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I Forge Iron

Hofi

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Everything posted by Hofi

  1. Johannes I Know The Catalogue . What I Was Thinking Is ; Call Him For The Information . He Knows All The Right Sorsses And Can Guid You Hofi
  2. Thee Question Is A V E R Y Modern Question And There For The Answers Are Modern Too. In The Older Time They Did Not Ask This Question And Therefor Did Not Answer. U Use Them And Forge On Them As They Are . Like We Are Getting Older And Having Dings Screches Wrinkels ,they Too And That Is The Beuty Of Old Tools Hofi
  3. Hofi

    318

    ''bowl'' forged with hydroulic press another view
  4. Hofi

    222

    ''bowl'' forged with hydroulic press another view
  5. Hofi

    128

    ''bowl'' forged with hydroulic press
  6. JOHANNES U MAY GET THE INFORMATION FROM ANGELE MASCHINENBAU johannes@angele.de ANGELE-Schmiedetechnik | alles rund um's schmieden: Herzlich Willkommen Tel 0049-7352922614 hofi
  7. Hofi

    IMG_6345

    RAM HEAD FROM 1'' ROUND STEEL
  8. Hofi

    IMG_6342

    RAM HEAD FROM 1'' ROUND STEEL
  9. Hofi

    IMG_6336

    RAM HEAD FROM 1'' ROUND STEEL
  10. Hofi

    IMG_6341

    RAM HEAD
  11. Hofi

    IMG_6332

    RAM HEAD
  12. Hofi

    417

    ''CROWN AND COMBINATION DIES'' THE WHOLE FAMILY
  13. Hofi

    317

    ''CROWN AND COMBINATION ''DIES'' FOR ''BIGER FORMES.
  14. Hofi

    221

    AIR HAMMER ''CROWNED'' DIES ANOTHER VIEW FOR LEAVES AND OTHER FORMS FORGING WIDTH 13/4'' THICK UP 5/8'' I FABRICATE ON MY MILLING MACHINE.
  15. Hofi

