urnesBeast

Greebe, Until last week, he had TWO 335# Guess where the other one is going... They are not going out of business. They are moving production from Czeck [spelling corrected] to USA. Look at the price of the 335# to what the price for the 175# will be once production is moved to USA, or the cost of a 175# from other manufacturers. you might do what I did, get the #335. -Doug

Like I said, good price and quality on tongs, bending jigs, cone and step mandrel. Guillotine tool was "serviceable" -not recommended though Bottom fullers, they broke after drawing out the second s-hook. I plan to buy more of his stuff.

I just bought a very similar forge and blower. Mine was a No 400 blower that is in great shape (2 full rotations after I stop turning), but the forge is the same geometry as yours except it has a slack tub on the end. The slack tub goes down in a triangular fashion, and is rusted out a bit. I stole it for $25, and a 5 hour drive one way to pick it up. I would have paid $500 or more for the set-up. Glad that woman did not know what eBay was! -Doug

hmm, wondering if I could heat sauna rocks in the forge, then haul them off to Sauna... Doug- Former Finlander

I have had good luck with Poor Boy Blacksmith tools. He sells on eBay and ships worldwide. in my experience they are good for the price with one exception: If he welded it, and you plan to beat on it (fullers for the hardy) it will not stand up. I was most happy with his tongs, those are welded too, but you do not beat on them. eBay Store - Poor Boy Blacksmith Tools: Category 1 Doug

There are applications for your iphone that will dial 911 with a single button. For 99 cents, it is probably worth installing.

Gentlemen, This should be settled with a duel. At dawn, each of you will be given a piece of steel, anvil, hammer forge of choice. The first to make a sword may then approach the other... Doug PS: I call dibs on the survivor's forge.

Bad Creek, I was thinking that with a drill press set up at a slight angle and a set depth, I would be able to drill all these holes identical and quickly. Why would it be better to do this once the wall is up? Seems like a lot of holes and overhead work to me. What am I missing? Doug

The question of the diamondback forge living through the fire, it is completely understandable. The smithy burned completely to the ground. The hoses for the propane melted, if I could have found the gauges, I would not trust them. The body of the forge is salvageable. Thr firebrick might be OK. The insulation blanket should be replaced, not from the fire of course, but from the water. -Doug

I had a diamondback forge, need to rebuild it since it did not make it through the smithy fire I had a few months ago. It is the only gasser I have ever used, but saw no reason to get a different one. The hammer in I took it to yielded many questions from folks that wanted one too, I figure that is good... -Doug

I would recommend a much smaller hammer, or a much bigger piece of steel! A regular ball peen would work better for you. It will help with hammer control.

Actually, there will be no "space between studs" to use. I will be dry walling the entire room and there is insulation between the studs. The more I think about this idea, the more I like it. My only concern is the weight on the wall pulling the wall inwards. I have decided to simply attach a level to the wall in a few places and monitor. If it ever starts to move out of level, then it is time to detach the rack and think again. -Doug

Why would this work best in a pole barn?

I have a fairly unique opportunity with the construction of this new smithy. I have been thinking about stock racks and I think I know what I want to do. I am a hobbyist, do not expect to have a ridiculous amount of steel. I kept thinking of ways to attach the stock rack to the wall, when I realized: I don't have a wall yet, build it right in! So, along the 19 foot wall, I am thinking every 3 feet, I would have a double stud (two 2x4 long faces together) turned the opposite direction to the regular studs, flush with the inside wall. From four foot up to the top there would be holes drilled through all but 1/4 of an inch of this doubled 2x4. These holes would be like 3 inches apart. Now put the drywall up. Find the holes, punch through. Put some facing board to cover the fragile drywall with the same hole pattern. Now, wherever I need a stock rack, I put tubing directly into the wall. They will be laid out on a grid pattern all over the back wall. If I keep the tubing short the weight will stay near the wall and not act as a lever to pull it inward. With all these extra studs, the weight of the material will not really matter. By keeping the tubing shelves short, the leverage will not matter. I should be able to have lots of short shelves. If I the uprights are too far apart, I would be able to add a shelf between two tubes pretty easy. Attached is a 5 minute mockup. Simply nailing this to the wall, poorly, it was able to support 110lbs without issue or tearing away from the wall. Thoughts? How closely spaced are your stock rack arms, horizontally and vertically?

