keykeeper

Wouldn't a forepunch for making nail head divots have a tapered diamond shape to the working end? Like this: Bloom City Head Forepunch-Centaur Forge I would say it is what is known as a backing out punch, used to push bolts or pins out of holes.

Fisher, definitely. Eagle and anchor mark on side. Also, the slight bulge in the casting under the heel is a Fisher trait, in my experience. Good anvils. Horn looks like it has seen better days, but that can be worked around.

I don't see a problem with that, as long as the tool lays even on the anvil, with no sharp edges to possibly ding the anvil. I think a lot of smiths make tools that go over center mass of the anvil. I have a spring fuller made to slip into my pritchel hole, that is used over the face. When not needed, it easily swivels out of the way to allow access to the face. I purchased a multi-radius swage from yesteryearforge at Quad-State last year. It was made to clamp in a vise, but I plan on re-configuring it to fit my hardie hole, with the bulk resting over the face. I Just like that added mass under the tool, I guess. Matter of fact, some anvils have a hardy hole near the horn, probably to take advantage of the mass of the anvil, at least some of the euro-styled one do.

Koutetsu: That site has a wealth of information on many topics. However, I would have to say that sometimes the author is a little one-sided in his opinions of how some things should be done, or built. Just my opinion, so take with a grain of salt. There is another website with a lot of good information, and sometimes the author comments here as well. Here's a link: How-To-Blacksmith-Index I've found this site to be very informative as well as the one you mentioned. A google search using different terms such as blacksmith, blacksmith shop, blacksmith how to, blacksmith association, forging, etc. will return countless results, many of which are full of great info. The key is to take all the information you can glean from all the websites and other sources of information, combine it, condense it, and use what works best for you, in your situation. That is when information obtained is best used. Good luck in your journey!

So, I'm interested in wrapping some wire with wheels myself, could you elaborate? Or is that another theoretical piece of work?

Yes, we are lucky xxxxxxxx, aren't we?....LOL (Insert evil laugh here) I have a few pounds laying around out back myself.(Evil laugh again!)

Hoping to make up there again this year, Mike and Peyton. If I do make it, I'll be sure to stop in a say hello. Lot to see there, it should go all week long!!! -aaron

Hillbilly, Yes, there is a fee. $50.00 plus anything else you might want to partake in like camping, dinner, etc. Here's a link to the info http://www.sofablacksmiths.org/09%20web%20booklet%20.pdf

I just used google maps to figure directions from your school, to the fairgrounds. You are 1/2 (.5) mile away from the fairgrounds (plus whatever distance you live from the school, if that is where you are headed from). Get over there on one of the open forge nights and get to hammering! If I were that close, I'd be there every chance I got. As Thomas stated, they have a shop available with everything needed to hammer.

Hillbilly, Read this page, Southern Ohio Forge and Anvil (SOFA) Blacksmith Association it has all the info you need, including when the forge is open to members(Hint:you might have to join the club).

If I recall from my trip to Quad-State last fall, you are within rock-throwing distance of where SOFA meets regularly and where Quad-State is held. Matter of fact, coming in we turned right by your school. You should contact someone from SOFA and ask about their meetings at the fairgrounds. I think later this month they are having a bladesmithing get together of sorts. Check their website for contact information. The Quad-State roundup will be happening in just over a month. Just got my packet in the mail for registration.

That anvil/vise combo looks like a Stewart Handy Worker. My recollection is that they had attachments for different jobs, like a bead roller for sheet metal work. Been a while since there was a thread about them on IFI.http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f23/new-here-1874/ Would be a neat piece for conversation, but I don't think it would hold up to heavy use on the anvil part. Anyone ever seen a vise like the one pictured. Looks interesting.

1. Never, ever salivate or tremble when you find that item you really want, sellers pick up on this and will raise the asking price if not marked. After all, they would not be there if they weren't trying to make money. 2. If the price is a steal, then steal it. Don't make any comments within hearing distance of the seller about how cheap said item was. If you do, the price will double on the next like item seller has, affecting either you or another blacksmith's luck of acquisition at reasonable prices. 3. When haggling, set a limit, as Hollis stated, and stick to it. If the seller won't come down in price to your threshold, keep searching for whatever tool you want. 4. Remember that sometimes, certain like tools can be purchased new for just a few dollars more. Do the math on it, and buy accordingly. 5. Play dumb. Some sellers at flea markets and antique mall don't know what they have and price accordingly. Look for and take advantage of this. If they ask if you know what it is, just reply "Nope, but I like the looks of it. Will look good hanging on the wall". They love to hear that, makes 'em feel good.

Real sharp piece, Rich. (Pun intended). Always a treat to see your latest work. Would love to own one, if I had the cash to spare. Looking at your knives, it is apparent you are meticulous in your labor to make them.

Like I said, I'm not up on flame cutting, so didn't know if that would matter or not. I've only cut a few things with a torch, and really didn't pay attention to spacing from the material at the time. I was just trying to get it cut and not burn myself or anyone else in the process. On a side note, is there any good references to look for about oxy/acetylene welding and cutting?

That's the roundest hardy hole I've seen to date. Just think of all the possible swages for spoons and ladles....HAHA. Of course, the price is a steal compared to the more traditional swage blocks selling nowadays....LOL.

Ed, I couldn't tell on the video, but was the height adjustable for the torch? If not, that would be another concern if a person was to build one for more than occasional use. I'm not up on torch cutting, but seems the tip to target height would be an issue depending on thickness of the plate being cut.

Interesting setup. Why power it with the drill, would it not work by sliding the carriage by hand? Only critique I have was the cameraman moving with the tempo of the music....lol. Of course, that is one of my major pet peeves with movies on youtube....how much dramamine is needed to watch...lol.

WoooHoooo, that is some hard hitting forging. Very inventive use of materials. Thanks for posting it!

Hammbone, You may have to resize the videos to be able to post them. Try googling for a file editing program on the web. There is usually free downloads of different ones available. I'd love to see your hammer in action. If that don't work, I'm sure the admins here will help get them resized and posted.

Greebe! Congrats on the new quarters in the works! Hope all goes well, when you get it and get all moved in, let me know. I'll try to make a trip over sometime to visit. I can't wait to see the house, also. (How's that "new" anvil working out?) -aaron

Roger (781), Was that you? I saw you riding around the tailgating area last year. Quite a sight with the anvil on the handlebars! LOL! I also got a kick out of the little kids lifting those anvils!

Will your firepot have a flange for it to sit on? If so, don't anchor it, just drop it into a hole that is close to a nice fit around the firepot under the flange. Being a welded up firepot, you may need to make repairs in the future. What's easier to move, transport, turn over, etc when welding or having welded?-the firepot by itself or the whole forge?

I thought that when I saw it. Looks like a pretty good size one. I've seen a few before that had a point raised in the center. I assumed they were for star drills also.

Looks like a steel face to me. Have you tested it with a small hammer? Check the rebound and ring. May be cast body, but seem to me the all cast iron ones tend to not be as well finished as a good steel forged anvil. The face on this one looks great. A true cast iron one would show chips from use. This one looks pretty good, but I would check it out in person before purchasing. Is the stand wood or cast iron, I can't really tell?