    127

    AIR HAMMER ''CROWNED'' DIES FOR LEAVES AND OTHER FORMS FORGING WIDTH 13/4'' THICK UP 5/8'' I FABRICATE ON MY MILLING MACHINE.
  16. Some Thing Went Wrong Try Again Some Wood Carving Tools And Drawknives I Forge Hofi
  17. Some of the wood carving tools and drawknives that I forge HOFI
  18. A Hammer Like That One Was Bought By Jossef Mikke My Freind In Prgue One Year Ago. But The 80 Kg 176# Size For Less Then 2000$. A Very Very Good Hammer!!! Hofi
  19. Hello Rick It Is Not Very Hot On Regular Fire U Can Touch It With Your Hand,but If U''ll Make A Big Fire And In The Summre It Will Go Higher. In My Case I Went Through A Concreat Wall And There Is No Problam, But If U Go Through A Wooden Wall I''ll Sugesst U To Put Around The Tunel Any Insulating Matirial To Be On The Safe Side. Hofi
  20. There Are Some Reasons For The ''squer Tunnel'' 1 If The Tunnel Is Round The ''suction'' Of The Smoke Is Done Only In The Center And Not All The Smoke Is Been Sucked In. 2 The Tunnel Is Cut In An Angel That The Upper Part Is Almost Above The Center Of The Fire And That Increases The Suction. 3 The Tunnel Is Welded To The Coke And Tyre Steel Table In A Way That There Is Balance Between The Two Sections From Both Sides Of The Wall And There Is No Need To Fasten It Strong Or Heavy. 4 Because The Cross Cut Of The Tunnel Is A Bit Bigger Then The Chimney The Air And Smoke Slows Down And The Ash Is Falling Down On The Bottom Of The Tunnel And Every 3-4 Years I Open The Rear Cover And Clean By This Almost No Ash Is Going Into The Environment 5 The Upper Part Of The Chimney Is Used To Put A Small Gas Forge For Pree Heating One Can Not Do It With A Round Tube 6 The Connection Between The Pipe And The Chimney Is Very Simple And Stable No Need For Special Elbows Or Arrangements 7 From The Architectural Design It Is Nice And Very Impotent For Me Hofi
  21. Rick Dowen On The Tunnel There Is A 2'' High Coller That The Chimney Tube Is Seatting On . And With A Coller Band Holding The Chimney With Straps Bolted To The Wall One Can See It Very Clearly On The Foto Hofi
  22. Hello Don The Ss Pipes Are 12'' Id The Squer Tonel Is 13''x13'' 4 Degrees Dowen To Prevent The Rain Water To Flow Into The Fire . The Hight Of The Chimney Is 10' Hofi
  23. The Set Up Is Not !!!!!!!!! In Germany It Is In My Smithy And School In Israel. Some Of My Students In Germany Did The Same But Not Those In The Photo's Hofi
  24. Only ! In The Usa I Forge On Euroanvil When Teaching Or Demonstratin ,not Because Of My Choice Only Because They Are There ! But In All My Visits In The Stats I Used Nimba London Patern Many Types Kolswa Peddinghouse Italien Make Polish Make And Many Others At My Shope In Israel And In My School I Use Only Europen Style Anvils But They Are 40-100 Years Old Produced Long Before ''euroanvile'' Started. From All Of This Types I Forge And Preffer Very Much The Hofi Anvil Hofi
  25. IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2008 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved. BP1040 Candle Holder 01 by Uri Hofi Photo's of the candle holder in two versions. The steel is flat 3/8 inches x 1-1/4 inches x 14-1/2 inches long. In this case I had an order for 8 of them. To mark and incise I use the compass to center line, the center punch to mark the end of line and a short cold chisel to incise and a 2.75 pound hammer. The marking is done on a ''marking table''. The table is a 2 inch steel plate 20 inches x 20 inches and 30 inches high. On this table I do all my markings on the shelves it is having many more marking tools. Now I am going to ''hot cut'' in the incised steel with a 5-1/2 pound hammer. And a hot chisel made of h13 steel sharpen to 20 degrees and the width is no more then 20 mm all this to get a very fast and clean cut. And an aluminum plate to protect the chisel. Twice in the fire to finish the cut and to flatten. You could see that when I take it out of the fire, I bend the hot steel a bit. This is to prevent the hot steel from cooling fast - the flat steel will not touch the anvil only in the cutting point and by this I preserve the heat for a longer time. Now I am going to open round the cut on a cone held in the vise. I have two vises. From two sides of my anvil one is 30 inches and the other one is higher 40 inches. To make this work more comfortable I hold the cone in the lower vise. The cone is smeared with ''moly-graphite'' lube to ease the operation. Open on the cone. With the 3 pound cast hammer hitting on both sides and around. And every heat and operation I have to straighten and flatten and bring it to one right line use for this operation the 5-1/2 pound hammer. You can see that I use two different hammers. According to the need, I will use a ball peen hammer later in the process. Forging the ''sharp'' corners of the chisel cutting, all around. And on both sides. Forging the touch mark again the use of the rosebud for local heat. Necking with the air hammer to 20 mm width (a bit more then 3/4 inches). And keep the original 5/16 inches flat dimension Near view of the nice transformation of the necking and the beauty of the end chisel end cut. Forging the points on both sides with the second air hammer and different dies. The photo shows the dies and the 1/4 inch spacer on the bottom die to get the right square on the end of the point and the same for all. The measuring wood plank with the black mark of 13-1/2 inch length. The forging and measuring process on both sides of the holder. The finished 8 parts. Forging the ''sharp'' point on the end 1/4'' point of the parts. Heat with the rose bud for a local heat. The length of the ''sharp'' point is 1-5/16 inch on all points equal. Measure 1-1/4 inch from the end of the cut on both sides and mark with a silver pencil the silver holds high temp. You can use the fuller without first fullering cold. Fuller with a 5/16 inch fuller to the middle of the flat thickness. Fullering a bit more on the sides to get a nicer bend. Holding in the higher vice heat the fullered point with a rosebud for a very local heat. Bend to ''right angle'' on both sides and both directions to ''stand up right' when standing on the round base. You may see the use of the ''right angle'' when aligning. The near view of the bent Forging the ''cups'' from round and square punch outs that i get form fabricating com that gives me all the ''punch outs'' they get need. The thickness is 5 mm a bit more then 3/16 inches the OD is 80 mm 2-3/8 inches and the square too. First I upset the circumference all around tilted 30 degrees with a ball pein hammer. That ball peen I forged from a big air hammer chisel and it weighs 2 pounds. The peen is more flat than usual. Twice I put the work in the fire to finish the upsetting. I forge the cup after the upset into the round swage with a rounded fuller and the 5-1/2 pound hammer and drill 4.5 mm hole and deburr. From the other side to half of the steel thickness The next process is all ready explained in the Blueprint BP1019. With the tooling dimension and the system. I will only show the photos of the process again concerning this ''candle holder''. Thank you for your attention. Hofi
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