Hillbillysmith

I strongly agree with Jose. More info is needed.

Case of Beer: $15. Ton of Coal: $25. Truck bed full of Stock: $50. Having the day off and pretending the steel is your boss: PRICELESS!!! I do like this one though: "I have found that I always learn more from my mistakes than from my successes. If you aren't making some mistakes, you aren't taking enough chances." -John Sculley

First off, I would like to be the first one to say; welcome to the site! If you have any questions, don't be afraid to ask. Everyone here will be more than willing to share their knowledge with youy and everyone else. The way you describe the bottle, I'm not sure if you can get the bottle refilled. If it's a REALLY old bottle I, personally, would keep it and keep it separate because of the classic or historical nature of the bottle. But that's my opinion. I'm not sure where you can go to have them REFILLED, because around here where I live, you have to take them in to th local welding supply and get them EXCHANGED. The supplier sends the bottles back to the manufacturer to have them tested and then refilled. P.S; I said that I would keep it just because I love "antique" tools and things of that sort from WW2 era. It's my opinion and my opinion ONLY and that's that. There is nothing wrong with exchanging it or getting it refilled. -Hillbilly

Electricity takes the path of least resistance, not the shortest path. It CAN go through the crane but if your welding something big enough to need a CRANE, then no. Especially if it has pieces welded together already. The ground will go through the weld straight to the ground. Like JR said, your making a mountain out of a pimple (funny saying btw ). You probably have a better chance of lightning coming into your shop and striking you while you're welding because of the ionic charge that can be emitted from the electrical current making an electromagnetic field that can create an attraction to the storm. This is a thoughtful and very good question, but it's almost like asking: if you weld in the garage next to a little puddle of water coming out of the hose on the concrete floor, can the current get sucked into the water hose and follow the water into the piping inside the house and shock someone in the house washing their hands or someone doing dishes. I'm not making fun, just saying that you probably don't need to be all THAT cautious. Just use common sense when doing something. Don't over-psychoanalyze the situation. -Hillbilly

SOME cast iron will come APART with a torch, but it's a real pain. It's doesn't CUT the cast necessarily, but melts it enough that the oxygen will push it out of the way (this is not how a cutting torch works to cut regular mild steel for those who think that this IS how the torch cutting process works). Very ugly and messy as all get out. Abrasive wheels work great, but they take a while. Especially if the cast has any "meat on it's bones" LOL. I have found that some can be scored just enough with a cut-off wheel and then snapped like floor tile. It's faster but not as guaranteed as cutting it out-right. I only have one question though, why would you want or need to cut cast?? It's called CAST iron for a reason.... Because it's casted into what ever shape or object that it needs to be. I can understand a job like Cami said, but not much more than that.

Put up a welding curtain around someone that is welding near you i the shop. It does help. As for the tapping the stinger before you get the helmet down, that's just mistiming. Wen you get welding alot, the lift up and flipping down messes with the side screw adjustment and it sometimes gets tighter. Tight enough that you don't nod your head hard enough and it doesn't come down all the way. Thus, getting a little extra sun tanning on your face. LOL Most of the time, it's either accidental or jut plain not paying any attention. But sometime, just sometimes, it's our own fault and we are dead to rights guilty just as JWB has said. We have all been there and we all will most likely be there again. And again, and again... It's just our natural reaction to cut corners to pick up some time so we just "Hillbilly" the job......... -Hillbilly

