Lutz

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About Lutz

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fort Wayne, Indiana
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Bladesmithing, Karate, Psychology

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  1. Everyone has given a wealth of information above, I would just add that the American Bladesmith Society (ABS; www.americanbladesmith.com) is a good resource for learning about the principles of forging a blade, sword or otherwise. Much of the info will tend towards more modern techniques and you'll find more knife makers than sword makers in their membership, but until you can forge a quality knife and understand the principals of the same, sword making should remain on the to-do list. You can also view their membership roster to see if there are bladesmiths in your area who might be able to serve as a mentor or at least offer some input as you learn.
  2. We didn’t end up with enough folks signed up, so we had to scrap it. I don’t have a large enough facility myself, so I was coordinating with folks at SOFA. I’m actually attending another tirehammer build, so I probably won’t be pushing to set up another, but if you don’t have a large enough shop yourself you could always contact the workshop coordinator there in Troy and see what they think about trying again. Send me a message if you’d like his contact info.
  3. JHCC, I don’t think they’ve updated their website yet, but SOFA announced on their Facebook page that for 2018: “Next year's dates for Quad State are Sept 21st,22nd & 23rd. And the gallery Feature catergory is Animal forms .”
  4. Here’s the latest info. Contact myself or Mike Brennan (see below) for more details. Ray Clontz Tire Hammer Workshop (50 lb) Location: SOFA Building; Troy, Ohio Dates: April 19-22, 2018 40 plus hours over 4 days Estimated Cost: $1500 ...Pricing is by no means complete at this point Requirements: Current SOFA membership (apply on SOFA website: https://sofablacksmiths.org/) Prior work: 2-4 subassembly sessions will be held at the SOFA building on weekends prior to the workshop. All participants must attend these sessions or fabricate the pieces at their homes or pay a $100 fee per missed pre-assembly session. Review: Review attachments from Clay Spencer (available on request) to better understand the depth of the tire hammer build. Motels and Camping: I-75 and St. Rte. 41 is the closest major intersection for motels, restaurants and retail stores. Camping is available on the Miami County Fairgrounds. Necessary for Build: As you can see on the attachment from Clay Spencer, this is a labor intensive project involving lifting and carrying up to 50lbs. as well as long days on your feet. At a minimum, experience working with metal and mechanical ability are required. It will be necessary that within the group some participants be certified or experienced welders, machinists, and/or fabricators. Please let Mike Brennan (see below) know which of these skills you possess. Those Interested: Respond to Mike Brennan, Workshop Coordinator at [email protected] Send no down payment at this time. I am gathering a list of those who are interested until November 30.
  5. Probably true for most administrative endeavors unfortunately. Thanks for your thoughts!
  6. Lutz

    Integral Bolster

    JHCC, good eye! That’s one of things I wasn’t happy with, but I decided to stop chasing it. I thought about adding some filework on the spine to hide it, but as this project was just a learning experience I was ready to move on. You could be right about the Spanish notch. General consensus seems to be they serve no real purpose and are just decorative. I included because it was a common feature on the Samuel Bell dirks after which this knife is modeled (in my case rather loosely). Great quote, by the way. A sentiment I’m sure most of us share.
  7. Hi All. Here’s one I just finished up after putzing with it off and on over the last several months. I forged the blade from 5160 in a workshop Butch Sheely taught at SOFA earlier in the year. It’s my first attempt at this style of knife. Lots of firsts in this knife in fact; first time using a lathe which was used to turn the copper spacer and ferrule nut and first time doing a threaded tang. The handle is katalox, which is also a first, but I rather liked it as a handle material. It’s very dense and hard. There’s about 20 things I would’ve liked to have a done a better job on, but all things considered I’m pleased with how it turned out.
  8. Wayne, thanks for sharing. It’s certainly interesting to hear that history, especially from your perspective as a former board member. I’d be interested to know your thoughts on the proposed changes as whole, especially knowing that you penned the prior version.
  9. Hello WayneCoe. You are correct, there is no mention of that in the bylaws. However, like you observed I was concerned that the future plans for the affiliates was rather vague in the proposed updates. So I contacted the ABANA office to ask about it. The reply I received is quoted above; that's where the 501(c)3 classification was mentioned as a possibility. Something I thought it was good to be aware of, though there does not appear to be a hard and fast decision as of yet.
  10. As many of you probably did, I recently received the ballot to vote on the proposed ABANA bylaw changes and I took a few minutes to read the proposed changes before casting my vote. You can do so here if you like: https://abana.org/business/by-laws/. As a member of both ABANA and a local affiliate group (Indiana Blacksmithing Association), I was a little concerned with the language changes related to affiliate groups. The re-write seems to leave the future of the affiliates a little uncertain. I emailed the ABANA office to ask about this, and I received the following unofficial reply: "Just my person opinion [sic] here… The board has talked at length with proposed (and stricter) requirements for the affiliates. I believe they may want to impose regulations for maintaining a non-profit status among the affiliates (ensuring that they comply with IRS regulations, and/or require a 501( c)3 status), require formal bylaws, executive board structure, number of meetings, etc. I don’t think there is a structured plan to grandfather existing affiliates into new requirements, or at least, I haven’t heard of any." I thought it was good for those potential changes to be on the radar for the many different ABANA affiliate groups. I'm sure there has been a lot of discussion about why those potential changes are important, but I expressed my concern that if such changes are implemented to quickly or to stringently, it could negatively impact the affiliates; I feel those local groups are really the face of ABANA and often the first contact for new smiths. Fortunately our Indiana group is already a 501(c)3, but obtaining a 501(c)3 status can be somewhat of an involved and costly endeavor for those who are not. My hope would be that ABANA would work with the affiliates to make those changes happen if that is ultimately what is required, but I thought it would be good to make others aware so they could be working to that end as well.
  11. Ha, good question Steve! I don't have a good answer aside from not seeming to carve out the time. I literally have every mtg both at New Haven and the 'unofficial' Salomon Farms in my calendar, but always seem to be out of town or have another commitment when the time comes. Making it more often is still on my list of goals however!
  12. If you’re thinking of building a power hammer, might I direct you to this recent advert: I’m in Indiana also, but up in Fort Wayne in the more northernly part of the state.
  13. Lutz

    Newbie

    Anvils in America (AIA) places the manufacture date at 1906 for a serial number of 122,088. A serial number of 22,088 would be a manufacture date of 1895. So either way it’s got quite a few stores to tell!
  14. Lutz

    Newbie

    Thanks for the additional pics. My copy of AIA is at home, but if no one beats me to it I'll take a look this evening and see if can give you a time frame for when your anvil was made.
  15. Lutz

    Newbie

    Greetings. Do you see any numbers along the front of the foot? If you can discern a serial number, it will help to date your anvil.