metal99

Ahhhhhh you, know that makes a lot of sense. That blower isn't exactly light and it mounts almost straight across from that crack. I will be using your idea that's for sure. Thanks for sharing!

That big one is in great shape! I would love to have something like that come my way!

Thanks paulky, I really like that trenton because the face is in super nice shape. I honestly haven't really looked at the forge and blower anvil but I believe it's all cast iron. I haven't tried the rebound on that one yet. I checked the rebound on the Peter wright today and I'm not sure if its up to par. Maybe it's all the rust on top, I will try it out again after I clean it up a bit.

Ill be going back there often that's for sure. The stuff outside has to wait till spring but they have just as much inside that will take a long time to go through.

I still can't believe the score I made lol. I feel like its a dream. I have searched high and low for anvils for a very long time and now I have four of them. Two of them are no good at all tho. This is the one I got yesterday for ten bucks. It's a Canadian blower and for co. It's in bad shape. The heel is broken off. Here is one that my dad gave me. We don't know what it is, it's only got a 74 stamped on the side. This one is my first anvil it was broken in half so I fixed it up. It's a 98lb Trenton. Before I fixed it. After I fixed it. This next one is strange. It's my dads, I don't know for sure what it is. Another thread here on the forum has one in it. From what they were talking about it could either be a railroad bridge anvil or a railroad jack stand. You can tell that it's been pounded in for years. It's actually dished out in the middle pretty good. This next one isn't mine yet but my uncle said when the day comes that he doesn't need it I can pay him what he paid for it. $125 it's about an 80-90lb Swedish Kohlswa in very nice shape. Sorry for the long post you guys. I could talk about this stuff all day :)

I was blown away when he told me the price! That's two anvils in two days for $40!!!!

I was told by an old man about a guy that had an anvil or two kicking around so I payed him a visit. The first day I went there I only found one small cast anvil that was broken but the price was right so I took it home. I got that one for ten dollars, it's about 40 pounds. I just had a feeling that there would be more treasures there so I went back today to do some digging. I spent most of my lunch break out in the snow snooping through his junk. After I moved some large hydraulic pumps and rams I noticed a horn if an anvil sticking out from the snow! I tried getting it out but it was frozen into the ground. Some hot water and a pry bar helped me get it out. I ended up getting a really nice 99lb Peter wright for 30 bucks!!!!! Here it is, I can't wait to clean it up and put it to work.

I just scored an ASO for ten bucks. It's a cast iron canadian blower and forge co. completely beat and the heal is broken off. It's pretty ugly lol. I swear it looks nicer in this picture for some reason.

Thanks for the reply James, I personally wouldn't change the shape if it works for you. My dad and I have skinned our fair share of deer with the old frost Swedish knives and they are much pointier then yours.

If it were after Christmas I definatly would make you am offer but it's a bad time right now :(

Bugger I would have loved to have that anvil but I will assume that I can't afford it now lol

Why do you want to sell it?

You coulda dropped it off! My kitchen table knife shop is in need of an anvil :) I'm kidding lol my wife would not approve. I have one decent anvil but its like an addiction, could always use another one or ten!

Darn I sure wish they would follow me home... I might have to change my cologne? Shower more often? What's the secret? Lol

If you go with a thicker wall tubing like brake lines just bevel the inside of the tubing a little bit with a counter sink once the handle is done. It works well. That way like Sam mentioned, the lanyard won't get cut. If your using very thin tubing like brass or the arrows you could bevel the handle and flare the tubing to mate with the bevel on the handle. If it were me, and this is just my opinion. I wouldn't try to flare the thick tubing because you might not be able to feel when it's flared just enough and risk splitting the handle material.

Sam, I know the properties of O1. I was asking if he had any problems forge welding it to the other steels because it is a completely different creature and it isn't a common addition to damascus because of the different properties. I also use O1 for some knives.

I've used tung oil and really like it. Sam, what's the link for?

Sam, sure you can double flare annealed stainless lines. There's a special flaring tool for stainless and they use a different fitting too. Most parts stores don't recommend double flaring them tho because they are brittle compared to steel lines because they are harder. You can get annealed 303 stainless lines that double flare a little easier but for the most part you "can't" double flare stainless. If I remember correctly you flare steel at 45 degrees and stainless is (I think I remember this right) 37 degrees. I would have to go to the shop and look at my flaring tools to be sure about it tho. I bought all the brake lines to do my "hotrod" just a couple months ago. Back to the lanyard tube convo. I see no reason that aluminum arrows wouldn't work for a lanyard tube. That's actually a pretty good idea!!!!

I would use a good name brand epoxy with a slow cure time 30 minutes or longer. Arizona desert ironwood glues fairly well. Just make sure that it is roughed up very well with some course sand paper. JB weld would work as well but I have had pretty good luck with epoxy.

Can't make it out on my phone but ill take your word for it. What did you use to finish the rosewood?

To bad the failure rate is so high. Great work man I really like it.

You can get stainless brake lines. They are harder and more brittle then steel lines. You can't double flare them like steel either not that it matters in knife making lol. I would use it if you could find a drill bit the right size. You don't have to flare the tubing if you don't want to, you could just bevel the inside edges to prevent the tube from cutting the lanyard material. Some steel shops carry small diameter tubing in different materials.

That hamon is awesome! Very alive!!! Is the blade curved from the "sori" from quenching?

Really like the makume guard idea! That's pretty cool! Did you have any problems getting the O1 to weld with everything els?

Almost looks like you have some rust on the blade now? If you want to patina a blade with citrus fruit you can't leave it in for to long. As soon as it some out wash it with a little baking soda water and then a light oil. I have had good luck with mustard lightly dabbed onto the blade. Let it sit for about ten minutes and wash thoroughly. The less mustard you have the darker the etch. It seems like it won't etch untill it dries a bit.