Here is some more info that I thought of to post for those that are new: Replacement leads aren't any different than factory leads, it's just that you can't have too small of lead for the length and/or the amperage. REPLACEMENT (COPPER) LEAD LENGTH SPECIFICATIONS: --------100A-150A-200A-250A-300A-350A-400A-450A-500A -50FT----2----2-----2----2-----1----1/0--1/0---2/0--2/0 -75FT----2----2-----1---1/0---2/0---2/0--3/0---3/0--4/0 100FT----2----1----1/0--2/0---3/0---4/0--4/0 125FT----2---1/0---2/0--3/0---4/0 150FT----1---2/0---3/0--4/0 175FT---1/0--3/0---4/0 200FT---1/0--3/0---4/0 250FT---2/0--4/0 300FT---3/0 350FT---3/0 400FT---4/0 REPLACEMENT (ALUMINUM) LEAD LENGTH SPECIFICATIONS: --------100A-150A-200A-250A-300A-350A-400A-450A-500A -50FT----2----2----1/0---2/0--2/0---3/0--4/0 -75FT----2---1/0---2/0---3/0--4/0 100FT---1/0--2/0---4/0 125FT---2/0--3/0 150FT---2/0--3/0 175FT---3/0 200FT---4/0 225FT---4/0 This is more for safety purposes than anything. If you use too small of lead size for the length you want or for the amperage that you are running, it WILL melt the lead and potentially causing extreme injury or loss of garage, tools, cars, house, etc. in a fire. Another thing, if a lead gets hot, don't dip it in water. I know this sounds like a no-brainer, but you have no idea how many times I have heard of incidents where someone gets electrocuted from doing this. ELECTRICITY AND WATER DON'T MIX!!!! Play it smart people. use your common sense. But bigger than what you need is perfectly ok. It's just cumbersome to work with. HARDFACING/HARD SURFACING: Hardfacing is a surfacing process in which hard materials are applied to the surface of a part to reduce wear or loss of material by impact, abrasion, or both impact/abrasion. Hardfacing a part also results in fewer repairs due to wear. These beads may be laid in a basket weave or a dot pattern. These patterns are used when sticky material such as dirt or mud comes in contact with the part. The sticky material accumulates in the depressed areas of the basket weave pattern. The build-up of dirt or mud helps to protect the metal from further abrasion. In the BUTTERING process, one or more layers of easily welded materials are applied to the surface of a part that has poor welding characteristics. This process is used to form a transition layer when welding dissimilar metals. The CLADDING process is used to apply surfacing materials that will improve the corrosion or heat resistance of a part. When a part is worn, the surface may be returned to it's original dimensions by using the BUILDUP PROCESS. Things to consider when choosing a surfacing electrode: *Hardness *Hot hardness *Impact strength *Oxidation resistance *Corrosion resistance *Abrasion resistance *Metal-to-metal wear resistance *Machinability One thing to remember when using surfacing electrodes, THEY ARE GOING TO BE HARD AND FOR GOOD REASON! If you are going to hardface something, make sure that it is to the proper size or shape BEFORE you surface it. It will take you forever and a day to grind this stuff down and it will never be as square, straight, true, level, smooth, etc. as you want it to be. Always remember to build up the surface first and grind to the rough shape and THEN surface the object. Take it from me, I failed to do this once and I spent literally FOUR DAYS grinding the piece to the shape I needed it to be. And when I say I did that once, I mean ONCE. You'll learn after the first time!! Lincoln Electric makes some excellent surfacing electrodes. They even give a Rockwell C hardness rating for alot of the impact and abrasion/impact electrodes. Another thing to remember when wanting to hardface something; it's probably going to be an alloy material/ high-strength steel already and will need to be preheated and, depending on the material and how much surfacing you put on at one time, post heat-treatment. And if you need to grind the surfacing down any, try to keep the heat input to a minimum so it doesn't take any of the hardness or "surfacing" properties away from the freshly laid material or else you would have done all that work and invested all that time for NOTHING. Hope this helps as well. If more info is needed, just ask and I will keep posting. Feel free to ask specific questions so they can be explained with more in-depth explanations. -Hillbilly

Hardfacing electrodes and specialty electrodes (for special alloy steels) are a whole 'nother ball game. The same goes for stainless steel electrodes as well. And forget about welding cast iron. It is POSSIBLE, but you need to know what type it is and everything. it's best to just braze it when you can. Best of luck, -Hillbilly

