johnnie

I have recently got my power hammer running and am having a on going problem forging. Every time I do a taper the piece seems to be twisting. I have checked the dies and they both seem to be true to level but each time the hammer hits the steel I can feel the steel twisting in my hands or tongs. I know to correct this is to hit the highest point and square things out but where am I going wrong in the first place????

I agree but thanks Mac, think I am in love!

Is it me or are you having problems seeing the photos????

Hi guys, as I've said in an earlier post, I was given some huge forklift tines. Too heavy to lift between to blokes. I decides now my power hammer is finally up and running I would cut the tines and have a go at making a new die for the hammer. Not sure if I was wasting my time not knowing what steel I was working with and if it would be hard enough for 50kg power hammer dies. It took half an hour to cut a piece out of the fork and almost 2composite cutting disks. Couple of hours more of carefully cutting and grinding and it looked the part. Now for the test. I heated up a large piece of spring leaf 6" x1" and tapered it down. Not a mark on the surface. Tried a taper out of 1" square bar and still not a dimple on the surface. After another couple of hours forging still nothing!!! I think I've just saved myself best part of 600 quid and I still have the rest of the first fork and a second one. Any idea's on what to make next and what tooling they would be good for?

Here are some photos of my Beaudry's Peerless hammer, set up and ready to go! Lovely machine to used but I think its going to take a lot of practice to master her. Its a great feeling watching the steel move with every blow of the hammer. In the last photo is the new concrete pad with celutex insulation to help stop vibrations in the rest of the forge floor.

Hi guys, here are some photos of my new touchmark. Quite simple to make. My brother in law owns an engravers company and engraved my initials on some mild steel bar. Stamping spring steel over the engraving wasn't working so I welded a rebar around the mark as a guide and tried again. Bingo it worked. Not a mark on the original mild steel so will be good to make many more. After heat treating the spring steel here are the results. Should anyone want their own design engraved like this his website is www.grimesengravers.com He says its easy to send a proof via email and he's not expensive.

Crystal clear, once again thank you Hofi for taking the time to share your knowledge with us.

Thanks Hofi, with your help the results are endless.

Very informative, thank you for sharing this!

Brasilkilt, just be bad this Christmas and santa will leave you some!!

Thanks Bent but that old girl aint got a patch on my old Beaudrys. If your looking for a power hammer, happy hunting!!

After five long months after a eleven hour road trip my Beaudry's Peerless hammer is running!!! A new 18" deep reinforced concrete pad, various bearings, greased points and lots of sweat and swearing she is finally running. I have a small problem with the slip belt rubbing on the drive wheel which obviously needs a shim but other than that she is great. Tooling needed now and I am a happy fella. I shall get some photos/videos on here on the weekend. Happy happy happy!!!!

1915 Beaudry's Peerless hammer with a lovely 50kgs at maximum thrust!!

Ha ha thanks Neil. Sourcing 6" soild spheres in the UK seems difficult. I have manage to buy them in the past but am struggling to find them now. Monstermetal has the right idea using hollow balls with lead. Although two pieces of 6" box section would do but prehaps not look right. I could put a ring handle on it but feel more in control with a weighted arm to swing about. Decisions decisions!!

Good looking twists....over the top? No, I think they look great!

Just been to see my friend and bought only six bags. Whilst forging with him I couldn't belive how much of the coke was used. Lots. To be honest it doesn't seem to be great quality. Dirty and bags contained bits of plastic and other debris. Mobs and mobs of clinker too. Plus side was the bean size. All about 20mm which was nice and 3 days of working with him.

Just curl what you have got TJ the thinner they are the easier they will disappear in the forge again. Remember to walk before you run. Good luck and we love photos

Just bought myself a press and this post has helped a lot. Its a 6ton press but comes with no handle so having no balls is the least of my problems!!

Thanks guys, found it! Can be a tad confusing on here sometimes, cheers.

I agree with the 3/4" ply.I have just dug dowm 15" to reach clay and filled with reinforced concrete topped with exterior ply ready for my Beaudry Peerless no 7. Going to epoxy resin the 6 rag bolts and wait a month for the concrete to "green off" before firing her up for the first time. All very exciting!!

Hi guys, I am looking to sell a "homemade" power hammer made by a very clever engineer (not me) Can I advertise it on here as the for sale section seemes to have disappeared? Would be available in the UK. Cheers.

I was wondering what your favourite work is in the forge. What makes you look forward to lighting the forge the most and why?

Perhaps forge the leaf or whatever and the loop. Stick it in a vice and finish the twist with oxy propane torch. You'd have a lot more control and time to achive the desired twist.

Hi John I am not to sure on the quality or bean size although a friend of mine is using it everyday in his forge and says its fine. A contact of his has bought two thousand tonnes of the stuff which his is grading and washing. I will get 250kg for £50. For that if its crap I will mix it up with the anthracite I am using at the moment. Can't be worse than the crap I am using. Talk about clinker. It burns dirty too making welding a nightmare. Not going to the UK until next month so will keep you posted.

Thanks guys, yes had a problem since IFI went back on line. Spoke to Glen and he couldn't solve the problem. Got to start all over again but hey at least i can get on here!