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I Forge Iron

Bob H.

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Everything posted by Bob H.

  1. Ok, now that I'm bug eyed as all get out. Feel like I've been staring at the sun. All but the last worked for me. The big one, looked like a bunch of gears all turning in different directions. Man, my eyes are still funny. Which is odd, because years ago, while shopping in the mall, they had these pictures you would stare at, and the other picture was supposed to become visible. Supposed to. I never once saw the picture. So I'm kinda surprised I saw all but one of these things. I ain't looking again! My eyes are just now getting back to normal.
  2. Yo Bonehead! Sorry, couldn't resist! Actually, they are ALL workable. It just depends on what you want to make, and the size pieces you have available. The low carbon steels work well for anything ornamental, or not needing strength. Higher carbon can be used for knives or tooling, depending on carbon content. If you are a begginer, than stick with low carbon. And as a beginner, you will probably be using a hand hammer, not a power hammer. And lower carbon steels work much easier than high carbon. Now, 1018 is a low carbon steel, moves easily, and great for a lot of ornamental work. A36 is a higher carbon steel, meeting minimun structural requirements. That is what is normally sold at hardware and box stores. And what a lot of us use. It may contain higher carbon, but usuallly not enough to fully harden for something like a knife. Very usefull steel, and very common. Works well for tongs. Around here, 1018 is a special order steel. What I buy at the steel yard is A36. Something like 5160 or higher will be used for knives, tooling, spring fullers, hardie tools, etc. The higher carbon, more care must be taken to work within the proper ranges of heat for that steel. Tell us what steels you can scrounge, and maybe we can be more specific.
  3. Just a thought, but most beginners I see have a habit of working the metal at too hot, or too cold. Both of which may make it break apart. Keep this in mind, and see if that helps you out.
  4. And another one. This one goes to my wife. She picked out some Lacewood for the handle. Brass guard and pommel. Blade is 4 1/4 on the sharpened edge. I did some grinding today on 3 other blades. Just with the 36 grit belt. I'll finish those someday.
  5. Well, shoot, it seems Roosko might be a bit shy. Check out his web page-http://darkknives.com/index.htm, and you will see what else he has made. Dang nice work, and a lot of it!
  6. That's a very nice looking knife, and sheath. Simple, and clean. How do you like the bubinga? And what do you finish it with? I have been using several coats of tung oil on my handles, sanding with 0000 steel wool in between coats. I have not tried any stamping work on my sheaths, as I still make simple, usable sheaths. Once I start taking something out in the woods deer hunting, it don't remain pretty very long!
  7. Yes, I am proud of our military and the sacrifices of the men and women in service, as well as their families. I am not aways so proud of our gov't, which I think is full of corruption. Former USAF Security Policeman, SGT.
  8. That is FANTASTIC! Are there any more of those available?
  9. Nice work, Chris. When you get more parts made, post pictures of those!
  10. Jens, what steel are you using, and why? I have used new 5160, coil spring, and ball bearing race[52100]. I figure tho, that if I was to sell anything, I'd use new stock. Less chance of any stress cracks in the steel, and the customer should get new steel. BUT, as I am just making knives for the heck of it, for me, and for practice, and to give as gifts, I can use whatever steel I want! Or have on hand. I don't give no warranty! I'm making knives lately, because I can, I guess. My motto is Might as Well Make What I Can, as What I Can't!
  11. Yup, I like the first best. And, I like the discussion. I kept going back to the pictures so I could follow up on what was being said. Good learning experience. Thanks for sharing.
  12. Nice! So, what are you doing with all these knives you are making? Selling? I took my case of knives into a restraunt, and showed them to my friends. And gave him one. They also said, that was the fastest service they ever got at that restraunt! The waitress said, if I didn't like the food, to remember she didn't cook it! But she, and the boss lady, liked the knives, and did not seem to think it was odd that I brought them in to show.
  13. Blade of 52100, and birds eye maple handle. Brass guard and butt cap. Tung oil finish.
  14. Here is a link to a lot of good survival information. EQUIPPED TO SURVIVE - Outdoors Gear, Survival Equipment Review & Survival Information Which reminds me. Whenever I go hunting or walkabout, even if I know the land like the back of my hand, I always take some survival gear along. The basics are two pocket knives, waterproof match case, W/matches, whistle, and compass. Sometimes throwing in a space blanket, which is only the size of a small pack of kleenex. I aso take the small pack of Kleenex. I always wear a leather belt, which could if necessary, become a tournaquit[sp?], or sliced up into several strands, for tying whatever needs tying. I also always have a small pocket sized LED flashlight on me at all times. A couple of bandages in my wallet. And, as one fella suggested, a womans maxi pad makes a great addition to a first aid kit, as it is VERY absorbant. And along those lines, you should learn basic first aid. Presure and elevation for most wounds. Where to find the artery if that needs pressure to stop bleeding, etc. Geez, I am long winded this morning. :] Coyote Forge and Survival School? Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.
  15. Denny, not at all. You do most of the work right over the center, where you have more mass. And if the heel is broken off, just weld on a piece of square tube, to use for your hardy tools. Coyote Forge
  16. Ken Mankel is a friend of mine. His anvils are poured into his own mold, by the foundry. He then machines the base and the face, drills the hardy and pritchel holes, cleans up the horn, and heat treats. Coyote Forge
  17. My shop anvil is now a 200 lb Fisher. And my demo anvil is my 118 lb Peter Wright. I'll be selling my 150 lb Haybudden and my 84 lb Mousehole. Coyote Forge
  18. When I was at my first base in the Air Force, we had a surprise inspection at 3:30 in the morning. They took my martial arts weapons, staff, sticks, sai, because they were WEAPONS. SO, I take out my training knife, which is a dulled down butcher knife, run it across my bare leg, and say is this a weapon! Yup, they take that too. SO, me being me, I hold up my fist, with a one knuckle punch showing, and say, do you want to lock me up too? Now, this was in my room. My job was guarding nuclelar weapons, while carrying fully automactic weapons. But I couldn't have my martial art WEAPONS in my room, while I COULD have a pool stick or bat or rock? In the military, there is a right way, a wrong way, and the military way of doing things. Guess which way is used. Coyote Bob
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