Just a little tip to all those that are new to welding: Welding supplies/equipment isn't cheap. And keep in mind, YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!!! Auto-darkening helmets are nice, but any of them below $200 (in my experiences) are not going to last very long, but they should be just fine for garage use. I, personally, prefer a normal non-auto darkening helmet. They're cheap and will always work. Especially for stick. Just my opinion. You can do as you wish. And more info to those new to welding--- ELECTRODE CLASSIFICATION BREAKDOWN: (example):E-7018= "E"= Electrode. "70"= 70,000 pound tensile strength. (This refers to the deposited weld metal after it is cool.) "1"= The position it can be welded in. "18"= The polarity in which it can be run on. POSITIONS: Exx1x=All positions Exx2x=Flat and horizontal fillet welds only Exx3x=Flat positions only Exx4x=Flat, horizontal, overhead, and vertical down POLARITIES:----AC=Alternating Current ----------------DCEP=Direct Current Electrode Positive ----------------DCEN=Direct Current Electrode Negative EXX10=DCEP EXX11=AC/DCEP EXX12=AC/DCEN EXX13=AC/DCEN EXX14=AC/DCEP/DCEN EXX15=DCEP EXX16=AC/DCEP EXX18=AC/DCEP EXX20=AC/DCEN (for horizontal fillet welds only) AC/DCEP/DCEN (for flat position welding only) EXX24=AC/DCEP/DCEN EXX27=AC/DCEN ((for horizontal fillet welds only) AC/DCEP/DCEN (for flat position welding only) EXX28=AC/DCEP EXX48=AC/DCEP AWS Classification----Type of covering E6010----------------High Cellulose, Sodium E6011----------------High Cellulose, Potassium E6012----------------High Titania, Sodium E6013----------------High Titania, Potassium E6020----------------High Iron Oxide E6022----------------High Iron Oxide E6027----------------High Iron Oxide, Iron Powder E7014----------------Iron Powder, Titania E7015----------------Low Hydrogen, Sodium E7016----------------Low Hydrogen, Potassium E7018----------------Low Hydrogen, Potassium/Iron Powder E7024----------------Iron powder, Titania E7027----------------High Iron Oxide, Iron Powder E7028----------------Low Hydrogen, Potassium/Iron Powder E7048----------------Low Hydrogen, Potassium/Iron Powder You may also encounter an electrode that has extra suffixes attached to the tail end (E10016-D2) These extra suffixes indicate extra alloying elements within the electrode. ALLOYING ELEMENTS: (Reference the "Periodic Table Of Elements") A1----------1/2% Mo B1----------1/2% Cr, 1/2% Mo B2----------1-1/4% Cr, 1/2% Mo B3----------2-1/4% Cr, 1% Mo C1----------2-1/2% Ni C2----------3-1/4% Ni C3----------1% Ni, 0.35% Mo, 0.15% Cr D1----------0.25-0.45% Mo, 1.25-2.00% Mn D2----------SAME AS D1^ G-----------0.50% minimum Ni, 0.30% minimum Cr, 0.20% minimum Mo, 0.10% minimum V, 1.00% minimum Mn, 0.80% minimum Si (Only one of the listed elements is required for the "G" classification). LOW HYDROGEN ELECTRODE APPLICATIONS (USE) E7015-----Used for welding low carbon or alloy steels. Power shovels and other earthmoving machinery require this rod. The weld files or machines easily. Use DCEP only. E7016-----Same general application as E7015 except it can be used on either DCEP or AC. E7018-----Similar to E7015 and E7016. The heavy covering allows the use of high speed drag welding. Used on AC or DCEP. E7028-----For low carbon alloy steels. Use AC or DC (either polarity). I hope this helps all those in need of more or better information to progress in their stick welding skills. Remember; practice is the key, you can't expect yourself to go from zero to welding ASME code high-pressure vessel steam lines over night. I have a couple more simple tips: First, E6010 and E6011 are basically the same rod. E6010 is meant for DCEP only and E6011 is meant for either AC or DCEP. They run the same, so it doesn't matter which one you practice with. These rods you use a "whip-and-pause" motion when running them. --><--/--><-- You "whip" out of the puddle to burn out the base metal and then come back in and "pause" to fill up the weld bead. Secondly, E7018, you use an "up-and-down" motion with this rod. ////// Pausing at the top just a little more than the bottom because gravity will pull it down. When using this electrode, be sure to angle the rod back toward the puddle to keep the molten slag from running in front of the puddle. if this happens, STOP!!! You WILL get slag inclusions at the root. There is no way to fix this while welding. Stop, ship out the slag from the root and restart. Some manufacturers make a separate E7018 rod for AC and DCEP. Although according to code, they are all supposed to run the same on either polarity. They don't and that's that. Thirdly, The most common rods you will run into are E6010/E6011, E7014, E7018, and E7024. E6010/E6011 are run the same way (as I explained previously). All other rods are run mostly SIMILAR to E7018 except E7024. E7024 is only to be dragged along the weld joint. NO MOTION AT ALL WITH THIS ROD. You will get slag inclusions if you do. **Little trick with E7014** Don't use in vertical fillet weld positions. It says it can be used that way, but it won't come out right. And, it works best on AC. lastly, not all welding rods are going to run the EXACT same. From Lincoln to Hobart and from Esab to Forney, different rod manufacturers design their welding rod material as well as their flux covering differently than everyone else. Play around and find out which brand of which rod works best for you. Practice, have fun and don't just stick it together; WELD IT! :cool:

