Panday

Pricing is weird. I've been in involved in various forms of entreprenurial enterprise since I was 12 over 2 decades ago. While pricing too high can obviously scare off potential buyers pricing too low can do the same thing. I had a friend when I first started out that was doing a lot of swap meets and craft sales. I sent them off with about 20 leaf keychains, and long story short, they sold better priced at $10 than they did at $5.

You would be wrong sir. There are brake drums/rotors for high performance specifications made from steel. (Steel rotors being much more common.) I've found reference to specialty "lightweight drums" for Semi-Truck applications made from steel. Case in point.... http://www.kic-group.com/trident.html I was just wondering if it was specialty applications only, or a standard material.

I actually just got an idea that will be more stable/reliable than welding or bolting regardless. I'll update in the next day or so. For the XXXXXXX of it, I'm also going to cut a piece off and try to forge it. That will probably be the simplest and most reliable way to tell short of lab testing. (spending my time making attempts to hassle manufacturers not withstanding) Watch the language, and read the Tos. this is a G Rated family friendly forum. please follow the rules if you wish to remain here.

Not really forks, just posts. I was posting between projects on a break and not communicating clearly. *Random Google image search for what I was thinking.

That needs to be on the "Pearls" thread.

No, not at all. Just surprised by your response.

Your enthusiasm is inspired.

That would work for most purposes, but I need to make a rest for a post vise at, or near, ground level. I'm not sure how to do that using existing holes without really over complicating it.

I just don't like the looks of the stuff. Actually, I'm not sure if its that, or that I see so much of it that II feel like its over used.

Maybe make an arch with "forks" straddling the bits. Then drill/tap the forks and add set screws. Or just u-bolts. That's what my mind sees anyway.

Any of you know if these are made from steel or iron? At 100+ pounds a piece I'd like to use them for bases/stands. Possibly a semi-portable vise. (Pun intended) I know steel is a bit of a long shot, but given the nature of use, it would not be surprising. I just want to know if I should drill/bolt it together it if I might get away welding most of it.

I couldn't say really, don't have enough experience with forging it to really say. This stuff forged pretty easy for me, but its also only 1/2" bar, and I'm one of those guys that can forge 1/2" to a point in one heat.

Full power? No, not even close. Maybe only a third power while drifting. But swinging at 100% is dangerous IMO. I slit/drift with tools I made specifically for this purpose, and a 3lb hammer, but that only opens it up enough to finish opening and clean up the ring on the bick of the anvil. The rest I do with a 1.5# cross pien. I also forge them round (or round-ish) over the bick, but I make the oval shape by hanging the ring over the far side and using careful hammering to "push" the ring into shape.

They're nothing fancy to be sure at 10mins/ea. I've been trying to make some to have more stuff under $20 on the table and still making a decent return. So the finished product is fairly rough, but at 6/hr I don't have any qualms selling them for $15. This is the first (and last) time I've made them from rebar. This particular stick had a unique pattern I wanted to do something with, otherwise I'm usually a bit more than indifferent to anything from rebar.

Did not know that. I've only forge welded leaf a few times, but never had a problem getting it to stick.

How long does it take you guys to make a basic opener? I seem to have maxed out at around 6 an hour if I do 3 at a time.

Huh, I didn't know there was an issue with forge welding leaf spring. Is it false/cold sticks (unsure the correct terminology) or wholesale failure?

You're using too much. Too much heat, too much wax. Sometimes less is more.

They may not even be marks from another hammer, could just be a soft temper that marks easily. I have a cheap hammer that is used for general purpose around the house with faces that dent when hitting... well... any sort of cold metallic object.

I have 2-3 ground that way for this exact purpose. I can just about cut 16ga faster than I can with a reciprocating saw. Dang sure more accurately too, lol.

I didn't start "smithing" until I was in my 20's but I first learned how drive a forklift and weld with a O/A torch when I was 11. I pretty well lived in a fabrication shop from then until I was old enough to drink.

I hate some of you guys. Seriously.

Wow, that's a lot heavier stuff than what it looked like in your other thread. Did you ever weigh it? What was the reasoning for scalloping the side to the shape of the anvil?

That looks nice. I've been wanting to make some fireplace tool sets, but I can never decide on a style I can do reasonably with my present tooling. Speaking of tooling. Can you share any info about that behemoth anvil stand of yours?

That's cool. I'd love to have one for holding electrical parts while soldering. Can anyone say what the appropriate term for that type of vise is? I suppose a guy could make one that small pretty easy too. I have some 5/8" plate and a busted bench vise I can scavenge the screw from.