I should state some more of my constraints here: The wall without windows looks out on to a fence and my "not so friendly" neighbor. No windows on that side. I want my chimney going that direction because I would rather not look at it from my yard. The windows are on the side they are on because that is the west, and it is the only side that does not have a stockade fence within five feet. I am about to post an idea for a stock rack, I expect it to go on the windowless side. It would be really great if I could think of a way to have the forge area not set either. I really liked my side draft forge. My current plan is to have them frame out three different locations for the side draft to go. I will have the other two there and "punch them out" of the drywall if I ever need them.

I am not sure how I feel about bolting into my concrete at this point, it still has that "new shop smell" to it. Any good ideas on how to get the stability? Maybe bolt to some sheet metal/plywood that I stand on when using it? I like the idea of the grit falling to the ground and not my hard to clean workbench.

As I layout my new shop, I find myself wondering if grinders, polishers, sanders should be on their own pedestals or mounted to a benchtop. Pro Pedestal: flexibility in location takes less space power cord can be better fixed out of the way Height can be adjusted easier Con Pedestal: may not be as stable as bench mount benches allow shelf storage underneath

I am planning out my new smithy. I know I am going to want some machine to cut stock with. I wonder if I want this chop saw or this bandsaw. I see that I will likely be pulling stock from a rack, dropping it on a long table shared between a wood radial arm saw and one of these machines. What advantage do you see to each of them? I am not as concerned about price as I am functionality and utility of each machine.

I have been thinking about this, and have moved my vices to a corner work bench. The forge is near the middle now. I have also put a rectangle under my anvil to show where the power hammer will go in four or five years. I figure I will be able to move the regular anvil nearer the door when that PH arrives. The forge is 6 feet from close wall. The workbenches and cuttoff table for the stock rack will be the same height as forge. Glue bottle represents a welder.

Fair enough, I should say what I am doing! I am only about a year into this, so far it has all been small artsy stuff. I would not expect to do any railings or anything that takes more than one hand to lift. So far, I have been doing wood mounted fold forming, switch plates in copper (fold formed also) lots of trinkets and animal head hooks. I tend to grind and finish the pieces on a wire wheel or with an angle grinder. I am mostly at the point of skill builders, am just starting with welding (forge and mig)

So, I will be breaking ground soon on a new 10x19 building. I am pouring a slab 10x28 for possible expansion if permits can be had in the future for the larger building. The only thing in the shop that can not move easily is the side draft chimney. I want to get the placement right from the beginning. Here is a scale drawing of one layout I have in mind, everything labeled. Other ideas follow (unlabeled, same symbols) Remember that I may be able to expand out the double doors in the future. I want to get an idea for potential future power hammer and anvil locations so that I can pour an isolation box in the cement for them now while it is easy. I am fairly certain I want the double doors where they are, but EVERYTHING is open for change except the square footage of the building. I think I want to keep the same side draft chimney I had before, but if people think I should go out the roof, I am open... I have a bit of woodworking equipment in the room, it is stuff that supports the kind of work I want to do.

Nice idea, but at 6-2 myself I am going to want at least 7' ceilings and once everything adds up, we would not be in code for height.

I have had problems with the anvil not being properly grounded in the first smithy, so I want to make sure it is part of the earth! Why do you think I should reverse?

http://www.browncowart.com/portfolio/cat/7/id/42 That one just looks plain fun!

Thank you all. I am convinced this is something I am not going to do. Now, how does one get a variance... :)