Jeremy k; you are right all the way, but even with your years of experience I am going to have to disagree about the high amperage harder to get rid of porosity. I have found that as long as you keep the puddle liquid until it gets a smooth silver finish.

You're doing most of everything right although I can make a few suggestions. You can use 2% thorium tungsten on aluminum with no problems at all. I know, I've done this many times on actual work for people and it welds just fine but I would use an 1/8th inch electrode and sharpen it to a very fine point. The heat from welding will ball the electrode for you. The cup size is ok but I would turn up the gas to 20-25 CFH. I have a couple of questions about the amperage settings though; are you using some type of rheostat? (ie; foot pedal, slide control/roller on the torch?) If you are, and I personally prefer a foot pedal, turn the amperage up to about 175-200. If you have an adjustment for the AC sign wave (max clean/max penetration) turn it to about 25% of max penetration (ex; if the knob on the machine is numbered 1-10, 1 being max clean and 10 being max penetration, set it about 2-3 and make sure you get it hot enough. One trick that I've learned and tell people all the time is let the area that you're welding get to a pool and wait until it gets to a "liquid mirror" look and then just shove the filler in. You don't just dip the filler like you do stainless. Just blob it in there (don't get the weld TOO big though). Cast aluminum is some nasty $*it to work with. Use 4043 aluminum for the filler material. While welding aluminum, the puddle will not just "snap" together like steel/stainless steel will. You just need to get the first ripple and then the rest should just move right along once you get the hang of it. Btw, SOME aluminum CAN NOT be welded. If you know or can find out the grade of aluminum the casting is, I can see if it's weldable or not. I have a bunch of books on aluminum (roughly a dozen of my own) that I can reference for you. And remember: practice, Practice, PRACTICE makes perfect. :D

Yes, a worn out contact tip is the most common reason for wire feed problems but I would assume that that is the first thing 99.99% of people with wire welders will check. And if THAT's ok, then it has to be something else. I forgot, it could also be that the liner isn't put in correctly. Not just at the drive rollers, but at the head of the gun too. All liners should come extra long so they can be trimmed to proper length. And most people don't get the liner all the way up into the gas diffuser.

Also make sure you have the right size drive rollers for the wire. You can't be using .035 wire with .030 rollers. Check the roller size and tension first and then the condition/placement of the liner. To set the drive roller tension, loosen the rollers until they barely feed the wire. Then continue to tighten the rollers about a 1/2 turn at a time until you can barely stop the wire with your thumb and index finger at the nozzle of the gun. This is more than sufficient tension on the rollers.

