Bob H.

Ok, now that I'm bug eyed as all get out. Feel like I've been staring at the sun. All but the last worked for me. The big one, looked like a bunch of gears all turning in different directions. Man, my eyes are still funny. Which is odd, because years ago, while shopping in the mall, they had these pictures you would stare at, and the other picture was supposed to become visible. Supposed to. I never once saw the picture. So I'm kinda surprised I saw all but one of these things. I ain't looking again! My eyes are just now getting back to normal.

Yo Bonehead! Sorry, couldn't resist! Actually, they are ALL workable. It just depends on what you want to make, and the size pieces you have available. The low carbon steels work well for anything ornamental, or not needing strength. Higher carbon can be used for knives or tooling, depending on carbon content. If you are a begginer, than stick with low carbon. And as a beginner, you will probably be using a hand hammer, not a power hammer. And lower carbon steels work much easier than high carbon. Now, 1018 is a low carbon steel, moves easily, and great for a lot of ornamental work. A36 is a higher carbon steel, meeting minimun structural requirements. That is what is normally sold at hardware and box stores. And what a lot of us use. It may contain higher carbon, but usuallly not enough to fully harden for something like a knife. Very usefull steel, and very common. Works well for tongs. Around here, 1018 is a special order steel. What I buy at the steel yard is A36. Something like 5160 or higher will be used for knives, tooling, spring fullers, hardie tools, etc. The higher carbon, more care must be taken to work within the proper ranges of heat for that steel. Tell us what steels you can scrounge, and maybe we can be more specific.

Just a thought, but most beginners I see have a habit of working the metal at too hot, or too cold. Both of which may make it break apart. Keep this in mind, and see if that helps you out.

And another one. This one goes to my wife. She picked out some Lacewood for the handle. Brass guard and pommel. Blade is 4 1/4 on the sharpened edge. I did some grinding today on 3 other blades. Just with the 36 grit belt. I'll finish those someday.

Well, shoot, it seems Roosko might be a bit shy. Check out his web page-http://darkknives.com/index.htm, and you will see what else he has made. Dang nice work, and a lot of it!

That's a very nice looking knife, and sheath. Simple, and clean. How do you like the bubinga? And what do you finish it with? I have been using several coats of tung oil on my handles, sanding with 0000 steel wool in between coats. I have not tried any stamping work on my sheaths, as I still make simple, usable sheaths. Once I start taking something out in the woods deer hunting, it don't remain pretty very long!

Yes, I am proud of our military and the sacrifices of the men and women in service, as well as their families. I am not aways so proud of our gov't, which I think is full of corruption. Former USAF Security Policeman, SGT.

That is FANTASTIC! Are there any more of those available?