave side to side. Your 6010 rod would also be suitable. -
That Prentiss is a DANDY!
-
What electrode to use on wrought iron?
Reversepolarity replied to DannyD's topic in Welding/Fab General Discussion
Very true. Most guys at welding supply stores have no experience. I have had great luck stick welding wrought iron. I use a small rod 3/32" 7014 or 7018 Also run at the low end of the heat. Just enough amperage to keep the rod from sticking. Really watch the puddle and react accordingly. The slag formation behind the puddle will be a little different than welding mild steel, but you will get the hang of it. Another key thing I have found repairing wrought iron is the prep work. Clean the joint with a wire wheel. The cleaner the better. -
Indeed those are the weight, and date stamps
-
I paid $300, I was happy at $2 per pound There is one for sale right now (Craigslist) in Seattle right now for $400 also The last few I have seen for sale around here were $600-$800 for this size, and they sold at those prices. Patience always pays off.
-
Finally found an AFFORDABLE swage block on Craigslist. 15"x15"x4" Got the stand put together today, just have to paint it.
-
Without a makers mark on it. It is pretty hard to ID. Looks to be in great shape