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I Forge Iron

teenylittlemetalguy

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  1.  

    The Blacksmith’s Project Book

    Antonello Rizzo

    ISBN 978-0-9979798-2-4

    Hardcover, 248 pages, over 900 color photos

     

    Mr. Rizzo has assembled a very nice overview of 20 projects as done by skilled artists. These are not your run-of-the-mill blacksmithing projects, but are nearly all sculptural in nature. You get a chance to see how a professional gets to the end result they want, which is a real treat, and with 900 color photographs it has a lot to offer.

    Many of the smiths in the book may be familiar-the most notable being Zeevik Gottlieb,who shows you his main steps in creating a steel figure. The photos are close, clear and very informative, giving you a good look at a real master at work.

    Another particularly interesting project is the eye-opening design and construction of a Venetian door knocker. Seeing the layout will spur you to consider the proportions you use in your own work so you can reap the results as well.

    All in all, I think this is a worthy follow up to Mr. Rizzo’s previous book and is definitely worth your time, especially if you are looking to expand your own work artistically and differentiate your projects from others.

  2. Danjmath, no matter the heat source with coins there are things you can do to improve your chances and the quality of the results. 

    The mantra of CLEAN material is very important. Even though it is possible to use uncleaned pocket change it is an advantage to clean it. It gives you a similar starting point every time so you can focus on what else you need to adjust to do it better next time. 

    Scale that will interfere in a weld on most non ferrous materials is a REALLY thin layer, often it is hard to see. Don't be fooled, sand immediately before cleaning and welding for most consistent results. Scale needs air to form so the forge needs to be running just a little rich to slow it from forming. This also means leave it in the forge till ready to weld, no taking it out just for a look. 

    Coins are lumpy, which makes little gaps for hot gases from a forge or torch to get in and make scale, undoing all your hard work of sanding and cleaning. often the only welds actually being made are the high spots where the coins touch, it is difficult if not impossible to simply hammer past that remaining thin line of scale and make a solid billet.  This has got to be the number one issue smiths face with coins and most won't have the insight to see the root issue because it is not as critical when welding steel.  Aquick couple blows from a flat faced hammer on a cold coin can really be an advantage when welding later. 

    Good luck to you!

     

     

  3. in my opinion heat is heat, so I would go for cheaper. I also like to make larger billets and a torch would be less favorable. 

    Even though not as cool you generally can get better product using a kiln with temp controls. 

  4. 5 minutes ago, buckbrown said:

    What size stock did you start with? that's really cool. I have taken a tomahawk class at John C Campbell Folk School. Wrapped & welded bit. Great class. I would like to try that. I like the extra meat in the back.

    forgive me it was a year ago. I think it was about 5/8" thick 2x3.5 inches or so.  I have done wrap and weld before the class but Jim does this cool asymmetric wrap around the eye that works great and was apparently common for the age.  the bit being welded in entirely separate. His video is on it is the single clearest smithing video ever. you can see everything perfect. the only thing better was taking the class and having the help to do it. 

  5. Mr. Barkwood is hosting a Hammer in/ Camp out and you are invited!

    August 12-13th at Matanuska River Campground. 925 E Arctic Avenue, Palmer, Alaska 99645

    I don't know about you but I think this is WAY overdue!

    This is family friendly so bring the whole crew. If you have not been there before it is a nice little spot, there is a playground for the kids as well. 

    Keith has reserved 4 large flat adjoining campsites and cleared the concept with the park management. 

    The main thing they were concerned about was that we don't put forges on the picnic tables, so bring your own and lets get this party started! 

     

     

     

  6. Just a friendly reminder that the Association of Alaskan Blacksmiths are holding their next meeting this Saturday 7-15-17 at Jim Hutto's shop in Anchorage. Sat 9 AM · 3800 Taiga Dr, Anchorage, AK 99516-2858

    It is open to the public. One current discussion is planned- Building the Frosty T-Burner. But there is guaranteed to be a lot more happening. 

    As always please bring eye protection, it is good to have even if you are not forging as others will be. 

     

  7. 7 minutes ago, Frosty said:

     

    If any of you guys hasn't spent time at the anvil come on buy I'll be more than happy to give you some time at my anvil. 

    Be there or be square.

    Frosty The Lucky.

    Using Frosty's anvil is a real treat. You probably won't find a much nicer model.  Also they will be pouring Cast Iron!

    I don't think I can make it, and I think Sean is out as well. But have fun for us!

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