NickOHH

Sounds like it's worth a try curious for the results.

Fazzios in newark, DE  has mild in any size imaginable they have a jersey location also and I believe they have medium/high carbon and tool steels but I haven't been to that location yet to check it out. But the deleware location has the best prices around available in 5 , 10 and I think 20 foot lengths and they will cut a few for free then a buck a cut for more , but I have never been charged a cut yet.

Looks good, one thing would be to leave a bit more taper on the handle so if (as) the wood dries shrinks and gets hammered in you can keep driving the handle further in. But great job!

That second anvil definetly looks like a brooks to me with a coat of black on it insted of their factory blue.  I love my 100# brooks , looks to be in similar condition too but I paid half that, however i don't know the market out in your neck of the woods, but can say they are fine anvils.

39 minutes ago, Ernie42141 said:

Yea it should have been harden and temper. Have been reading the heat treating guide and use a professional machinest/blacksmith for help. You guys are Grammer hammers. My fault not reviewing before posting.

Not so much grammar hammers but it's easier to explain stuff and understand questions when we / you know what's really goin on. You can try brinin it to critical and quenching in oil see if it hardens up, if it does your golden if  not don't waste your time and effort. 

The janka hardness is 3260 which puts it at twice as hard or so as black locust, no wonder how it got it's name .

Yup I'm with Stan some are 1725rpm some are at 3450 if you end up with a 3450 instead you need twice the hp you would otherwise. 

Welcome to the site Nathan grab a comfy chair and somethin cold to drink you should be able to find the answers to any questions and if you can't seem to find it there are some knowledgable folks on here!

Hmmm.... Now this has me thinking... Could be do able what would be the smallest motor I could run on a hammer this size??

1 hour ago, Glenn said:

Much like the face of the anvil, WHEN USED a shovel should not show any signs of rust. (grin)

I was gonna say if they start rusting you just need to use em more

5 hours ago, Crazy Ivan said:

"Ppffftt, I move more metal than you when I blow my nose" -JWS

"HA! maybe with a 2" x72" grinder running 30 grit" -Myself

Lol happy curmudgeon day!!!

The anvil walking across the floor doesn't count as moving metal ... Or does it.

46 minutes ago, Forging Carver said:

Hi,

I have been reading around on site and realized that most of you guys oil your hammers and then wipe the excess oil. I oiled my hammer about a week ago with vegetable oil, the head and handle, but never wiped any of the excess off. Is this going to be an issue? The handle absorbed all the oil. My hammer has a chared handle, so now I am guessing that it went from completely dry to pretty moist. Can someone tell me if I got a problem on my hands? Thanks

I don't like veggie oils in the wood they go rancid after awhile and don't cure. I stick with boiled linseed oil, it has accelerators in it so it hardens once it absorbs but on metal if there is excess it can leave a gummy coatings if it's thick.  A little 3 in 1 machine oil is good too.

48 minutes ago, MrDarkNebulah said:

Forging Carver its definitely not a Fisher. It rings pretty loud. I posted here before asking for an ID because there is nothing to identify and people said it looked like a Peter Wright. So for the chain is it just looselywrapped around Its base? How do you guys keep it from falling off?

It will quiet down a good bit just being secured down to the stump also so the chain might not be nessecary. Won't be silent but it does help ALOT.

1 hour ago, Forging Carver said:

Can you get a close up so we can see the Damascus look? If you haven't etched already, you might want to consider doing so. Great job

I didn't bother etching I need to make a new batch of ferric chloride and it's such a small area that is fully welded that I don't think you would notice. The back end you can still see the individual strands I may try another completly welded and etch it.

I used some flat bar wih a couple holes drilled right outside the feet with long lags goin into the stump holds it real tight and I drop tools in the slot to keep em handy when needed .

21 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

Nice job. did you use borax for the welded ends?

 

Yup, generous with the borax

Here's one I did today out of a peice of cable i kinda like it. 

I picked up a few tricks I think, I was pay attention to how you were tweaking it to get the balance. 

I see you skipped the metal wedge, looks like a nice tight fit goin on the angle should be just fine and looks clean.

54 minutes ago, Crazy Ivan said:

Ohhh crud!!! I forgot to mention, NickOHH helped to strike on this one. Thanks Nick! You did well, especially for our 1st time working together. No bruises on my knuckles is more than I can credit some folks I've had strike for me lol. Thanks for the help bud! 

My pleasure, Glad I could make it up, I learned a ton, can't wait to try forging more of my own in fact I forged a proper hammer eye drift outta a jackhammer bit. 

Turned out gorgeous Pete! Diggin the handle.

I can't wait to try out those bad boys with some of these goodies we brought home . Expect a package in the mail.

26 minutes ago, rthibeau said:

no, but now you mention it...while you were here, what did marcy do to my forge ???  I tried forge welding a shaft to a braided handle and it just wouldn't take...WTF ????

Hmm.. That's odd, next time were out I'll have her teach ya how to forge weld 

 What You clean up since we left?!?

15 minutes ago, Forging Carver said:

Well the issue is that right now my forge is a brake drum with some piping and a hair dryer. No table, no nothing. So I can only put coal up to the rim of the brake drum. That being said, I have to put my long stock at an angle into the forge. Also, part of the reason is also that I need a new air source. My hair dryer produces too much air, and turning it on and off everytime the heat is done is a pain. My next coal forge will have a table, better air source, and will be a bit higher.

Could always forge weld the reigns on then ya don't need to worry about the legnth.

sorry for hijacking your thread JJ

4 hours ago, Frosty said:

That's nothing, I have two different kinds of rock in reach I can cut with a fingernail. A sharp rap with a plastic ruler will cut or split either easily.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

Wow frosty musta taken you quite a few years of rubbing to get all the pores in your fingernails full of aluminum to get em there!!