Cary Brief

Dont have my old thermocouple and looking for anew one for measuring omelt temps. Wondering what brands or models others are using? Has anyone built their own? I have some unused can you type them a couple wiring pieces without gauges but as far as everything I've read and used in the past you need some sort of ceramic tube to sit in the crucible. Has anybody used the laser noncontact types

I did not read every post but did not hear about your fuel. As far as Portland cement, from my knowledge this is not normally used in furnace construction

If you havent found anyone i can do it. Many years casting both lost wax and sand. Located in S. Florida

Hi all - I saw in this post a mention of a burner Frosty designed - is that right? where can i get the design? Thanks

how do you flare it the 12 degrees? I have the tubing, wondering what the best way to do it is? thanks

thanks Frosty I appreciate your information - I am not trying to reinvent the wheel - I am on a budget and having lots of DE would make it free instead of $40-$50 for a gallon - I am located in Miami FL. However I did a lot of research (I am disabled and have lots of time) and it turns out that the majority of rigidizers are simply colloidal silica. some have additional additives most do not. I read the MSDS sheets. Since I do not know about these items in this particular use - why is colloidal silica a poor choice, what is wrong with the amorphous silicates? I would really like to know- I have used similar products on my burnout furnaces - the bottles came with the furnace, never knew what the material was. I found many people using this particular product for just this use, and they have been using it for many years. http://www.remet.com/range/colloidal-silica/

i cannot find anyone within driving distance wondering if anyone (might have asked this heere already - trying to get it done asap) I have DE (diamataceous earth) that I have read can be used, also colloidal fumed silica - easy to get at any boat store. supposedly that is what is in the rigidizers they sell - just can't get any rock solid info. hate to put any junk on the wool - as it is not cheap! thanks

hi frosty - tiring to do this right and safe. Building my forge per the zoeller instructions using a 5 gallon metal can. Bought 1" kaowool and have two layers in. Started reading about putting the Itc 100 and found out I needed rigidizer. Wondered about using a slip of DE. Or west marine's colloidal silica but can't seem to get clear information. Trying to do this on a budget - so can u suggest the best/ correct /safest way to rigidize the wool b4 coating with itc100? Thanks much Cary

thanks all - any suggestions on a stiffener? I didn't purchase any when I bought the blanket - didn't know I needed it. Do you use it on the entire blanket before coating with itc-100 or just on the flare hole? again thanks for your good information

Hello All, just putting together my first forge - a Zoeller 5 gallon metal bucket forge. got the 2 layers of 1" kaowool in place and built a Dave Hammer burner. haven't had time to make the tooling to flare the SS tubing for the nozzle and I remember reading (but can't find - the reason for my post) about forming the"nozzle out of the wool, and coating it with ITC 100 instead of using the SS tubing. Am I remembering this correctly? If so can anyone explain - I think I got it, but would love to hear what you all have to say. Also - any suggestions for coating everything with the ITC 100 would be helpful. i have used it on my casting furnace - so I know how to mix it but never used it on wool. do you coat the edge where the door closes? I would think the non coated wool would make a nice closure BUT I think it would degrade not being coated, adding fibers to the air. Thanks. Cary in Miami - where it is hot enough already.

Hello all, just about got all my stuff ready to build my first propane forge - my 0-40 psi regulator and hose came in today. have not been able to find a 0-40 gauge anywhere - does anyone know if I can use a 0-60 gauge? i would think so but I just don't like to guess with fuel gas. Here is a good reason for testing your lines each time. I was teaching a casting class this weekend, and when going over who to light the blast furnace, (and testing each fitting with soapy water) we heard gas when we should not have. someone ran over the lighting line (flexible line) and put a pinhole in it. had we not checked it could have been bad. It really showed the students how checking is no joke.

i will give it a try! thanks

It was suggested by someone I trust that my next furnace (to cast a minimum of 50#) a pour should be a tilting one - I agree - I have a 21" diameter compressor tank to make that and my muller - but looking for plans. Chastain has a book but cant find a copy - they want $700+ on Amazon for it. and as much as $2k! anyone have any designs they can share? Thanks.

thanks for putting a name to my burner - I asked around in other forums, with photos and no one gave it any name at all. I personally love it - and many casters and blacksmiths have commented on how nicely it operates.

I called him and he was very helpful and an absolute gentleman.

I purchased a point of ITC 100 from Anvilfire and followed the instructions very carefully. I did have a few questions and I asked Jock and did what he said. After I coded it I let it air dry with a lightbulb for five days and then did a firing my furnace is a propane furnace that holds a number six crucible. Today's the first day I saw it since the filing and on the interior of the furnace the coating has separated and some of it is falling off I can't get in touch with jock. Seems somethings wrong with his website wondering if anybody has any suggestions kind of bummed because that stuff is really expensive. I want to put a picture but I can't figure out how

well I guess I will use the Dave Hammer one ! you know I was reading on another site about casting forge burners with and without flares. I have a commercially built forge that has a very simple burner - the gas comes in from the side - the air has a blower that flows through a tapered aluminum casting and meets the gas at a 3/4" black pipe - it goes through the tweer - no flare, no tips, nozzles, nothing. I recently repaired the refractory and coated it with ITC 100 - and from a cold start got a full crucible of aluminum too hot in under 8 minutes. used to take almost 20. would like to build a bigger version for my larger furnace I am working on (21" diameter compressor tank as body.

thanks for all the info - Frosty, yes one of the burners I am building is a Reil type and bell reducer - that is it (was late when I was posting too tired to see straight) I am also building one of the dave hammer burners and see which I like better - do you have a better suggestion of a burner to build? i will try the vinegar removal today. any idea how long you need to soak it - I guess just keep checking on it till its gone. thanks much all

I took the advice and found black pipe for the burner tubes, however the 3/4 to 1-1/4 bell fitting is galvanized. Does that matter or does it all need to be black pipe or just the burner tube and as flare?

Hello, about a month or so ago I bought some ITC100 from Jock @ Anvilfire. spoke to him on the phone - real nice guy - very helpful. when I had some questions he answered my emails promptly. i had one more questions and wanted to buy some wool but the website ordering system wasn't working so emailed him. long story short 3 weeks later and a few emails no response - now the website certificate is expired and some of it was not working for me. I ended up buying the wool elsewhere and it came today so it made me wonder what is up. Just thought i'd ask. maybe it is just coincidence, maybe he is just super busy in his shop.

I kinda thought that - at least those are the cheapest and easiest parts to find - again thanks.

One more question while I have your attention! I purchased galvanized pipe parts for my burners, after going to 2 or 3 home depots, Shell Lumber (a huge hardware store - great place btw) and a big plumbing supply - none of them had black pipe at all. I know galvanized can be used for gas piping, my home gas is plumbed with galvanized - just wondering why black pipe is called for? again thanks for your help. Cary

Thanks Frosty, this is why I asked - I saw so many different set ups (just like in casting furnace propane runs) and I wanted to get it right. What you say makes sense. I will post pics once I have it all done.

Hello all, my first post here. New to blacksmithing although not to metal working - I am a machinist, lost wax and sand caster and a jeweler to name a few. I am building my first gas forge - the burner is not a problem, similar to ones I use on casting furnaces, going to try out two designs, one I got from Dave Hammer" youtube video and Ron Reil's burner. My question is how to know what PSI Regulator you need? I plan to use a needle valve to control my gas flow - All my casting furnaces have blowers and these don't - that is where I am confused - also On Zoeller's website the single burner setup has a 3-30 PSI reg, Dave Hammer suggests a 1-60 and lots of what I read here also suggests a MR Heater 1-60. Just wondering what you experienced folk say about this subject before I go buying anything. Like I have read here, when I discuss this with the "propane pros" they get all quiet and don't want to say anything. Anyway thanks for the great group - lots of interesting information here. Hope I have something nice to show you soon.

any idea why he was banned? Just curious