Ron Hicks

Very Nice Hangs on wall Good job Ron

I took a couple pictures of the hood My welding not the best my first time . I think Ive got good welds my beads are uneven in places, no holes. I did blow a hole in the front but filled it.It squared up pretty good. I cut it out with the torch also 3/16 mild steel. Out of Acetyleen need to cut top out and weld colar for 12 in pipe Hope it works Ron

Harris torch - the one tip I have is a #3 for 1/16 plate Harris recomend settings of 3 Oxygen - 3 Acetylene That setting worked good on the 3/32 plate all welds were outside corners no rod used just basic welding. habu I thought as you use Oxyacetyleen the voluem of gas was allways changing in the bottles- every time you shut off or during lots of use you had to reset preasures because the voluem of the fule was less? Ill check into the backflow Valves - ive been trin to keep a little more Oxygen presure than Acetyleen doesnt that help stop back flow? Ok maybe I read it worng I assume you need the backflow Valves for the auto shut off OK. Bear with me trin to be safe Ron

That looks good how and where do you mount it. It has a pilot light flame tell me about it Ron

Like I say Im just starting after posting was thinking about it I had used it for some other things but It sure went quick. Ive had this torch about 7 years but have just started using it. Ive been lucky and so glad last week I bought the book - Welding by Don Geary. Its about Oxyacetylene welding. I thought I knew enough to learn Oxyacetylene on my own. Ha! I did not have a clue - about all I knew was tall bottle Oxygen -short bottle Acetylene. After reading 3/4 of the book I took soapy water and check for leaks-the conection to the bottle vavle on both were leaking Acetylene was bad. Im sure that is where my Acetylene went. Took off regulators wiped everything off, check over the threads, cracked both bottles and replaced . Just to be safe took off lines and did same with them,went over everything cleaning & checking fittings.Then did the soap test regulator to bottle first then the lines. Leak free That wasnt the only dumb mistake I did not know about Acetylene not to ever run over 15 lbs. Or Oxygen coming in contact with oil and grease. Its a wonder I wasnt blown to bits. Just thought I would tell on myself -Dont do like I did, I was lucky get a book take a class learn from someone.Be Safe , or they will be scraping hambuger off whats left of you shop walls. I need to get some saftey stuff and a new work coat. I was welding Sunday my old Carhart on unzipped kept smelling something. Had goggles on and did not see the smoke until I stoped. My coat was touching the other side where I was welding . Now I have a baseball size hole in it. I know what burning Carhart smells like now:o Im learnin Ron

Ever hear of off center turning?you say you turned the handle I assume you have a lathe. I saw mine out and use a big rasp work pretty good- I have turned a few though Did you forge that down with a hand held hammer?

Dadgum it ! I ran out of Acetylene I have it all welded all I need to do is cut my hole in the top and weld on a colar for my 12 in. pipe. It will be later on in the week before I can get to town for Acetylene. Im just learning how to cut and weld with Oxyacetylene. How many hours should I get from a 100 cubic foot Acetylene?Im guessing what I used maybe 5 hrs. cutting & 6 hrs. welding Runing Oxy 20 - 40 lbs. Acetylene 3-5 lbs Oxy. is 122 cubic foot - I have 1000 lbs left in the Oxy.think that would run another 100 cubic foot Acetylene?? I had made a stand to hold my torch while burning (bad idea)- I need to shut it off when not in use even if its just to clamp or move something. Thanks Ron

The Glasses I ordered seemed a good price to me. I would like to get a pair #5 lens also same brand & style, maybe Jock can get them for me. Jock was the the only place I could find with Bouton in that style.

Thanks everyone for the info.

Thanks Otis Ill keep the HVAC supply in mind about the pipe. I have cut my materail to size for 12 in. pipe Im going through a tin shed roof no wood. Im going to try single wall black stove pipe inside & maybe galv.outside Hope to get the hood put together Sunday. Thanks Ron

NIce steak flipper & Candle Holders. I have had that rusty lookin thing happen to me also. Ron

Phil Nice hood is that SS? Good looking welding also What gauge did you use? Ron

HWooldrige Thanks for the pic. I think you are right about the big pipe I like yours it doesnt have that big box How big is the hopper? I found some hoods here + the brick top table forges really caught my eye. The hoods havent that much materail in them. I may just make one with the hood and put my old forge away. Student Forges in the Shop of Donald Stanley

Sorry to hassel every one I was looking tring to find more on Side Drafts looking at the I Forge Iron home page blueprints December 5, 2006 If you missed the Blueprints, we made a made a vase holder, a look at a side draft forge hood, a drift from a kitchen knife sharpening steel and a way to set up a lathe for long stock. Thank you Irnsrgn for the donation of the door prize. I cant seem to find anything about the side draft hood I sure would like to see it Thank You Ron

Ha Ha Ha If you could just see my shop/shed/cobbled up thing with tin nailed on it. It just barely keeps the rain off my head- Its not to tight - yes I have a CO detector- I guess I was runin it rich so not to scale as bad . I went and bought some Heads and Tails today at the metal supply today 380 pounds 2 sheets. 1 sheet was 4ft. X 7 ft. maybe 7 ga. & 1 sheet 4ft. X 9ft.maybe 13 ga. Heads & Tails are cut offs from the ends of rolls .25 cents a pound New sheet 4X8 11 ga. was like $93.00 ea. So much for making the hood light weight - Im going to do something right or worng. I think I will do something like the ones in the links posted thanks again Gary Looks like they work really good. Ill try the rain pipe Ted thanks bet it works Thanks everyone Its nice everyone offering help I for sure need it Gota get to work now Thanks Ron

Gary Thanks for the link maybe I read it wrong - the smoke shelf helps with the draw and back drafts. I think the main thing is to make sure the closed down opening of the smoke shelf is bigger than the flue opening to work right. + it speeds up the draft. A gas forge indoors needs a hood or something to draw out the carbon monoxide so you wont turn beet red & die. I have a gas forge even with windows & doors open with fan blowing it still bothers me. Ron

I havent a problem with the the pipe gettin hot its going through a tin roof on a shed -no wood near where its going . I thought I would make a box that sits beside the fire pot wide as the forge with a smoke shelf to help the draft. Opening in front as wide as the fire pot sq. Come off the top of the box straight up through the roof and above the ridge and make the box just deep enough for the pipe to fit over a collar. Maybe tapper the sides in to the pipe some. Thinking about making it free standing so if I could move it outside if I wnated to.

Your right the sand thing is a bad idea wasnt thinking used that bending cold copper. Dont do that Sorry Ron

I guess notching it would work Ive done lots of bends like that with wood.Its called kerf bending- Maybe cut with a hot saw through 3 sides and try this: Make a cut with your saw and clamp it by the cut Mark off a line equal to the raidus -from the kerf and rise the free end of the workpiece from the bench top until the kerf is closed. Measure the gap between ( the end of the line you drawn "equal to the length of raidus" and the bench) This will give you the space between kerfs for a smooth bend Ive never tried it with steel works with wood might give it a try Ron

I guess for the bent part U could use soild 1in. sq.?

Do you think packing sand in the tube might work? I think you can bend copper round tube with sand- might need to plug the ends - Just an Idea