Ron Hicks

Ha Ha Ha If you could just see my shop/shed/cobbled up thing with tin nailed on it. It just barely keeps the rain off my head- Its not to tight - yes I have a CO detector- I guess I was runin it rich so not to scale as bad . I went and bought some Heads and Tails today at the metal supply today 380 pounds 2 sheets. 1 sheet was 4ft. X 7 ft. maybe 7 ga. & 1 sheet 4ft. X 9ft.maybe 13 ga. Heads & Tails are cut offs from the ends of rolls .25 cents a pound New sheet 4X8 11 ga. was like $93.00 ea. So much for making the hood light weight - Im going to do something right or worng. I think I will do something like the ones in the links posted thanks again Gary Looks like they work really good. Ill try the rain pipe Ted thanks bet it works Thanks everyone Its nice everyone offering help I for sure need it Gota get to work now Thanks Ron

Gary Thanks for the link maybe I read it wrong - the smoke shelf helps with the draw and back drafts. I think the main thing is to make sure the closed down opening of the smoke shelf is bigger than the flue opening to work right. + it speeds up the draft. A gas forge indoors needs a hood or something to draw out the carbon monoxide so you wont turn beet red & die. I have a gas forge even with windows & doors open with fan blowing it still bothers me. Ron

I havent a problem with the the pipe gettin hot its going through a tin roof on a shed -no wood near where its going . I thought I would make a box that sits beside the fire pot wide as the forge with a smoke shelf to help the draft. Opening in front as wide as the fire pot sq. Come off the top of the box straight up through the roof and above the ridge and make the box just deep enough for the pipe to fit over a collar. Maybe tapper the sides in to the pipe some. Thinking about making it free standing so if I could move it outside if I wnated to.

Your right the sand thing is a bad idea wasnt thinking used that bending cold copper. Dont do that Sorry Ron

I guess notching it would work Ive done lots of bends like that with wood.Its called kerf bending- Maybe cut with a hot saw through 3 sides and try this: Make a cut with your saw and clamp it by the cut Mark off a line equal to the raidus -from the kerf and rise the free end of the workpiece from the bench top until the kerf is closed. Measure the gap between ( the end of the line you drawn "equal to the length of raidus" and the bench) This will give you the space between kerfs for a smooth bend Ive never tried it with steel works with wood might give it a try Ron

I guess for the bent part U could use soild 1in. sq.?

Do you think packing sand in the tube might work? I think you can bend copper round tube with sand- might need to plug the ends - Just an Idea

I had some old crusty 6in pipe and gave it a try thats works ends up about 12in dia. This is the forge I want to make the side draft for The opening does it need to sit on the edge of the fire pot? I have about 8in. on the right side . I thought I would do a box with a smoke shelf What do you think? Ron

I thought I may get some of the 6 in - take it apart using 2 to make one might be more work than it worth. Could a sheet metal shop make 10in pipe ?

I want to make a side draft hood- Ive read that most use 10 in. dia. pipe so it draws better. I called a few places and all they have is 6in. and 8 in. pipe. I will not have any help & wasnt wanting it to weigh a ton. Is there like a tin walled pipe I can get from my local Iron & Metal Supply? How thick of materail shoud I use for the hood- I will be using oxyacetylene to weld with. Thought maybe angle iron and sheet iron Thanks Ron

Julian I think the one pic. you are talkin about I had not complety cleaned to muck off from hardening. Just enough to temper -some of the color is from the temper also. There is lots of things you can do to age a blade -I havent done much of that though. A few things you might try are : Mustard just daub it on - Bleach - leave it outside and rust- I think some use acids but not sure what or how. It depends on what the knife is made from I guess.

Archie Glad nothing burnt & everyones OK When I first see the title a out of control corn fire pop into my mind:o sorry just kidin. Yea you got to watch ashes Ive done about the same thing I put them in a plastic 5 gal bucket and set it outside. I lucked out and caught it about the time the bucket melted. Coals will smolder for a long time - If you had an lid that fit tight enough to cut the air off it might help. For sure sit them some where safe. How about a {clean safe} 55 gal. barrel with a lid that would work would not matter if there were coals. Lots of people been hurt bad messin with Barrels be sure to get one that hasent been use for solvent or such they will blow up.

Hey Frog Just wondering If you tried the anvil stand? Does it have a good rebound?

Ive read RR Track makes better tools for the anvil than an anvil - do a search on the net for RR Track Anvils I have a big hunk thought I may make a bricken , I dont know how to use a bricken but it would be somethin new to trip over instead of RR Track . Have you not look at used anvils? I pass on a bunch of good old anvils that were chiped and abused- which now I think would have been just fine. Now Im beatin up a new anvil trin to learn. Ron

I finally got a hold of Jock and ordered the 3 pair special 1 green 2 clear Whats with all the Buck Rogers saftey glasses ? Things have really changed in the past 20 years. This is what REAL safety glasses look like Just like Grandads Ron Bouton 5907 series wire side shield safety glasses 5907 Series safety spectacles meet ANSI Z87.1-1989 and are recommended for work requiring impact resistance and side protection from flying debris. Patented U-Fit temples Dual replaceable lenses Universal Bridge Long-lasting heavy duty metal hinges Blocks 100% U.V. Non-fogging wire side shields Meets ANSI, CSA, and UL Standard These have been the guru's safety glasses of choice for over 25 years. The snug fitting side shields not only protect but give one a sense of security. #2 Green Filter Lenses are recommended for flash glasses, foundry work and small forging. For those looking for eye protection while forge welding or working at a gas forge these are the best possible selection. They are dark enough to protect and not so dark as to make it difficult to work. ANSI Z87.1 recommends #3 shades (darker than the above) for brazing and light welding with a torch.

Thanks Don I can see it now Nice I like it Ron

Thanks guys good info.

I need Safety Glasses I want Bouton 5900 series, a clear pair & a pair of the green filter lenses. I went to the Anvil fire store but nothing seems to work also looked on the net. All I have found were furity lookin Glasses :cool: . Any one know where I can get some real Safety Glasses Ron

Don What I can see really like it pic is dark- could you lighten it up really want to see it. what size is it? Nice Ron

Nice Axes how did you shape the eye? did you make a drft or just use a big punch Ron

Thanks for the fix Glenn

Sorry about the big picture I would fix it but no edit

I made these today from a old crowbar - no handles yet maybe tomarrow. I tried to make a drift from a RR spike it did not work so good. I had a big tappered punch and used it to make the holes round then use another drift I had tried to make & narrowed - lengthened the holes. Thought I would harden and temper to spring temper? They are pretty rough lookin Hey could some one show me a drift so I might make one that works:) The punch is 1/4 in on the end The other ( not sure what its called) not a side set but the thing you start to neck down with ? I dont know what Im doin Tell me what you think Ron

BP1001 Holding the hammer BP1002 Swinging the hammer BP1004 Woop Tongs BP1006 Tong Clips BP1007 Hot Cut Hardie BP1010 Forging a point BP0372 Handled Punch BP0382 Offset Bend 2