Do not use HSS (High Speed Steel) for ANY impact applications. Just make, design, forge, etc. your part and get some hardfacing rods. Lincoln makes some great High Impact/ High Wear-Resistance hardfacing rods. These will be awesome for a hot cutter and a guillotine tool. But just get a cheapo auto hood from harbor freight and practice, Practice, PRACTICE!! Get some E-6010, E-6013, E-7014, E-7018, and some E-7024. Just mess around with them and get a book of some type that will give you diagrams and weld until you can't weld no more. I, too, weld for a living and let me tell you, you don't want to just "stick the pieces together". You want it to hold no matter what. If you just want a hot cutter, I have found that masonry chisels work wonders (as long as you don't harden it too bad).

The slag protects the weld from the outside atmosphere, cleaning purposes, and on some rods part of the slag goes into the weld. By the time that you are done welding a part, the underlying weld metal will be totally solidified and chipping away the slag will not cause any problems. I would let it cool just so the slag comes off easier and it won't hurt as bad when it hits your eye. Now if you quench your weld, THAT is a completely different story......

You can join the two by soldering them. It can also be done by brazing, but this is NOT easy for the average hobbyist.

Awesome lamp. What is that finished in?? Btw, who is that in the second pic on the computer monitor?

Thank you for replying evfreek. Would you we willing to send me the plans? Or did you know what to do? If you have plans and will send them to me, please PM me and I will give you my E-mail. BTW, I don't know what polarity SAW is ran on but I will reference this tomorrow and will let you know. If I remember correctly, it's straight polarity (DC-). But like I said, I will reference this and confirm tomorrow. Thank you, -Hillbilly

He did it to me too. He only gave me an 8.00! Just kidding LOL. Here: Knife-4 - Blacksmith Photo Gallery

It will have black deposits either way you go, but you are right Dodge. It will contaminate the weld if there is any CO2 in the gas. So, use pure argon.... If I remember right, I think you can use argon mixed with Helium. As long as it's an INERT environment you'll be good. I just did aluminum MIG today, but I used 100% argon.

I seem to remember someone on here say that they made a TIG welder from a microwave oven. I would like this person to reply back or PM me because I would like to know how they did it and want to know if they would please tell me where they got the plans from or if they would send me the plans. I would LOVE to build one. Looking forward to the reply(s) please and thank you. -Hillbilly

I use Smith at the school I go to. They are very nice, but I personally like the Victor over them all. My reason for this is I like using my thumb to operate the oxygen cutting lever instead of my fingers. (I get a better/more steady of a hold on the torch that way.) But Smith is the best on the market to my knowledge.

I agree with Welder19 on this one. Get a mentor who will teach you the proper way to do things, or take a class that will do the same. I have done pipe welding before, but am not a pipe welder. Take it from me, it is not and easy task to do. learning to read the puddle from where you are standing and tell whats going on inside the pipe is not a skill that comes overnight nor is it one that can be self-taught. Get someone to teach you, and get some pipe. LOTS OF PIPE!!! And remember, practice is the key. Good luck to you in your future endeavors, -Hillbilly P.S. Practice welding pipe with the process you are going to use. If you are going to weld pipe at the job with stick, don't bother waisting your time TIG welding the pipe or visa versa. If you are going to use both, then by all means, DO both. But it does come in handy to know all that you can. Just another little tip.

It weighs approximately 20-25 pounds.

We are currently practicing for the NOCTI test (National Occupational Competency Testing Institute). We have already taken our written test (and I can post my test results if wanted) and now we are going to do the skilled portion (the actual welding) of the test tomorrow. We have to do a vertical up, V-groove, E7018, 1/4 inch root opening, 60 degree bevel with a backing for stick; all-around MIG weld in spray-arc metal transfer in the horizontal position on a square tube to a flat plate which will be subject to a dye-penetrant testing; Oxy-Acy cut whatever the blueprint says; Aluminum fillet "Tee joint" in the horizontal position with TIG; and Stainless steel fillet "lap joint" in the horizontal position with TIG as well. This test rates you against everyone else in the nation. Here is one of my aluminum practice welds: