Senft

What are the changes made in the upgrade and what does the kit consist of?

As I recall the Strasburg RR shop has a 3 head electric rivet heater- they may be able to answer questions. http://www.strasburgrailroad.com/mechanical-shop.php

Very neat stuff!!

Yes, me too. I have a fairbanks C (100?) that's rusted solid and looking for time/info to rebuild. I went as far as to get a spring from nameless in PA a few years back which seems much smaller than the one that's in it. It has some dies that do not appear correct height but have no info on what then should be.

Thanks for thoughts. I currently have a 50LG that works OK but am frustrated trying to get fine control with it, it seems very moody even though it's it's in great shape. Still fooling with getting a brake that works well. Works extremely well when everything's in perfect adjustment but change stock much or try to use tooling and it's all whacked out again- requiring more fooling with. Was curious how 33 compares although I know it's comparing apples and oranges. Just looking for things to consider if funds ever permit. Also considering a utility hammer build as have full machine shop. Amount of time I spent rebuilding the LG had to be very close to building a nice utility from scratch!

How does that thing hit (full throttle) compared to something like a 50lb utility hammer or a 50lb LG?

As far as balancing the reciprocating and rotating assembly, normal way used on engines is to make up a weight which represents 100 percent of the rotating weight (crankpin bearing, and half of the toggle arms and spring) plus 50 percent (normally) of the reciprocating weight (the other half of toggle arms and hammer head, top die etc. Hang this weight on the crankpin and proceed to static balance by playing with counterweight until the crankshaft does not fall to a heavy spot in any position. Sometimes very slow moving assemblies are done at less than 50 percent of reciprocating weight. Perfect dynamic balance not practical due to fact that the weight spinning on the crankpin is not in exactly the same plane as where you can place the counterweight.

I'd also like to know! Having recently made transition from hobby to a business entity, I'm trying to get quotes and not having much luck. I've asked for quotes from a few agents and after supplying all info they asked for they never call back. Also both emailed and called the outfit that has the ABANA member program and they also would not return either the calls or emails.

I like the effect in the center!

That helps a lot- thanks! When I can build a bigger kiln I think I'll try it.

Great! Thanks much, next time I do casting I'm gonna try it. What burnout temps/cycle do you use? Is the investment picky about how fast you warm it up?

Chyancarrek, do you have the recipe for this type of investment? I've done some small scale investment casting and want to go larger, but buying jewelry grade investment is a lot- would love to know how to make my own.

Interested in the molding process... is that a shell mold buried in a container of sand, or is the whole thing one piece??

Fantastic work!! Thanks for sharing.

Ciladog/Doc Thanks, the additional explanations really helped. Very neat stuff!!

Still trying to understand the whole picture of how it works, but would it be similar to this- http://chriscoleman.com/stuff/ , except by making the motion rod pivot rather than moving the lower limit switch down with the throttle movement?

ASME? Had some experiences with historic boiler repair, became a bit frustrated in looking for certain answers in ASME code. Wondered if it was just me. Then was asked by the State boiler inspector if I knew what ASME meant- His answer was "Always, Sometimes, Maybe, Except". Can't argue.

It will likely wind up that that I don't have large enough tips or tanks around right now and will need to use 7018 or mig as mentioned. The idea of where the weld goes in relation to the grain direction also did occur to me. All of this also confirms that I will not use it for anything critical such as the press frame I'd have liked to do. Although it's really heavy channel I'm not sure the quality, and would not enjoy having it blow apart near me. Interesting that even at a fairly late date (1950) you can find wrought iron specified for certain locomotive boiler parts such as staybolts where some flexibility is required, with flange grade steels specified for everything else.

As much info as possible from large group with experience is always good! Very much appreciated. The idea of gas welding makes sense, the dual shield also. I've only used solid wire mig so far so will need to learn about the dual shield.

Thanks all, sounds reasonable. I think I'll try out some 7018AC too and see if it likes it. May bolt in addition (Do not have enough sound insulation nor enough help to get the #90 rivet gun out ).

Yes, it's real wrought iron channel and nice heavy stuff. Salvaged from an 1880's building. Got to thinking about what it might be and cut off a test piece to fracture. has a lengthwise grain like wood. grinding into it, laminations are clearly visible. Only reason for trying TIG on it is that I had used some of it in a sculpture at an earlier time and needed to make some welds on small sections that I had forged down fairly thin. Didn't work! Slag in the material floated in the nice little TIG puddle, messy,then the weld always cracked upon cooling. I have a fair amount of this large channel and would like to use in other building projects and am looking at the best way to treat it as far as welding. Figured if anyone has much experience with best way to electric weld the stuff it will be someone on this forum. Something had stuck in my head about 7024 being the best flavor to use on it, but I don't quite recall- just want to use the right stuff. In my experience this stuff is also considerably weaker than steel channel, so I need to be careful what I do with it.

I've been working with some scrap wrought channels (12"and about 3/4" web) and need to get strong welds on them. Have been told to treat like A36 as far as welding goes. Found that 6010-11 cracks through weld upon cooling and so does TIG with mild steel filler, 7018 seems to work OK. Have also heard of using some other 70 series stick electrode, however don't recall exact number. Wondered if anyone else here has experience with this.

Does anyone have experience with this outfit?- http://sino-texasimports.net/

Great job!