ksb

I did what Aaron said. Had a 4" sq. 3/4" thick. Cut a hole in middle with torch - more or less square - about spike body size. Heated it up good, pounded spike down into it ( over hardy hole). Heat up spike, put in 'die' and flatten to suit. Ken

I spray with brake cleaner, rinse with water then wipe off with acetone - seems to work for me. Ken

I use brake cleaner to de-grease stuff ( mostly knives ) - it'll kill wasp in a New York second. Ken

I tear n-paper into appx 8 x 10 squares, ball them up. Use about 8- 10. Then 'shred' a couple of pine cones on top of that. Get it lit - give it some air when it gets burning good then put a couple scoops of coal on top. Usually works fine for me. Ken

Probably a 2 kg. French cross pien with a 1.5 kg. German cross pien running a close second. Ken

Here are a few : Wally Hostetter online japanese sword mounts and restoration Japanese Sword Restoration Parts & Supplies - Fred Lohman Company BoguBag.com - Specialty Swords for Iaido, Kendo Kata, & Theater ksb

I've been unable to get hamon on 5160 myself. Have seen pic of a hamon of sorts on 5160 - mostly just a straight line. I'd forget the clay - 5160 seems to through harden in spite of it. Austenize at 1550f. Quench in oil. 3 1 hr temper cycles at 400f - 425f (guess you could go as low as 350f, depending on what you want). I use silver solder on the habaki. KSB

I took a piece of pipe slightly smaller than the drift width and 'mashed' it to an oval that fit the drift, then welded it to a 'stand' somewhat lower than my anvil. That way with the drift in the head it is at a good height to hammer. KSB

I got same problem. Been trying to find 10 & 12" stove pipe. Nobody has anything over 8". Checked a few places on the web - same. ksb

Ed - the fire had coked down ok. From what you say seem I just don't have coal mounded up enough ( thats what i was woundering about myself) . There wasn't much coal over work piece. Blower is a centrifugal type powered by an electric motor. It appears to have been made for a forge. Wide open it'll just about below the coal out of the pot. It has a damper plus I also have a sliding valve from the other blower on it. I think I just need to adjust coal and air. Irnsrgn - Good info.. Like 'they' say - a picture is worth a thousand words. Thanks 'both 'yall. Ken

In case you don't figure I'm just a wanabe blacksmith. Try to do a little blade work. (use my propane forge for that). Trashed my old brake drum firepot. Just didn't seem to do right. Built a new one outa 1/2 " plate. Appx 10" x 12" at top tapering down to appx 2 1/2 - 3 sq. at bottom , 4 1/2 " deep. More than enough blower. Question is - is that deep enough or too deep for general work. I don't have much experience with coal forges but I like to do some things I can't get in my gas forge. Tried to work some leaf spring the other day and even with it laying flat on the table the 'heat' was below it. Maybe I should pile the coal up higher and turn up the air. Any advice/ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks. Ken

Form forward part of blade - thin inside of area where bend will be - it will thicken when you curve it. Form bend over anvil horn or bick. ksb

Jens - I use satanite. Only done a few in 1050. If I use ashi I don't run them all the way to the edge. (maybe close - 1/8 - 3-16 from) . Mostly choji or gunome pattern with little or no ashi. If trying to get sori in a katana then I leave the spine well covered. If not (tanto for exp) then I scrape clay off top of spine. I put a thin wash on entire blade then go ahead and put 'pattern' on. Unless I in a hurry I let the clay dry overnight. Using a gas forge( 40" long). Been thinking 'bout building an electeic one. For etch I use FeC or lemon juice, or vinegar. Rub out with Flitz or Semichrome Ken

I mostly do as 'yall - as the handle goes on I trim it just enough to keep it from splintering - real tight. Then put wedges in. And I once read a book that said to soak the head in linseed oil. So I asked an old time blacksmith in the area 'bout that. He said to soak the whole handle & head for a few days in ls oil. Only been a few months so recon I'll find out one day ksb

Talked to Mike today - he indicated that the hammer workshop is 'on' - with however many (or few) people sign on. He is trying to get everybody concerned to get their money in now (don't know how much). It's set for the weekend of 26 May. If you are interested his number is 850/576-8356 (he is in & out a lot). The last em add. I had for him is : Poisonivory1234@aol.com KSB PS Henry - don't 'ya need a vacation ? Come on down .

Will -- I got a em today from one of the faba members - said it was time to get $$ to Mike for the hammer workshop. I'll try to call Mike next day or so and find out if it is really on. I'll post back when I find out something. ksb

Don't know where you are but 'they' are trying to get one here in Tallahassee, Fl sometime in May. I talked to Clay a few months ago and he said he wasn't gona release any plans 'till he had all the bugs worked out. If they have it here its gona be at (MIke)Bettinger's Welding. KSB

Doc - 'bout the anvil stand - I used what I had at the time. I have learned to work around it but am gona build one like on the other anvil (one day ..... maybe ). Also anvil weight is 98 lb. ksb

Hi Doc .. I made my 1st anvil from 2 pc of rr iron. Did like you - welded the 2 side by each. Then Welded 2 pc of grader blade together and welded it to the top of the rr iron. put in 1" hardie hole. Didn't HT. It ain't the best in the world but it workes fairly well as is. Got a small Nash also. Try to do a bit of blade work and wind up using the rr anvil for that. Here are some links to pic of it. Ken

I got a Grizzly also. Made a new rest to my specs. Seems a bit underpowered at times but other than that I like it. ksb